40 cal advice *Pics added*

[patw]

I am getting my rolling block rebarelled in 40 cal.  I have to choose  between 40-70BN, 40-70SS, 40-82 and 40-90SS.  I am thinking of going with the 40-82, because it seems at first sight that brass and dies are easier to come by, but would like to hear any suggestions.

[mcwoodduck]

What about 416 Barns.
45-70 necked to 416.
brass is easy and dies are available.
You can load it for the rolling block with lead slugs.
Molds are available in the .416 size.

[patw]

That would be an intersting one, but it is not one of my options.  The barrel is 40 cal, and the choices I was given were 40-50 BN, 40-50 SS, 40-65, 40-70 BN, 40-70 SS, 40-82, or 40-90 SS.  I was thinking it would be fun to have some exotic caliber, but  looking at the ballistics there is not that much difference between all those calibers.  There is also the advantage of availability of dies and brass for the 40-65.  Cartridges of the world says that you should be able to make 40-50BN from 45-70 brass, so that is also a possibility.

[Lurker]

Why do something too exotic, unless you just like being different?

I just acquired a 40-65 caliber rifle. It's a Browning High Wall BPCR. I chose the 40-65 because of the availabillity of factory brass from Starline, or using 45-70 brass, to make the 40-65 brass.

The 40-65 makes a fine BPCR silhouette caliber, as well as a fine Deer or Elk caliber, hunting rifle...

Bill

[StrawHat]

Of those options, take the 40-65.  ballistically they are all similar and brass dies and etc are more readily available in 40-65.

So is reloading information.

[patw]

I was tempted to go with the 40-50 but in a moment of sanity I finally decided to go with the 40-65.  Dave at Lone Star Rifle is building it and seemed interested in building the 40-50, but when he found out I would be shooting  "that stinky smokeless powder",  I think he got disgusted and he urged me to go with the 40-65.  On the bright side, the rifle should be ready in a few weeks.  Can't wait.

[drdougrx]

Please post some pics when you get it!!! 

[NickSS]

The 40-65 is an excellent choice and the easiest of the lot as far as brass and ease of obtaining it.  I have owned and shot a 40-50 SBN and a 40-90 SBN.  I also have a friend who swears by the 40-70 SS and another friend who has a 40-60 Maynard.  All are close together in velocity except when using black powder (Which I mostly use).  I had trouble getting desired accuracy out of the BN cartridges and eventually sold the rifles.  I have three 40-65 rifles (Shiloh No.1, C. Sharps High Wall and an original Remington RB target rifle that was relined to 40-65.  They all shoot excellently with both black and smokeless loads.  I also killed an elk two years ago with my Sharps so the caliber works for that as well.

[patw]

Dave called today and the rifle should be ready next week.  The reloading equipment will be in tomorrow.  Any suggestions for good starting loads?  I will be using cast 395 gr bullets.

[patw]

Rifle came in this wee, nice Christmas present.  Dave reblued the action.  The 30" barrel is heavy, tapering from 1 1/4 down to 1 inch at the muzzle.  I got a globe front sight and a tang sight, and since I am not too confident of my shooting I got the blocks installed in case I decide to put a scope on it.  I went out and shot it, and the groups were not too great, two or three inches at a hundred, but with iron sights and on the first reloads, I am happy with that.  Also, my bullet casting abilities are less than perfect.  I tried two loads with 400 gr bullets, one with 4227 and one with Trailboss.  As nice as trailboss is in the 45-70, it was disappointing in the 40-65.  I will go out and try different loads this week end.




Edit:  I just got hell from my wife for posting the pictures.  She says the gun is ugly because the stocks do not match.  That sounds like I have my excuse to get a butstock.

[NickSS]

Nice rifle.  Try some loads with Accurate Arms 5744 powder.  Start at around 22 to 25 gr and a 400 gr bullet.

[FredWT]

Very nice rifle you got there. I have a nice Uberti 1885 High Wall in .40-65. Really enjoy the caliber. Brass is easy to make out of .45-70. Use a sizing wax for your case forming to avoid oil dents then trim the case. They will be longer than max length after forming.

[patw]

I bypassed the case forming step and  bought some starline brass.  I have been having fun shooting the rifle.  I have tried several loads and been getting 2 or so inch groups at 100.  I feel that I could get better groups than with iron sights, so....   here is the rifle with its new Malcolm 6x scope.  I was hoping to go try it after work today, but it sounds like I have to deal with frozen pipes instead.  We are not supposed to have this problem in Louisiana, what with global warming and all Algore has been telling us.

[bubba.50]

when you get yer new buttstock, how much ya want for the old one? just askin', bubba.

[patw]

There is a reason I  do not show the whole buttstock.  It looks like it was cut, then a piece was glued on, then a recoil pad added.  It is butt ugly.  It may be a while till I get around to getting a decent buttstock and installing it, but if and when I get to it, you can have the old stock.

[leadman]

I have a Pedersoli RB Creedmore in 40 -65. I shoot the Lyman 400 gr. Snover bullet with 23 grs. of 5744. On a calm day this is good for 3" or less groups at 200 yards with iron sights (mid-range vernier rear, globe front).

Another bullet that shoots really well is the 265gr LFN cast bullet from Cast Performance. I bought these for my 41 mag Ruger Super BH Hunter but it doesn't like them.
If you buy these get several hundred so you can sort them by weight. They vary about 4 grains in a box of 100. I use 25grs of 5744 behind these.

Surplus WC872 works well for a lower velocity load. Pretty much duplicates black powder velocity. Even smokes about the same.

These loads are all in the older Accurate loading manual, but check for updates on-line.

[rhbrink]

Something that could help with Starline brass is to aneal the brass it's usually very hard and won't fire-form to your chamber easily. Somethimes it takes 4 to 5 reloadings to get it formed enough to seal and generally you won't get great accuracy until that happens, my 2 cents worth anyway.

[patw]

Thanks for the advice on loads and anealing.   Still learning, I can use all the advice i can get.
Update, the Malcolm scope is a real piece of crap.  No complaints about the optics themselves, but the rings are made out of soft metal.  I was having trouble getting the scope to hold, it would wiggle after a few shots, and somehow while I was adjusting the eye relief, the rear ring felt loose.  Turns out the ring screw was stripped.  I finally got around to ordering a buttstock yesterday fromTreebone,  We were discussing the stock style and when the owner found out about the scope, he seemed to know about the quality of the product.  Apparently I am not the only one having trouble with that Malcolm scope.  It is made in China.  The ones  made by MVA are supposed to be good, but over three times the price.  I was trying to save a few bucks, big mistake.  I am now looking a Unertl or Lyman.  Also had trouble with the tang sight coming loose, just a loose set screw, but still a pain.  I should have spent the money and got a vernier sight.  When I look back, it would have been a lot cheaper to  get a rolling block already set up.  Lots of shouldas.