Author Topic: Handi & Bipod (Read 1423 times)

bikerbeans · « **on:** June 12, 2010, 03:59:41 PM »

Hi All,

I have search online and found a couple of bipod setups for the handi. Anyone want to share their experience with a handi and bipod and any reccommendations regarding brand, installation etc. would be much appreciated. The gun I am working up will weigh in the 13 to 14 pound range.

BB

oldsoldja · « **Reply #1 on:** June 12, 2010, 04:25:55 PM »

I bought a couple of these and am pleased with them. They install quickly with a thumbscrew that when tightened it brings two pins in a clamping action to the hole in the sling screw.
http://cgi.ebay.com/TMS-Shooting-Rock-Mount-Bipod-Bi-pod-9-13-Pivot-/380241012256?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5888216620

PowPow · « **Reply #2 on:** June 12, 2010, 04:34:18 PM »

I have this one:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=132109
I like the clean lines of it compared to the bipods with large exposed springs.

Did not like it on my Handi; it was awkward to reload.
Like it on my bolt gun and ruger no 1.

Mac11700 · « **Reply #3 on:** June 12, 2010, 04:56:24 PM »

I picked up the cheapish one over at Wally World to try out..It doesn't swivel but seems very solid on the varmint forearm to me. I will be trying it out just as soon as mother nature and my work schedule allow me too.I might get lucky in the morning if I can time it right..supposed to have a 3 hour window tomorrow morning..and am keeping my fingers crossed the weather man is correct.

Mac

myarmor · « **Reply #4 on:** June 12, 2010, 04:57:13 PM »

I use a Bi-Pod a lot, and with my handis I have mounted it close, very close, to the the frame and have even modified a Survivor forearm, pretty much cut it down about half the length and it worked very well. Though I haven't tried it with Macs RTV bedding yet. It should work well though.

-Aaron

bikerbeans · « **Reply #5 on:** June 13, 2010, 02:57:46 AM »

Anybody ever install a bipod directly to the frame? I would assume that a D/T on the frame is a no-no, but maybe a clamp-on arrangement?

BB

PowPow · « **Reply #6 on:** June 13, 2010, 03:36:27 AM »

I think you would want a bipod as far out the barrel as you can get it for steadiness, but you would also want it on a "floated" part of the gun to preserve the barrel harmonics for best accuracy. It seems mounting at the frame (receiver) would leave a whole lot of weight cantilevered out to make the gun hard to hold steady.

Slowhanddd · « **Reply #7 on:** June 13, 2010, 03:55:29 AM »

Here's my set up on my 17 M2(top) and my 223.Works well and holds steady in the sitting position.Slow

mechanic · « **Reply #8 on:** June 13, 2010, 04:14:27 AM »

I use a Survivor forearm, with a second sling stud screwed in. It has been relieved so it does not contact the forearm, and works fine with my 357 and 22 versa. It does not work well with my 45-70.

Ron 1 · « **Reply #9 on:** June 13, 2010, 04:54:04 AM »

i have a harris bi pod on my 22-250 ultra varmint it seems to work well for shooting but as far as over the shoulder on the sling the wing nut for the adjustable lug digs in to my shoulder a lil bit i have found more comfortable way to carry it so the bi pod stays for me.
rw

gcrank1 · « **Reply #10 on:** June 13, 2010, 05:09:22 AM »

Hey BB, why dont you make up a set of old time 'angry sticks' (way more serious than 'cross' sticks) HA!
That way you can easily try different positions forward to find the effect.

bikerbeans · « **Reply #11 on:** June 13, 2010, 05:19:01 AM »

gcrank1,

I thought you where going to send me a design for the perfect bipod for my 45/120 32" barrel?!?

I got a idea in mind for how to mount the bipod so it doesn't mess with my barrel. Since this is only a range gun not to concerned with the portability issue. Time to get a test bipod and head out to the shop and see what happens.

BB

gcrank1 · « **Reply #12 on:** June 13, 2010, 05:43:31 AM »

If you havent tried sticks, you can make a quick trial set of 1X2s and a series of holes about 2/3s of the way up to drop a stovebolt and wingnut on. The holes let you adjust the cross height after setting the legs, which benefit from a spike driven half way in and cut the head off. I like to sit on a 'turkey seat' or couple of boat cushions to get my bum off the ground and relieve the strain on my bad back. Fold up a hand towel or such to pad the cross to prevent marring your stock if you set the forend in. I usually prefer to set the barrel in just ahead of the wood and, holding up there at the X, pull it back to the wood. It firms me up and steadies me in.
If these work for you the next version can be made of better wood, varnished, maybe a leather cradle, etc., and be very handsome.
BTW, if you build one up and have to go somewhere to try it out, take a cordless drill & proper bit to drill more holes for adjustment (just in case).
Ive used a couple of commercial b-pods in the past and much prefer my 'angry sticks'.

myarmor · « **Reply #13 on:** June 13, 2010, 05:55:47 AM »

Slow has his mounted like mine. It works well but takes a little getting use too, not bad though.

gendoc · « **Reply #14 on:** June 13, 2010, 06:13:27 AM »

i hava harris bipod on my m2 also, great for tree-rat shots off the back porch rail.
for my kiyot kill'n i use an adjustable aluminum surveyor's tripod with a modified
forend cup. most of the time i just about know where them critters are gunna poke
there heads out or just wonder out in the open hear'n and smell'n something good to eat

late evening, right before dusk the wife and i sit'n on tha back porch... usually see(with a spotter) a few running down the fence row to the head of the swamp get'n ready to pack-up and hunt after dark.
if they stop and scratch or smell each other..... there done !!!!

quickdtoo · « **Reply #15 on:** June 13, 2010, 06:21:13 AM »

I've only used a bipod on my fluted Ultra 22-250, works fine after I fully floated the forend.

I'd like to add that I have 3 bipods, one of the chinese Harris clones which seems to work as good as the Harris, the material is a bit lighter tho, probably not a durable as a Harris, but cost about half as much. I've used them on my 17hmr Marlins for field work on gray diggers, the best for that is a Harris with the swivel head, the fixed type don't work well on uneven terrain, precise accuracy just doesn't happen with the rifle canted.

Tim

NFG · « **Reply #16 on:** June 13, 2010, 09:31:46 AM »

I've used Harris bipods since....all my varminters have bipods, including my 17FB Handi...but NOT my BC.

Bipods need to be mounted on a full bedded or full floated HEAVY STIFF, small cal barrel or back near the hinge pin on Handi's and T/C to be the most effective...like Slow's, otherwise accuracy can suffer depending on your level of acceptable accuracy. Barrel flex, barrel stiffness related to caliber, bullet weight etc all can affect just how well a bipod works.

Do a search online...there are many very interesting articles relating to military and bipods and how different weapons react.

My 17FB has the forend from my BC mounted on it and full bedded, then mounted forward about mid barrel and about 4" in front of the forend mount screw...works OK but WILL change impact point from shooting over a bench rest, setting in the bag just in front of the hinge pin to shooting on the bipod.

Had the same problem with the 223 HB but the lousy chamber was causing some of that dispersion.

I have some designs drawn up but they are big and UGLY...basically mounted on the frame with a U-channel so the barrel can still swing down....several ways to mount clamp style over the frame just below the barrel, nylon/brass bolts against the hinge pin, and screwed to the bottom of the frame...Haven't dilled on any frames yet but have a SB1 I will use as a victim whenever.

Still doing my favorite thing...experimenting...NO break action lends itself to a lot of easy mods....unfortunately.

The only way you will know for sure how your Handi will do...is to do it...then work up a load that shoots OK with the bipod. Flipping the bullets can be caused by barrel harmonics...you just have to find out where the harmonics are with the bipod attached...simple and not so simple.

Luck

Mac11700 · « **Reply #17 on:** June 13, 2010, 10:01:47 AM »

Well..I am certainly no expert on Handi's and bi-pods,and my experiance is brand spanking new with this regard..so take this FWIW...but...a person can get real lucky every now and then.I got to shoot my o6' today and managed a real nice 3/4 " 4 shot group before having my shooting bench literally start bouncing all around by a bunch of guys shooting next to me and it opened up my group to a little over 1" for the 5th shot...It's got a lot of potential with out any modifications to the forearm in any way..in other words straight out of the box.The 26" tubes are pretty stiff as they come..and being a 30-06 might make a difference.. can't really say for sure..but I can say is to try it as it comes before you go and do any mods to it..cause no 2 are exactly alike and you might get lucky with yours.. I'll be trying mine again before I do anything to it,just so I can compare it afterwards if I have to RTV bed mine like I do all of my other forearms..Then again..this might actually be the first one I don't have too..and that would be cool with me too..

Mac

gcrank1 · « **Reply #18 on:** June 13, 2010, 10:57:23 AM »

Well BB, you got me thinkin' again, and for trying out on the cheap you might be able to use one of those plastic coated utility hooks ( a big 'U" shape) with the lag screw mount. With something to screw it into that has a pair of 'bi-pod' legs you can try the different frame/forend positions to find whats working before spending time & big bucks on something that doesnt work.
I used just such a hook to make a palm rest for offhand 'schuetzen' shooting. I stick it in my front pocket between shots/loading, then up to the same spot just behind the balance point to shot.
The screw is into a piece of dowel that fit into a rounded cap from one of my wife's fancy hair stuff. The dowel is just long enough to set the rifle level with the back of my arm well down on my ribcage.

miyata · « **Reply #19 on:** June 13, 2010, 01:41:12 PM »

Quote from: bikerbeans on June 12, 2010, 03:59:41 PM

....The gun I am working up will weigh in the 13 to 14 pound range.

I'd like to hear more about what you've done to get to this weight.

bikerbeans · « **Reply #20 on:** June 13, 2010, 02:38:12 PM »

Miyata,

Gun is sitting on 11 pounds even right now. Waiting on a new stock and then will add more weight. Going to work on a pallet wood stock so if I screw it up will not be too upset. Basic plan is to do a little stock relief so I can add more lead. Have to be careful not to destroy the integrity of the stock. Another option I am going to try is to use a weighted check pad over the comb. I've read some posts about bad things that happen to the barrel stud if you add the weight to the front of a Handi so I will add to the back end only.

BB

PS: Did you get bit by a Hubel 499?

NFG · « **Reply #21 on:** June 13, 2010, 06:32:15 PM »

READ THE STICKY about the forend...that was MINE that sheared off the forend on my 45-70 BC...the forend mount is just spot welded...4 spots about 3/32" dia. I silver solder the OEM mounts with Brownells Hi Force 44 Hi Temp or the "regular" lo temp solder...and add an additional home made mount copy on the hard recoiling calibers and leave out the lead.

My BC weighs 11# using the stock weight that came in the 12 Ga USH stock. My 12GaFH with the Gunstocks Inc stock can be weighted up to 20# with extra holes or the stock milled out. Great for off the bench...and a bag of shot as a "sissy bag" works wonders on ANY hard kicking shooter. Bags with a grab handle on one end are available from Midway, that will hold 25# of shot and is much easier to handle.

BUT you have to be careful just how much weight you add so as not to make the shooter butt heavy...unless you plan on just bench/hood shooting .

I've made weights with alum tubing in an old camp bed frame that just fit inside the stock hole filled with epoxied shot...Be sure the weight DOESN'T MOVE...you don't want a couple lbs of mass to get moving, whack the recoil pad and strip the recoil pad screws out.

Yuu can also drill another hole in the stock and pack it with shot. Synthetic stocks have PLENTY of space for shot...pallet wood has plenty of extra room for an additional hole and the Gunstocks Inc thumbhole stocks have plenty of room for an extra hole PLUS the extra weight.