Help, need practical advice on quick cleaning/staining upgrade to old shotguns.

[mannyrock]

Dear Guys,

  I am an antique gun collector, so I know that it is absolutely a crime to take an antique and refinish or restain it, or even vigorously clean off the patina.

   But, I've got a situation that I think is a little different. 

   I have access to several antique (1850s to 1890s) Belgian and English side by sides, that are cheap models, damascus, and are totally and absolutely beat-up, and are not fit to ever shoot again (too loose), and have rust pocked barrels, covered with crud.  The stocks look like the've been refinished at least twice in the past, but with deep scratches, cracks and worn-through places.  Some of the guns have active red-rust, in flakes, etc., in various places.   Some look like they have hung over hot fireplaces for years, and have patches of "finish" that have buckled or bubbled up on the wood. 

   In other words, they are only fit for wallhangers.

   But, they have all of their parts, and nice brass furniture, and hand cut checkering, and all of the other interesting stuff that goes with those types of shotguns.

  Although these will be wallhangers, I want them to look like NICE wallhangers.  So, I am interested in a way to:

   1.   Vigorously scrub the stocks, with a cleanser or mix, to remove ALL of the old grime, black powder residue, oil, grease etc.  What product and technique should I use please?

   2.    Very lightly sand the stocks, primarily to get them smooth and uniform (without stripping the old finishes).   And then, applying one or two thin coats of some "one-step" walnut toned varnish or other non-polyurithane finish, to get them to a more pleasing uniform color.   What product and technique should I use please?

   3.    Very lightly "polish" the barrels, with a fine bronze or copper wool, and some type of rust killing oil, to give it a more uniform look, kill the rust, and smooth them up.  I would not re-blue or re-brown the barrels.  What product and technique should I use please?

   4.    Clean off the metal furniture and inlays (Yes, remove the now black patina on them), to show the nice metal work.  What product and technique should I use please?

   When I am done, they will still be wallhangers, but will be something that the average person would consider fairly nice to look at and appreciate, with the 19th century handi-work easy to see.   

  Right now, these things look absolutely terrible, like old garden tools kept in a tool shed for 50 years.

  Thanks for all information.

Mannyrock

[Swampman]

I do guns like this all the time for folks.  I go over everything with 0000 steel wool and then put several thin coats of linseed oil on the wood.  If I'm in a hurry I use satin finish tung oil.  My customers are aleays pleased.

[gunnut69]

Scrub the metal work with 00 or 000 steel wool and WD40. The bores can be cleaned with 00 steel wool wrapped around a brush and spun in a drill motor with WD40 to enhace the cutting and protect the results.. WD40 will dry on it's own but a good waxing will likely give the bet results.. A wax intended for marble and containing carnuba is the best. They dry very hard and quite water proof. Dust can be removed with a simple cloth and the piece returned to it's wall duties. If you wish a more agressive cleaning a fine wire wheel on the metal will remove rust bown to bare metal which can then be coated with OxphoBlue or PlumBrown(my preference). If recoating the stock to even color a coat of solvent based stain can be used. These stains will penetrate into the remaining finish and when covered with more finish look quite well indeed...

[mannyrock]

Dear Guys,

  Thanks for the info.  And, I welcome more.

  Gunnut, I know what oil based stain is, and I know what water based stain is, but what in the world is solvent based stain?   Can you give me a brand name please??

  Thanks,

  Mannyrock

[gunnut69]

Pilkington is the brand I use and they're sold by Brownells.. They don't raise the grain as water based stains are want to do and the penetration is excellant.

[Rangr44]

I haven't used any sandpaper, or sanded a stock in over 10yrs, except for repaired areas, since I started cleaning off the old finish via following the can directions of Formby's Furniture Refinisher - which I get at either wallyworld or Benny's Home & Auto (chain).



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