Mink

[Trapperboy25]

What is the best conibear for a mink?

[foxtail]

The one around his neck. :-D

Seriously. I think a strong 110 is best.

[OldCoon]

a 110.  manufacturer is unimportant.

[Mallard]

BMI magnums are a fine trap.  I think the magnum is only necessary for dry sets, but it never hurts to have them wet either. There is only a few dollars difference between a dozen regulars and a dozen magnums, regardless of brand. Some prefer a 120 for dry sets as well.

[MEtrapper]

I like  bridger #110 body grippers. I have always and will always use them

[trappnman]

I do think a plain, common #110 is a poor DRYLAND mink trap in that it doesn't kill quickly and big mink can and do get out of them. On many occasions I have had live mink in 110s set on dryt trails. More dead than alive of course, but still. I have a few #120s that I like in non water situations for mink. The two springs really puts them down. If setting in just about any water over 2 inches- any #110 will do.

[RdFx]

I use alot of 110s and 55s on dry land for mink and if set up properly will kill mink quickly.  I have all fine wires between triggers that are set up in an oval or round so trap goes off when minks head is entering trap not after he or she is half way thru.  The 55s are deadly and ive caught wild buck mink that  measured 37 inches fm nose to tail and they  died right away.  The trap jaws hit them right behind head just like 160s do coon and  its the kill zone.  All my traps are waxed but dipped would work too.  Anymore questions fire away.  My mink catch on land approaches 12 - 15 % of my total mink catch.

[trappnman]

I must set mine improperly then. Minks head is inside trap, but you can see easily how long he was alive in trap. Death is not anyways near instantaneous. This is in 110s- never used 55s.

Remember, I'm not talking about all moink or even a lot of mink- I'm saying big mink will not always expire immediately in a dryland 110- and I'll stick with that.

[Mallard]

Have to agree with Steve, as I too have seen a couple cases where a nice buck struck directly in the neck with a brand new regular jawed BMI 110, still showed signs of struggle (dry sets). I have never had this happen with the magnum styles. Twice is twice too many in my book, and for an additional $3-4 for a dozen, I don’t think the savings of buying a regular jaw justifies an acceptance of a non instant death for the Mink. Regular jaws work fine for bottom edges and rat dens/runs, but is not a good choice for a dry set. A 55, unless talking about the old Montgomery’s, are magnum jaws.

[RdFx]

ANy 110s that are weak i delegate to water or bottom edge sets and ive seen alot of 110s that are very weak.  It is up to the trapper to keep his equipment up to par so it performs  to the task he puts it too.  Like Steve does with his 175 Dukes on yotes.  I wouldnt be surprised to see a big buck mink squirm out of a weak 110 and go on his way a little pissed LOL  

[MEtrapper]

Does any one here use Duke #110 MAgnum Conis. How is there quaility, durabilty and killing power.

Thanks

[trappnman]

trust me, my 110s are in proper shape.  I'm not trying to change anyones belief- but as Mallard said- 1-2 a year is too many.  We are talking big MN/MI mink here rdfx. Do your mink turn white in winter....

[RdFx]

Gosh Steve how did you know that   :eek:    LOL

[trappnman]

[Bogmaster]

ME., just put some new Duke 110 mags on the shelf.They are strong springed and look like they would be excellant .I have used the 330 mags before with good results, I am just surprised that the Duke 110 mag is not a big seller at $9.00 a dozen cheaper than BMI I would think there would be a lot of interest in them.  Tom

[Mallard]

Never had a 110 duke mag in my hand Tom. I do know that I like the bell style trigger on my BMI's, and when I purchased them several years ago, Duke was getting bashed by the "people that know", so I never thought twice about it. I'm sure they're very comperable traps.