Author Topic: Skin on Ladle (Read 692 times)

Castaway · « **on:** November 25, 2003, 02:43:15 AM »

Got a question for someone. For the past 10 years, I've casted with a bottom pour pot. Sunday, I decided to use my old plumbers pot and a ladle for my session. Alloy was lead sheathing (I'm assuming it was virtually pure lead) and coiled 50-50 solder, for about a 1:45 mix. I fluxed the lead thoroughly to bring up the crud up, then added my tin, fluxed again and again, then started to cast. I noticed that each time I ladled melt into the mould, I'd have a skin of metal clinging to the ladle. It would tap out easily. I raised the temp, fluxed again and still had the skin. Any ideas what was going on? On a side note, bullets were consistent in weight afterwards.

Graycg · « **Reply #1 on:** November 25, 2003, 02:56:37 AM »

Sounds like your ladle was cooling off fast enough to allow the lead to stick, but that would be odd if your mould was proper temp to make good bullets...unless you preheated the mould and not the ladle?

regards,
Graycg

Lead pot · « **Reply #2 on:** November 25, 2003, 03:29:38 AM »

That is normal Castaway dont worry about it.If you dont want the coating just toutch a candle on it and give it a wax coating.
that coating is tin or some other metal that melts at a warmer temp and therefor cools a little faster.That coating dont hurt a thing.
When you cast for a while you will notice a thicker metal floating on top,that is the alloy seperating,you can eather reflux or do as I do,just stir the soup with your ladle when you refill.I flux only once when I start a new batch of alloy.
You can raise the heat but that will give you a frosted bullet,that frosting is the alloy surfacing on the surface of the bullet(tin, antimoni,babit,or what ever)like galvinizing on sheetmetal and that is what will give you some leading problems.
If you shoot the old smooth bore Muskets with pure lead hollow base ball you will verry seldom see lead in the barrel.
Somthing to think about.
Lp.

I might add.Lead will only carry so much tin or antimoni, you have to keep the excess mixed or it is wasted. I personly think it is the tin that smears the bore.I think it is important to mix a little antimoni with the tin to keep it from smearing,not much.Just my thinking.

shooter223 · « **Reply #3 on:** December 02, 2003, 11:58:09 AM »

I am primarily a ladle caster. I use Rowell bottom pour ladles and that skim is of no concern as you always get a clean alloy. Works for me. shooter...

waksupi · « **Reply #4 on:** December 02, 2003, 01:31:34 PM »

Alloys don't separate. They do not raise to the surface of a bullet when cooling, or to the surface of a pot. The only thing besides dirt you will see on the top of a melt, is oxidizing tin, as it is the most easily and quickest of the metals in an alloy to oxidize. That is the very thin skim on tp of the pot, and shouldn't be removed. Put kitty litter on top of the melt, and it won't oxidize, or need refluxing.

In a recent discussion on bullet alloys, Felix said it was the antimony that would cause the alloy to grab the metal, and adding more tin would help surround the antimony molecules.

Lead pot · « **Reply #5 on:** December 03, 2003, 11:10:45 AM »

I have to correct my post above.Sometimes my fingers dont put down what my mind thinks.
Tin melts at a cooler temp.Tin melts at arround 450 degs.lead arround 620 degs.
Tin being lighter than lead will float to the top in time,if it is not kept fluxed and mixed.Lead will only except about 3% tin,so keep it fluxed,and mixed.

Lp.