Author Topic: Ruger Cap&Ball revolver question  (Read 1454 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline mitchellbuilding

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Member
  • *
  • Posts: 12
Ruger Cap&Ball revolver question
« on: February 08, 2010, 02:34:56 PM »
how much is a new in box ruger old army (i think old army) worth, how much can I expect to get for it used on resale if I dont like it,  guy claims they are hard to find but I dont have a clue, I have several older ruger center fire rifles and several newer ones, and they aint what they used to be for sure, when did they stop making BP revolvers? what kind of group will they shoot at 25 yards? are they any better than the Ubert's & Piea's or are they all about the same, are there any convertable cylinders for the ruger?

Offline Flash

  • Trade Count: (82)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2285
  • Gender: Male
Re: Ruger Cap&Ball revolver question
« Reply #1 on: February 08, 2010, 03:57:48 PM »
The Old Army guns go for around $450 in the box. The stainless guns around $500. Ruger stopped the Old Army in late 07' or early 08'. I can't recall which one. They are what all others are judged by. When they were proof tested, the cylinders were filled with Alliant Bullseye and after seating lead round bals and firing, the gun and cylinder were fine. I wouldn't even try that with a Super Blackhawk. A cylinder is made to shoot the 45 colt cartridge in the Old Army but I wouldn't call it a convertible however, there is now a 45 ACP cylinder available so I guess a convertible, it could very well be. Accuracy is terrific with round balls!!!!
What doesn't kill us, makes us stronger!

Offline Flint

  • Moderator
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1053
Re: Ruger Cap&Ball revolver question
« Reply #2 on: February 08, 2010, 04:03:29 PM »
Both Kirst and R&D make a 45 Colt conversion cylinder for the ROA.  I have the R&D, they work fine.  They are easy to load & unload, and if you practice, it's probably faster than punching them out and loading one at a time in the Blackhawk.  You can also carry loaded spare cylinders in a pouch and really speed things up.
Flint, SASS 976, NRA Life

Offline mitchellbuilding

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Member
  • *
  • Posts: 12
Re: Ruger Cap&Ball revolver question
« Reply #3 on: February 09, 2010, 02:36:31 PM »
Thats all good to here, any recomendations on mixing a little smokless powder in with pyrodex, I'm gonna find out just what kind of pressures they will hold

Offline Rebel-1

  • Trade Count: (3)
  • Avid Poster
  • **
  • Posts: 101
  • Gender: Male
Re: Ruger Cap&Ball revolver question
« Reply #4 on: February 09, 2010, 04:18:41 PM »
My recommendation is NO smokeless powder in the BP cylinder. You can use it in the .45 LC conversion cylinder though.

Offline coyotejoe

  • Trade Count: (4)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2937
  • Gender: Male
Re: Ruger Cap&Ball revolver question
« Reply #5 on: February 10, 2010, 03:05:35 AM »
Thats all good to here, any recomendations on mixing a little smokless powder in with pyrodex, I'm gonna find out just what kind of pressures they will hold

Recommendation: DON'T DO IT!!! VERY BAD IDEA!! If you mix smokeless with Pyrodex or mix any two powders they will not behave like either one alone. Results can be totally unpredictable and you have no idea what sort of pressures your mixture is producing until the gun BLOWS. You might as well grind up a little dynamite and shoot that, in fact that would probably be safer! BUT DON'T TRY THAT EITHER!!
The story of David & Goliath only demonstrates the superiority of ballistic projectiles over hand weapons, poor old Goliath never had a chance.

Offline Redhawk1

  • Life time NRA Supporter.
  • GBO Supporter
  • Trade Count: (78)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 10748
  • Gender: Male
Re: Ruger Cap&Ball revolver question
« Reply #6 on: February 10, 2010, 04:50:02 AM »
Thats all good to here, any recomendations on mixing a little smokless powder in with pyrodex, I'm gonna find out just what kind of pressures they will hold

Recommendation: DON'T DO IT!!! VERY BAD IDEA!! If you mix smokeless with Pyrodex or mix any two powders they will not behave like either one alone. Results can be totally unpredictable and you have no idea what sort of pressures your mixture is producing until the gun BLOWS. You might as well grind up a little dynamite and shoot that, in fact that would probably be safer! BUT DON'T TRY THAT EITHER!!

I have to agree. <<<<<DO NOT DO IT>>>>
If  you're going to make a hole, make it a big one.
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
Only two defining forces have ever offered to die for you,
Jesus Christ and the American G. I.
One died for your soul, the other for your freedom

Endowment Life Member of the NRA
Life Member NA

Offline mitchellbuilding

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Member
  • *
  • Posts: 12
Re: Ruger Cap&Ball revolver question
« Reply #7 on: February 10, 2010, 01:56:29 PM »
OK, I'll hold off for now on the IMR3036, I just got it paid for, and it won't ship untill thursday, maybe arrive on sat or monday, any recomendations on powders? anything cleaner than pyrodex? I have'nt shot BP in almost 20 years,
       Any suggestions on primer's ? size? brand? i read something about wads instead of covering the  end of cyclinder chambers with anything to prevent crossfire,  I will be going to gander mountian before the ruger BP gun gets here, so anything that you guys can help me pick out before the owners manual arrives will be real helpful and appreceited,
             Any good inexpensive powder flask that anyone knows of, I ended up after shipping having a whopping $590.00 in this thing,that tapped me out and topped moma off, How much more money will I have to spend before I am ready to shoot?  how much will it cost me per shot? what size ball is most accurate? are there different weights of the same size? if this thing will really shoot quarters at 25 yrds I will love it, I have a bunch of center fire guns and am aware of the differance between two exactly alike shooting very different, generally if they shoot poorly I sell them and keep the good ones,
              I sold my only handgun a few months back and this will be the weapon that goes in the night stand drawer beside my bed, does the hammer rest on the primmer? should I leave one empty?

Offline madcratebuilder

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Member
  • *
  • Posts: 95
Re: Ruger Cap&Ball revolver question
« Reply #8 on: February 11, 2010, 04:36:39 AM »
Real black powder is what I prefer.  Any of the subs well work, 777 is 15% hotter by volume.

Offline P.A. Myers

  • GBO Supporter
  • Trade Count: (65)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1344
Re: Ruger Cap&Ball revolver question
« Reply #9 on: February 12, 2010, 12:28:16 AM »
FFFF GOEX, real black powder, better in everyway. Handle and store it carefuly. 777 is the best 'replica' powder, pricey tho. Mixing powders is beyond foolish.
“Never give in, never give in, never; never; never; never - in nothing, great or small, large or petty -
never give in except to convictions of honor and good sense”
 Winston Churchill

Offline beerbelly

  • Trade Count: (6)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1625
Re: Ruger Cap&Ball revolver question
« Reply #10 on: February 12, 2010, 12:45:38 PM »
You put smokless powder in that thing and you will lose your gun and hopfully no more than your hand, but I would not bet on it.
              Beerbelly

Offline ronbow

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 271
  • Gender: Male
Re: Ruger Cap&Ball revolver question
« Reply #11 on: February 16, 2010, 01:40:03 AM »
I use 30g 777 pellets with a .457 ball for target and 35g 777 loose with a .457 REAL conical when toting my ROA during Muzzle loader season. Both shoot well but the ball appears to be somewhat more accurate in side 50 yds.