how often do you have to mess with side to side movement when fitting

[bajabill]

I have a barrel that has lots of side to side movement (factory fitted) and was wondering if this is commonly encountered for those who fit their own barrels.  I read Fred's instructions for bonding shims to the frame at 4 seat points, but since I swap barrels, I need to bond to the barrel.  Are there any other solutions to this problem?  Other than this movement, the barrel fits tight to the receiver face.

[Cottonwood]

I just fitted the 204 Ruger barrel that I got from another member here.  At first it did not lock up, and a gunsmith neighbor helped me do what I needed to do with a flat file on the lug catch.  Even strokes, just a bit at a time.  I have no side to side movement at all, and could not be happier about it.  I wish you well in your situation, as that would really be a PITB situation for me.

[quickdtoo]

If the barrel has side to side movement, it's not fitted properly, it should be tight enough to the standing breech that it can't move, even tho it may look like it fits tight, a feeler gauge will reveal how tight it actually is. A properly fitted barrel won't move, if it's factory fitted, it needs to go back to H&R for repair, they're replace the barrel since they don't shim.

Tim

[Jimbo47]

Note to Remington employess who fit barrels:

Please read, Please!

1.  Check barrel to make sure it locks up properly and has the correct amount of clearance between chamber and standing breech face.

2.   Check for proper latch engagement between latch and latch shelf.

3.   Check for side to side play.

4.   Visually check for burrs, dings, fit and finish.

5.    Do at least the minimum of the above before releasing the barrel to be shipped to the unsuspecting customer whom you work for!

 

[bajabill]

it was bought and fitted June/July 2007, wonder how accepting the new group will be.  I dont know if I want to deal with it yet.  By the time I pay shipping etc. I may just sell this and buy something else. 

[Brett]

When you say you have side to side movement are you talking about when the action is open or when it is closed?  I had a 20ga. that was solid as a rock when closed but felt like it was going to fall off of the frame when the action was open.  It functioned just fine but I did not like the feel of it so I sold it off.     

[bajabill]

I probably should not have used the word "lots", thats not equally interpreted by all.

When my barrel is locked, I can hear and feel movement when I shake the gun.  It is not the release lever.  I can move the barrel from side to side by twisting it.  This barrel exhibits this behavior to a much greater extent than other barrels I have fitted to this frame.  It is a 25-06.  I have never found a good load for this barrel.  I also have had a case head separation in a couple of firings (first firing of the brass was a factory load and I now do not load to max levels for it) so I do think it may not be a tightly fitted barrel.  There is no visible gap between the barrel and frame. 

[Jimbo47]

As long as there is any play at all in the barrell you will never be able to find a good load for the gun.

Hitting the paper at all would be a major accomplishment with even a slightly loose barrell.

Have you tried shimming?

I think Brett is talking about the 20 gauge barrell that I bought off of him a short while back and he is right about it being a little loose, but I shimmed the lug pin and it locks up tight as a vault with no movement open or closed.

A shotgun barrell is more forgiving and can be used effectively with a slightly loose fit, but not so with a rifle.

[bajabill]

I tooled around with this yesterday, was able to close on some feeler gages and also wrapped the pin with tape and was able to close the action and it was much tighter.  I think .002 shim will greatly help this fitting.  I made the shim, held it in place, but cant bring myself to load it up with glue 

Lots of second thoughts, I cant help but think this barrel is more valuable if it is unshimmed should I decide to just sell it.  I also have a 243 that was fitted at the same time that will accept a layer of tape on the pin, but this barrel does not have the side to side play as the 25-06.  Ironically, I just bought a savage 243 barrel, stainless 26" flutted, so I may jump ship on that caliber. 

I know its not an absolute, but, fundamentally, I think the HR single shot is not the ideal platform for full pressure, greatly necked down cartridges (including 243 and 25-06). 

[dieselten]

you do not have to glue the shim in place.  you can just wrap the pin on the frame and remove it when going to another caliber.  brownells makes stainless steel shim stock in a variety pack that works perfectly,  cut to fit,  every barrel fits like a bank vault!

[bajabill]

Well, this barrel is off of the selling block.  I bonded the shim and finally got out to test the results. 

The range work started shaky, but I was able to put 5 shots in a 1.25" circle, so I call this a success.  I would have been happy with 3 holes in any sort of a pattern.

[Jimbo47]

Way to go!   I've shimmed a few barrels and they haven't failed me yet!

    

you do not have to glue the shim in place.  you can just wrap the pin on the frame and remove it when going to another caliber.  brownells makes stainless steel shim stock in a variety pack that works perfectly,  cut to fit,  every barrel fits like a bank vault!

I've done the same with a couple barrels that locked up fairly tight, but had just the slightest amount of play, maybe .001, and it worked fine, just completely wraping the pin with the shim stock, as I tried to bond with epoxy and the fit was too tight to lock up.

The nice thing about the feeler gauges is you can leave them attached to the gauge and using a screwdriver and pressure from your thumb, place the screw driver next to the gauge and while applying pressure to the guage blade against the screw driver and with a pulling motion you can put a perfect curl into the feeler blade and it will hold a memory but remain springy.   Do that a couple times and the curl gets tighter, and then just use a pair of scissors to trim it to fit all the way around the frame pin, making sure it doens't overlap itself, which will cause a bad fit.   I've got several preformed extras in my drawer, and when I get a barrel I just pop the shim on the pin and try out the fit.  It's either a go or no go!

Also works well if you decide to later sell the barrel and still have it in excellent condition and not tampered with.

I think where you need to actually bond a shim is when you have a lot of slop or side to side play, and you have more space for the epoxy to form and bond without getting squeezed out!

[torpedoman]

my 204 was loose side to side i just epoxied feeler gauge shims on the underlug same thing no gap but you could feel movement when shook.