20 gauge max. barrel gap?

[zippy7]

Hello all,
First, thanks for your good & helpful info on these forums. New NEF Pardner owner here, two of 'em - 12 & 20. The 12 is tight, no light when locked, but I can get a .006" (maybe even .007") feeler gauge to close on the 20. It was popping open about half of the time when fired (got the red marks of initiation on my forehead) but after a little grinding on the release latch lever it stays closed with some latch lever play now. Seems to shoot fine - should I bother with shimming to tighten up the barrel gap or just enjoy it as is?
Thanks in advance,
Steven

[Spanky]

You should always make sure the barrel closes tight to the breech face before you touch the latch shelf.


Spanky

[spikehorn]

Faqs state it should close tight on .002 and snug on a .001 feeler gauge. always do the under lug first then if you have to do the latch shelf you should. I just did my first barrel fit and didn't have to touch the latch shelf.

[Spanky]

Faqs state it should close tight on .002 and snug on a .001 feeler gauge. always do the under lug first then if you have to do the latch shelf you should. I just did my first barrel fit and didn't have to touch the latch shelf.

+1 to what Spike said. Alot of times when you fit the underlug the latch will not need to be touched.



Spanky

[zippy7]

Hey guys - maybe I wasn't clear enough. I only worked on the thumb lever release gizmo thingie - the latch lever that you press with your thumb to release the lock. There was an earlier discussion about removing a bit of material from the lever if it had no play where it rests against the receiver when locked. That's the only thing I did and the lever now has a bit of play when locked (the thumb lever didn't have any play before, latched or open) and seems to allow the gun to lock more securely so it doesn't pop open upon firing. My question was, do I need to bother with shimming to reduce the barrel gap or is it alright to use it with the barrel gap if it seems to be shooting fine and isn't popping open when fired? What happens if you use one of these shotguns with a gap as large as mine? I've spent many hours scouring your forum and am asking questions that, for whatever reason (call me stupid), I didn't come away with the answers for. There is so much information here, over years of posting, that I'm having a tough time locating the specific info I need - even after spending hours using the search. I also don't know exactly what you mean when you say things like "work the underlug" and "do the latch shelf". Remember, these things are new and foreign to some guys. I also can't grasp the concept of the gap because the barrel is too tight (). It has slop between the barrel and receiver breech face, including some side to side play when closed and locked. I've tried a temporary brass shim at the pin and that does tighten the lock up. This is an untouched gun that a woman won as a Ducks Unlimited door prize, 1991 manufacture and has had only around 50 shells fired through it. If anyone has the time or inclination to help lift the veil and spell things out for a new guy, t'would be much appreciated.

[quickdtoo]

Read the barrel fitting info in the FAQs, that should give point you in the right direction. As for the gap, no gap is ideal, but a shotgun isn't as critical as a rifle and you can get away with a less than optimal fit.

Tim

[spikehorn]

Does the shim reduce the gap? Pesonally I would try and get the gap down to the recomended .001-.002. the underlug is rectangle piece on the bottom of the barrel that fits onto the pivot pin. The latch shelf is the angled part on the underlug that is right below the breach this is what the barrel latch latches onto. read barrel fitting for beginers in the faqs it really does have all the info you are looking for.

[zippy7]

Yep, the trial pivot pin shim makes the lockup nice and snug - it's made from a .22 brass pounded flat. The tempered feeler gauge shimstock is a clever idea. If it ever comes down to working on the latch shelf, is the goal to remove a bit of material, keeping the same angle, or do you change the angle of the shelf a little? Have read the fitting FAQs a few times and will do so again. Thanks for the input, lads.

[spikehorn]

It is my interpretation of the faqs that you want to keep the same angle. By smoking it as stated and closing it it will show you where it needs some taken off if any, the spots where the smoke has been taken off when you closed it are the high spots that can be filled down with a stone. If with the shim in place it is licking up and staying locked when you shoot it you may not need to do anything with the latch shelf. By the way that's a brilliant idea for a shim.