Author Topic: gunstock blanks  (Read 774 times)

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Offline Benaiah

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gunstock blanks
« on: March 27, 2010, 11:15:01 AM »
 I recently acquired some cherry logs from a friend that needed a cherry tree cut down on his property. We cut it into 4-5' logs, and they are in my garage. What dimensions should I have a sawmill cut them to get some gunstock pieces? How should they be cut to get the best grain?
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Offline Keith L

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Re: gunstock blanks
« Reply #1 on: March 27, 2010, 01:45:26 PM »
there is very little grain in cherry.  It carves well, and turns well, but I don't know if it will handle recoil etc. in a gunstock.
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Offline trotterlg

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Re: gunstock blanks
« Reply #2 on: March 27, 2010, 06:07:44 PM »
Wax the ends of them to keep them from splitting and worry about cutting them in about 2 years.  Larry
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Offline Rangr44

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Re: gunstock blanks
« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2010, 08:41:02 AM »
Don't seal the grain ends of the logs with an auto or home paste wax.

If your can't find/afford a good log sealer like Anchorseal, get a can or two of customer-returned (cheap) exterior latex paint from a nearby Home Cheapo or Lowe's and use that.

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Offline gunnut69

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Re: gunstock blanks
« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2010, 06:24:52 PM »
I always used auto undercoat..in a spray can but any sealer should work.. I never tried car wax but used a carnuba product meant for marble counter tops and it seems to have worked just fine. Straight cuts (no forks or knots) should be cut quarter sawn if possible. It's not likely they will produce any figure but they may have a little fiddleback.. and I have seen a few with birdseyes...don't hold your breath on that one though. Forks and knots should be sawn so the center cut is roughly 4 inches thick and thru the center of any fork or knot.  Cherry is a great stock wood but a bit bland and a little heavier tha black walnut..
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Offline LONGTOM

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Re: gunstock blanks
« Reply #5 on: March 29, 2010, 03:39:56 AM »
If this was a live tree when you cut it I believe it will be several years before it will dry if left only to air dry (which is the best way)!
If you can cut your blanks and stack them up near a tin roof they will dry a lot faster.
The tin roof will concentrate the heat.
Make sure you use narrow strips of wood to separate the blanks so air can get all around them.
Even with doing this I believe it will still take at least three years to dry at that thickness.
Like said, do seal the ends to avoid cracking.
If the tree was twisted or had some bends in it you may well get some grain.
If it was straight don't be disappointed if there isn't much.
After you cut the blanks, apply a little water to it to bring out the color and any grain that may be there.
It will give you an idea what it may look like after it is finished.
Good luck.



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