You ask about a good .22 handgun for a bargain. Well, they can be had if you look and wait. And if you look and wait, you just might find a S&W M17 revolver. I have one in 8-3/8ths from 1983. It is superb. Of the Rugers I can say that they are just fine but not like the Smith. Mind you, I love my tuned Vaqueros but we're talking .22's here.
There is no comparison between a Ruger Single-Six when shooting the S&W in single action. And, most of us shoot single action when plinking, I think. You can improve the action on the Ruger somewhat but then you have spent more money and you still won't even come close to the M17 right out of the box.
What about a semi-auto? I own a Ruger MkII Stainless Target. Very accurate but it will still jam every now and then. So, when I head for the gravel pit, my M17 usually goes with me. I am going to guess that it's the same with the Buckmark. Not that I ever owned one but I watch to the left and right at the range and notice what's going on. Sooner or later, every auto jams. I think there is nothing wrong with the autos. I believe it's the ammo. Those little things are made by the gazillions, and, well...
If you go with a DA revolver, bring a .006" feeler gage with you. Cock the hammer and slide the gage between the cylinder and the barrel. It should not be overly loose as you check each postion. Better that it not go in at all. After countless bricks my M17 measures .003" when locked up. The point is this: The M17 was so well made that I don't think .22's will ever wear it out. This is a K-frame revolver upon which many .357's are built. So, your chances of getting a good one are high.
Look for badly worn cylinder notches which indicate the idiotic practice of "spinning" the cylinder "cowboy style". A light line going from notch to notch indicates normal wear. The line should be pretty uniform all around which is an indicator of good timing and decent machine work. Open the crane and check for deformatiom on mating parts. Normal use will not have any measurable effect on these areas in a .22. If you see a gap when the cylinder is closed at the front of the crane/frame (just under the ejector rod), try to shove in a corner of a piece of writing paper. It is .003" and should just go in. This is normal mechanical clearance. If it's sloppy and you can see excessive wear around the crane, then someone has probably spent idle time slapping the cylinder open and closed. Very much a no-no.
Lastly, check the rear of the cylinder where the cartridge rims seat. If there is damage such as mushrooming and nicks then you can be sure that the previous owner dryfired it. Again, a no-no for any .22.
Good luck,
Loozinit