Garys new hobby , NOW with video !!!!!

[Victor3]

as far as drilling , I sharpened the bits nice and sharp they went thru real good . There was a funny feeling along the way ....the bit sort of plunged itself a couple of times ...?

I dont know what it was as the bore is smooth the vent bit did the same thing , kinda got 'grabed' by the bronze and drilled very fast for a short time ...? maybe both bit edges were not cutting the same ...?

 As Dan noted, drilling brass/bronze can be tricky, but easily remedied by modifying the point of the drill slightly. You need to remove a tiny bit of the helix to form a neutral/slightly negative rake at the cutting edges. I'm sure one of the seacoast guys could show you. Otherwise, the drill wants to screw itself into the material, often snapping it off where it can be difficult to remove.

[RocklockI]

as far as drilling , I sharpened the bits nice and sharp they went thru real good . There was a funny feeling along the way ....the bit sort of plunged itself a couple of times ...?

I dont know what it was as the bore is smooth the vent bit did the same thing , kinda got 'grabed' by the bronze and drilled very fast for a short time ...? maybe both bit edges were not cutting the same ...?

 As Dan noted, drilling brass/bronze can be tricky, but easily remedied by modifying the point of the drill slightly. You need to remove a tiny bit of the helix to form a neutral/slightly negative rake at the cutting edges. I'm sure one of the seacoast guys could show you. Otherwise, the drill wants to screw itself into the material, often snapping it off where it can be difficult to remove.

YES Vic3 that is what it felt like , 'screwing itself' into the material ... like zip ,all of a sudden it went nuke on me !
zip quicker than it should . So you are saying to leave a very slight rake /or negative rake ? how would it cut  ?

I'm lucky nothing snapped ,as I been there ,done that .

Deep hole water lines for A and B injection molds halves  . 17" drill deep in a block on a monster drill with about a 40" inch "swing" ...if thats the right term ?

"TITCH" !!!  ....OH HOLY SHEITTE ! I BROKE THE BIT !!!! then much wailing and teeth nashing ,mostly mine ....
 
uuhh ? boss ...?   I need to talk to you ...  ,  .. ?   thinking "lord in heaven protect me from this man "

the bit stays where it is ..., no extra charge to the $ 47K customer 

[Victor3]

 Lookie here...



 Note the "dubbing." That's the little flat (parallel to the C/L of the bit) that removes the helix at the cutting edge (lip) of the drill. This flat makes the drill 'push' material out of the way of the cutting edge rather than dive under it.

 Edit - BTW, if you have significant porosity in a casting, this modification may or may not help you all that much. In that case, it's best to use this drill grind along with creating some drag on the drill press/mill quill by tightening the quill lock somewhat as you you advance the tool into the work.

 They used to make special straight-fluted drills for brass, but I haven't seen any in modern use.

[carronader]

good photos...........how come you gonna let it go ' au naturel ' ( patina )  you drank all the Brasso again?

[Max Caliber]

Victor3, That's good info. I do a lot of brass/bronze drilling and have always had trouble with bits grabbing the work and have tried grinding different bit angles but have never found anything that works well . It's always exciting to have a bit grab the work and have a 10 pound vise start spinning wildly on the drill press table. I usually wear gloves and keep the belt tension loose enough so I can over power the drill press by hand if the bit grabs.

[RocklockI]

That is good info . i havnt had a 10 pound vise do the whirly dance . But I had some stove pipe to make a flask grab it went straight to the top of the drills shank then starts spinning ...

Oh yikes !

....drank all the brasso ? .......that would be poor form ,and rude . I abhor rudness . 

[Victor3]

I had some stove pipe to make a flask grab it went straight to the top of the drills shank then starts spinning ...

 Drilling thin material is another PITA. If it isn't held solidly it can be dangerous if it comes loose. I've seen a few serious cuts result from operators trying to hold sheet metal parts by hand on drill presses (a big no-no).

 If you can find one the right diameter for what you're doing, a center drill or spot drill is much safer than a twist drill since there are no flutes for the material to ride up on if it grabs.

[Double D]

Here are additional post related to this subject

New Bronze   http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,205676.0.html
    
Forum "Road-Kill" (MORKO TRANSLATION PROJECT)  http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,212210.0.html

If there are any others please post a link.

[gulfcoastblackpowder]

Another link to more of the Morko (specifically, mine ):
Morko in all his glory!...can you dig it? http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,211345.0.html