Test rifle: Knight Original Disc Magnum Blued 26" barrel
After spending three 8 hour days, hundreds of shots fired, numerous cleanings, and close to $250 worth of various projectiles, I can honestly say I know what works in my rifle. I used 100 grains of 777 pellets or 90-110 of loose 777 during my accuracy tests. CCI and Ferderal 209 primers.
The bottom line:
My goal was to find a method of loading that would be accurate with a swabed bore and a once/twice fired bore. No fouling shot in other words.
Most of the best known projectiles (with gold plated prices to match) were infact the most accurate. I will not mention them because they might get jealous. Matter of fact with 95 grains of loose powder and the CCI primers I shot some 1/4" groups at 100 yards but only after the bore was fouled after a few shots without cleaning.
The virdict:
100 grains of 777 pellets
Federal 209 primer
The ugliest, cheapest, green hornady sabots with .429 300 grain XTP
Snap a cap or two or fouling shot.
Swap bore with presoaked patches run both sides
Swap bore with dry T/C patch run both sides
Load
Repeat for each shot
This load procedure produced 1-1/4" groups @ 100 yards. Not the most accurate but the sabot and bullet fit was just right. The next shot with a fouled bore was only 1/2" higher at 50 yards. With most of the others the followup shot from a clean bore was as much as 4-6" higher. The fit is the key. The sabot was still tight with a clean bore but loose enough that a short starter was not needed with a fouled bore for the next few shots. Hope this helps some beginners. If a fouling shot is your bag I liked the Dead Centers and my favorite the packaged Nosler orange sabots with 300 grain bullet.
AMEN!
The scope was mounted using WARNE mounts and quick detach rings. Each time I pulled the breech plug for cleaning I removed the scope to check for repeated zero. Just make sure that you tighten the levers with equal pressure right at the point were they start to get snug.
I experienced "ZERO" problems, no pun intended.
