Author Topic: Lyman deerstalker Flintlock (Read 1821 times)

Rummer · « **on:** December 16, 2003, 06:42:08 AM »

I am looking to upgrade my current flintlock. I think most of the things I dislike about flint ignition have to do with the fact that I bought the cheapest flintlock I could find. The lockwork seems chincy and prone to wearing out easily.

I think the Lyman deerstalker would meet my needs well. It is compact, has adjustable sights and a 1:48" twist.

Am I correct in assuming that the 1:48 twist will stabilize conicals (.50 Cal) in the 300grain class?

Does anybody have any experience with this rifle?

Specifically I would like to know how good the wood to metal fit is. I am asking because on my Traditions, priming powder falls down between the priming pan and the barrel and when the gun is fired crud gets all over the lockwork. My father's TC PA Hunter doesn't do this. For that matter my friend's Traditions doesn't do this.

Any insights this rifle or flintlock upgrades in general would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Again.

John

bowfish · « **Reply #1 on:** December 16, 2003, 06:52:27 PM »

Hi John Iam new to the flintlock game but started out with the deerstalker I had alot of trouble with it going off. So I took it to an old flint shooter to see if it was me or the gun. Turns out it was alittle of the gun and alot of me.The two things he recommened was a new touch hole liner from RMC sports and a Dura flint also he said to switch to 4f in my pan instead of the 3f.Well I did and man it is a new gun goes off every time and shoots better than I can I am still getting use to the flash but my load is 75 grns of 3f and a 385 grn buffalo conical with an t/c prlubed felt wad on top of the powder The trigger needs work and I like the gun enough that Iwill upgrade the lock to an L&R lock this spring. The wood to metal fit on my rifle is very good. Hope this helps good luck...

crow_feather · « **Reply #2 on:** December 16, 2003, 07:06:09 PM »

Rummer,

I had a slight opening in my LGP flinter. I first just used clay, I would push some into the crack after I reset the barrel. I later used a small touch of glass bedding to cure the problem. I also take a #2 drill and drill out the flash hole liner. I put a feather in the hole when I load and pull it when I am ready to shoot.

C F

Rummer · « **Reply #3 on:** December 17, 2003, 01:57:19 AM »

Thank you for the advice, gentlemen, I do appreciate it. I have a couple of further questions:

Bowfish, why do you use the wad?

CF, do you keep that quill in place while you hunt?

Thanks again guys.

John

crow_feather · « **Reply #4 on:** December 17, 2003, 05:48:25 AM »

Rummer

No I don't, but I when I hunt, I try to remember to keep a slight angle on the rifle so the powder stays to the far side of the pan. It aids in better ignition. I still plug the touch hole when I load, but I then pull the feather.
When I target shoot, I wait until I'm ready to shoot before I pull it.

C F

bowfish · « **Reply #5 on:** December 17, 2003, 06:47:56 PM »

When I used to shoot conicals alot I was having some leading in the barrel a gunsmith said to add a prelubed 50 cal wad over the powder this would help with a better seal to prevent hot gas from going around the bullet and leaving lead behind and it helps with higher velocities.the accuracy with them was much better .The first t/c I had with the 1-48 twist liked the lee real bullet I sighted it in with the felt wad and then just to see if it helped or not I shot it 3 more times without them the groups opened up alot and the leading was not a problem anymore. Drop me a line when you find the right load for your gun I would like to see how it would do in my gun .