Love these new Arrows!!!

[All Hawks Kill]

I sharpened all my broadheads last night so I practiced with fieldpoints this afternoon. I knew the Thumper Shafts I built were flying good, but with broadheads I never tried grouping them to keep from damaging any of the arrows. With fieldpoints I said what the heck and shot a group once, then decided I'd be damaging arrows if I continued. Here are a couple pictures of that group from 15 yards sitting down like I will be doing this coming Saturday and I think Bambi has big problems.

[ChrisK]

very nice, I love your fletching

[All Hawks Kill]

Thanks, all the arrows I build for myself or fletched with 4 feathers and bright so I don't loose them.  The cresting I'm just learning, this is just my second set for dipping and paint cresting.

[BBF]

15 yards, Lemme see, oh yep, in a petting farm I got that close

[Cottonwood]

NOW YOU WENT AND DONE IT.... That be the color I want for my arrows.  I want them to look just like that 

[All Hawks Kill]

15 yards, Lemme see, oh yep, in a petting farm I got that close

Most of the deer I've killed have been 15 yards or less.  When hunting traditional gear you have to learn how to get close to them.  The shot I'll have from my blind will be no more than 15 yards so no use practicing any further.

NOW YOU WENT AND DONE IT.... That be the color I want for my arrows.  I want them to look just like that 

Jon, I can sure do them just like these.  I know they seem bright at first, but man can you see them fly and I know they should be pretty ease to find in the woods as well.  The only other color combination that I've been told that is easier to see is "Hot Pink".  Think I'll stick with the orange.....

Oh by the way these are those new shafts I'm testing.  I love the Heritage 150s I built, but I'm going to have to go with these.  The tapered shaft design really has a lot of benefits over the old straight shafts. I think the biggest advantage they will give you when the metal meets the road is penetration. 

[gholt27]

AHK very nice set up and even better GROUPING!!!! BAMBI BEWARE!!!
I'm fletching my Cx Heritage 250's with the four fletch 4 inch feathers. I know you use the five inch do you find with the five inch the arrow is stabilized faster? and what about the speed, and the all important noise factor??? I'm also thinking of using a 90% aspect on my fletch any input or thoughts on that compared to maybe 75 or whatever?

[All Hawks Kill]

AHK very nice set up and even better GROUPING!!!! BAMBI BEWARE!!!
I'm fletching my Cx Heritage 250's with the four fletch 4 inch feathers. I know you use the five inch do you find with the five inch the arrow is stabilized faster? and what about the speed, and the all important noise factor??? I'm also thinking of using a 90% aspect on my fletch any input or thoughts on that compared to maybe 75 or whatever?

I think a lot of what you are asking depends on the size of the broadheads and the FOC (Front of Center) of your arrows.  There are folks that will say 3 four inch feathers is all you need and some that say you have to have 5 inch feathers, and then you will get the story of 4 four inchers or 4 five inchers.  Length, weight and spine of the shaft itself play a role into factoring how they should be fletched.   250's are some pretty stiff shafts for traditional bows, what is the poundage of your bow?  Have you bare shaft tuned the shafts, heads and bow to see what weight head works the best?  The reason I'm asking this is that is how I came to my arrow setup.   I'm shooting a longbow that is 48#@28", where I draw 27 inches so my draw weight is 46 pounds.  I built some CX Heritage 150s for this bow before I got the shafts I'm using now.  The 150s are 29 inches in length and require a 225 grain head to be correctly spined for my 46 pound draw weight.  That mean a really big broadhead that would have sizeable blades, which meant I would need a lot of stabilizing.  With the 225gr heads I had plenty of FOC to support the 4 feather fletching with 5 inch feathers that would give me the faster recovery and stabilization.  The shafts I shot this group with are cut to 28.5 inches and require 200gr heads which called for the same type of setup.  These shafts are also fully tapered which is a great benefit from the FOC standpoint.  So once more I picked the 4 five inch feather fletching.  Now given some basic information I can give you a ballpark recommendation on shaft length, head size and type of fletching, but without bare shaft tuning, it would be just ballpark.

[gholt27]

AHK,
I'm shooting a Bob Lee 56'' recurve 60#@28.
My draw is 28'' and I have been shooting 30'' 150's with 50gr insert and a 125gr head with a 3 shield 5'' feathers and I just cant seem to get'em in there. So I went to a 250 with the same set up and found arrows where flying alot better not as much movement as with the 150's. AHK thanks for your TIME and your thoughts I REALLY appreciate your help and input!!

[All Hawks Kill]

gholt, you are right about the 150s being a little light with 175gr points.  Out of a 60# bow 150s may work well with 100gr but even 125 would push it some and those 175s have the shafts way under spined.  You are in the ballpark for sure with the 250s.  If you want to test to see the exact weight points work the best order a field point test kit from 3Rivers.  The kit comes with 2 heads in each weight from 100 to 225.  Take a couple unfletched bare shafts and shoot each weight heads.  The ones that fly the straightest without fletching will be the weight you want to use.  If there is a tie between two weight, take another half inch off your shaft and go with the heavier weight.  Good luck and let me know if I can be of any more help.

[gholt27]

AHK I'll give it a shot and I'll let ya know!!!!
Thanks again!!!