9mm mold....9mm advice?

[45-70.gov]

been loading revolvers  and  bottle neck rounds for  a while

NEVER  A 9MM  OR ANY  AUTO  or anything head spacing on the mouth

i like to shoot cast  cause  i am  cheap

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=0000690574
what  is you opinion  of this mold and  bullet design
looks like a good bullet to  me  as  i prefer  the  WFN shape
but  not sure of its feeding qualities


i know LBT makes the best  but  i don't shoot 9mm enough to justify  the $$$

we have  hi-point carbines 9mm
              ruger  LCP  .380
              M11  full auto  9mm

also  i made  a ''dummy'' round  with  my  180 WFN 357 slug
gas  check  with no gas check.........little room for powder
but it  is a good looking bullet

my  plain based 357 slung were  too  long......even  the 158 grainers

who sells  a mold  for  the  147  that i have seen  in some  subsonic bullets
i prefer to stay  sub sonic  but not a priority
also  heavier is slower  and  less likely to lead in  the carbine
but will heavy work in  the .380?


             

[Dand]

I would think for the arms you list it would be best to get a round nose bullet, especially that full auto -tho I have no such experience. Before buying a mould I'd suggest you buy a few samples of cast bullets and try them out in your guns. You might be able to get someone to provide you with a small amount just to try. I haven't used cast in 9mm but I have used the Speer swaged. In my Taurus -Beretta 92 knock off I got a lot of leading with most loads I tried. I also had to learn about taper crimps. I found if I over did the taper crimp, my bullets would actually be looser, they could be turned in the case. So I never tried cast - but at today's prices I would. Swaged can be too soft but cast can be a lot harder and should be less of a problem with leading and crimping. I do use quite a bit of cast bullets in my Walther P99 .40 S&W. They work very well and little leading. I have stuck with conventional autoloader styles, RN or auto styled SWC.

[Lloyd Smale]

most accurate all around 9mm bullets ive found are the rcbs 120 and 115 round nose. Make sure your getting the ones without the shoulder. They have a model with a shoulder that is suppose to cut cleaner holes in the target but that bullet is a dud.

[1sourdough]

 I've loaded some lead RN bullets for 9mm that worked fine(purchased bullets). I did recently buy a Lee RN 45 cal 'TL' bullet mold to try out next spring. I know a round nose isn't very sexy looking but It's one more thing in your court for reliability. How about a Lee RN TL mold for the 9mm?

[blpenn66502]

I'm not clear why you are looking at .358 dia revolver molds instead of .356 dia molds designed and profiled for the 9mm.  The .358 mold you selected has the crimp groove to high I believe (although with the taper crimp used for 9mm you are not tied to a crimp groove) and I'm not sure about that short radius/blunt nose feeding reliability.  However, for less than $20 if you already have everything else you need, you'll know for sure or if nothing else, have something for your 38 special or 357.

If you are going to cast for 9mm, you ought to look at purchasing a 4 or 6 cavity mold in my opinion.  Also, if you want a blunt nose look at one of the truncated cone type designs.  Lyman's 356402 mold was reportedly designed for reliable feeding in the 9mm P08.

As for 147 gr - Lyman and RCBS both make molds with a flat nose.  No, I doubt a 147gr would not work in the 380, the nose is probably too long to stay under max OAL and the heaviest data I've seen for the 380 is 121 gr LRN in Lyman's manual.  With 95gr lead a standard weight for the 380, a jump to 147gr is more than a 50% increase.

[Savage]

I like the 124-125 gr LRN in 9mm. Feeds in everything. I'd sure get a good lube and fire short bursts with the FA. If you really heat it up, leading is a certainty.
Lloyd, I experienced tumbling with the 9mm bullet with the shoulder. Is that the same problem you had?
Savage

[45-70.gov]

THE FULL AUTO  DOES GET HOT  1200 RPM
it is very reliable  tho...and  i don't shoot it much

your  right  that is i revolver  slug  i didn't  notice

is  there  any reloading data  to be found on  180g  9mm??

how  stupid would it be to start  with 2g  bullseye 
and work  up  until the bolt opened on the  hi-point carbine??

[Graybeard]

You should NEVER use lead bullets in a full auto and for that matter really are pushing your luck with reloads in one. Both greatly increase the liklihood of a bullet stuck in the barrel followed by yet another or two down the barrel before you can get off the trigger.

If you are gonna use reloads in a full auto at least be smart enough to use good jacketed bullets only.

[Savage]

True, lead bullets are not a good choice for any full auto. I have run a couple hundred through a Sten without really bad leading. That was over an afternoon, and no long frequent bursts.
Fortunately, should you have a squb, the bolt will not recock to fire the next round. It's always a good idea to check the bore anytime you have a failure to eject, or a round that sounds different regardless of action type. If I were loading for a full auto, I'd load jacketed bullets for sure.
Savage