Tips & Tricks to help the Handloader

[torpedoman]

almost foolproof system; prime case set it in block primer up, when powder is added, set it back in mouth up, starting with primers up will prevent double charges and when interrupted (never happens right) when you put out the fire you'll know were you were at in the process.

[Lazermule]

almost foolproof system; prime case set it in block primer up, when powder is added, set it back in mouth up, starting with primers up will prevent double charges and when interrupted (never happens right) when you put out the fire you'll know were you were at in the process.

That's what I do if I'm not on my progressive...

[nodlenor]

almost foolproof system; prime case set it in block primer up, when powder is added, set it back in mouth up, starting with primers up will prevent double charges and when interrupted (never happens right) when you put out the fire you'll know were you were at in the process.

Why not go ahead and put the bullet in at this point? That's the way i do it. It's hard to double charge a case with the bullet installed.

[charles p]

When sizing cases, I use the white Lee sizing lube from a tube.  I put a dab on top of my left little finger and just touch each case neck to the lube.  When finished, I can push the unused lube back into the tube mouth.

[oldandslow]

I'm getting on in years and suffer from a bad case of CRS. To keep from making a mistake when reloading I have developed a routine. After sizing and priming each case is set in a MTM loading block. As I fill the cases with powder I set each loaded case in another loading block to keep them seperated. When I am loading powder charges I turn off the radio and also the ceiling fan. No distraction and no breeze to mess with the powder scale. If someone comes in I just quit loading until I'm alone. It seems to work for me. I've been loading for a long time and adopted this routine about 10 years ago. So far I've never blown up a gun or even had an over pressure load. 

[Lazermule]

almost foolproof system; prime case set it in block primer up, when powder is added, set it back in mouth up, starting with primers up will prevent double charges and when interrupted (never happens right) when you put out the fire you'll know were you were at in the process.

Why not go ahead and put the bullet in at this point? That's the way i do it. It's hard to double charge a case with the bullet installed.

Come to think of it, I do put the bullet in at this point.

[stimpylu32]

Heres one from PowPow on ajusting Lee powder Dippers to ajust your charge .

"Rather than cutting the dipper, consider dripping candle wax in the dipper to displace the volume you don't want to use.
Then you will be able to "tune" it by shaving a little wax out of the dipper with a screwdriver blade.
You will have more than one chance to get it right.
I use a wax-displaced dipper and a trickler to fill the pan on my balance scale"

stimpy

[Ready_Aim_Fire!]

Tip: I use  all Dillon Dies. My 38/357 dies were causing some problems when I load 148 gr HBWC's I was having a lot of problems with the swaged lead bullets deforming when seating and just wouldn't get the bullet far enough into the case without dinging a couple of cases. I disassembled the seat die and had a machinist friend make me up a flat seater that is chamfered on the edge, to replace the factory seater in the die. Stopped the problem. and now I get consistent rounds.
 I also have mostly carbide dies but I still lube the cases lightly with the spray One shot lube  Less mess and the cases don't have any greasy film.

[Ready_Aim_Fire!]

Good tip for sorting 9mm brass or any casing that are made in steel. I use an old speaker magnet to get out the steel cases. It seems S&B is using some brass coated steel casings.  that are berdan as well.


The colored sorting pans are not a bad investment if you collect brass from local ranges.

[lrrice]

I use different colored fingernail polish on the primers to designate loads for different guns.  Ex. pink on a .243 is for my daughters rifle or black on a 45/70 means its loaded with a soft lead bullet and 2400.  Also seals the primer if your worried about that.  When working up a load I write the info on each case with a permanent marker that way when I knock the cartridge box over and mix up them up, I know what they are.  Also after shooting it makes them easy to compare for pressure signs etc.

[Ready_Aim_Fire!]

great tip for eliminating that static that causes your powder to clump up and stick. DRYER SHEETS cut one into 1" strips hang inside your powder reservoir and you should not have any more issues with static cling........Unscented works best unless you like your ammo to smell PRETTY.............LOL

[Ready_Aim_Fire!]

I use different colored fingernail polish on the primers to designate loads for different guns.  Ex. pink on a .243 is for my daughters rifle or black on a 45/70 means its loaded with a soft lead bullet and 2400.  Also seals the primer if your worried about that.  When working up a load I write the info on each case with a permanent marker that way when I knock the cartridge box over and mix up them up, I know what they are.  Also after shooting it makes them easy to compare for pressure signs etc.

The other thing about nail polish it is a cheap way to seal your primers..... Just don't get caught using your wife favorite color.

[Dave in WV]

I copied this from another forum. This was posted by gun writer, Steve Timm. I can say I use his method with a .45 acp carbide die I had the top end bored through so even loaded mmo can be run through the die.
 
My Friends,

This is one of those dark, dusty corners of handloading. The information is too small for an article and, for some reason, it just never quite fits in.

Many years ago, I ran into a "logistics" article and the author pointed out that the .30-'06, .308 (7.62 NATO) and .45ACP all have in common the .473" rimless case head.

Later, I had some sticky loaded .30-'06 ammo and I hated the chore of tearing it all apart, FL sizing and reassembling. Then, a BRIGHT LIGHT went off in my head, "Why not see if I could resize the BASES by running the loaded ammo through a .45ACP tungsten/carbide die.

And I should mention here that the handgun dies, especially those made to reload ammo for autoloading pistols, have really great tight sizing units. In the t/c die, a ring of tungsten carbide is used and it is nice and tight.

Anyway, I ran one round of ammo through the tungsten/carbide die and tried it in my .30-'06. WOW, it fed like quicksilver ... the headspace was perfect and the swollen base was perfectly ironed out.

I cycled the rest of the ammo and tested for accuracy. No problem.

Since then, I've used this trick many, many times and it has saved my arse from the fire on numerous occasions.

Let Steve court heresy. Amongst the benchrest folks, it is "known" that cases eventually grow (from firing) and that a "bump die" is required to return the cases to the original shape. Bump dies work on the shoulder. Frankly, I believe a "Base die" would be way more appropriate ... and that is precisely what I use; a .45ACP tungsten-carbide sizing die to iron out the BASES of rifle cases based on the .473" rimless case head.

Is there any other cartridge that is commonly used that has such a common die? YUP, there is and I found it only because I needed it horribly.

Once, I ended up with a bunch of .223 Ackley handloads that would fit two of my .223 Ackley rifles, but would not close in the chamber of my third rifle.

Scrambling for help, I found that the .38 Special/.357 Magnum was close to the .223 case ... If anything, the .38 was just a snazzle too large. So, having a nice RCBS .38/.357 tungsten-carbide sizing die, I tried sizing some cases.

Friends, the manuals may tell you that the .223 cartridge base is smaller than the .38/.357, but in actual practice, the .38 t-c sizer just irons a little polished area on the .223 case web.

And I polished the base web areas of my 2,000 .223 Ackley loaded ammo in just a few hours. AND EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THE CASES EASILY FIT INTO THE RIFLE THAT WAS PREVIOUSLY A NON-CLOSER.

I shot every last cartridge the following weekend ... leaving many prairie dog widows and a few dead coyotes.

Now, lets take a look at what we know: the .45ACP tungsten-carbide die (the open type) will size the bases of any cartridge case based on the .30-'06/.308 ... and, my friends, that is a LOT of rounds ... and because we are concerned with the web area of the cases, it makes no diff if the case is Ackley or not. Also, we know that the .38 Special/.357 S&W Magnum sizing die, the open type with the tungsten-carbide ring, will iron-out the web area on any case based on the .222/223.

[Muddyboots]

Not sure if anyone has mentioned this before but old Pyrodex and Triple 777 plastic boxes are perfect as ammo boxes and or reloading blocks once you cut the tops off. The Pyrodex boxes are perfect for .357 or .38 spl ammo while the Triple 777 boxes with lids sliced off are great as reloading blocks.
Muddy