I recently decided that a 4-Click Ruger was becoming more and more important shooting Duelist in CAS. If my thumb slipped off the hammer during the cocking procedure, I had to cycle the cylinder around to strike the missed cylinder, adding more seconds to my time and/or the opportunity for a missed target due to not being ready for the detonation of the "mystery" cylinder. The Power kit provides a half-cock notch so that failure to cock the gun properly eliminates most of the "round the horn" procedures. The hammer falls to half-cock in a poor thumbing of the hammer and then advances to the proper cylinder position when the hammer is taken to full cock.
At almost $160 per kit (retail), this is an expensive proposition. However, with my discount at Brownells and prior installation of the springs in the kit, I bought only the hammer and trigger pieces at less than $120. I talked to a number of smiths who are competent to do this upgrade using the stock Ruger parts and found that my cost would be around $100. So, taking into account the precision of the Power kits and the satisfaction guarantees of Brownells, I decided to purchase 2 kits.
Upon receipt, I inspected the parts. They are made from tempered steel and casehardened. The parts are machined on EDM or CNC machines and are exacting in their dimensions. Additional steel has been added to the boss around the hammer pivot pin, strengthening the pivot support and the hammer plunger. The trigger sear engagement tail has been modified to allow the wide sear of a Ruger trigger to fit into the half-cock notch on the hammer.
The parts are a "drop-in" fit. In fact Power warns that any alteration necessary be made only to other parts in the revolver....that being the pawl and transfer bar.
Upon initial installation, the hammers did not come to full cock due to a change in the dimensions between the pawl and the hammer. It was necessary to shorten the lower step on the pawl by approximately 0.005" on each revolver in order to obtain sear engagement at the same time as the final cylinder stop drop into the cylinder cut.
I attempted to use a the existing free-spin pawl on the first gun. I had installed this pawl a while back and liked the easy loading capability. My prior fitting of the free-spin pawl resulted in poor gun timing when used with the Power hammer and, rather than attempting to further modify a $30 free-spin pawl, I replaced it with the $4 stock Ruger part.
The other modification required is to the transfer bar. A small area of metal must be taken off the transfer bar to allow the loading gate to open when the gun is on half cock. This isn't a necessary procedure since the cylinder will spin with the hammer fully seated and the loading gate open, but it does provide an opportunity to load the gun on half-cock in the style of a Colt SAA. The metal is easily removed with a file and takes only a few minutes of shop time.
I have used the hammer/trigger kits in two matches now. I have had only one cocking problem where the gun failed to fall properly to half-cock and necessitated a "round the horn" cycling of the cylinder. I examined the timing and felt that I had left the pawl slightly long. I removed .002" more from the lower pawl step and feel this should solve the problem.
The instruction set that came with the parts is comprehensive and should provide most shadetree smiths with enough information to do the job without further assistance. I did call Randall Power, Ron Power's son, to discuss the free-spin pawl installation. He answered the phone on the second ring and provided immediate assistance. We talked for 5 or 10 minutes. He is a very pleasant guy.
My view is the half-cock kit is invaluable to a fast-shooting duelist using a Ruger. While the kit is expensive, those who prefer to shoot Rugers over Colt clones will be very pleased with the setup.
Personally, I am toying with the idea of removing the transfer bar. The action is almost Colt-like now, but doesn't feel Colt-like because the transfer bar adds a component to the cocking procedure not present in solid firing pin SAA's. While I don't like removing a safety, the guns are for my personal use and the original hammers, triggers and transfer bars can be reinstalled upon sale or trade to someone else. I met with a top shooter this weekend and he has removed the transfer bar. His revolver feel as close to a Colt as I expect a Ruger can get.
I hope this is helpful. I haven't posted often on Graybeard's, but I read quite a few of the threads.
