Author Topic: here is the begenning (Read 801 times)

williamlayton · « **on:** December 20, 2003, 01:57:49 PM »

ok boys i'm gonna lay it on tha line. I have never reloaded, I am not a technician, an I got a desire.
For begenning lets give me three books to read--one should be VERY basic.
lets not get into equipment right now boys--I'm worried enough bout understandin this here primer.

eventually i want to reload for a .357SIG and a .45.
blessings

savageT · « **Reply #1 on:** December 20, 2003, 03:08:37 PM »

Quote from: williamlayton

ok boys i'm gonna lay it on tha line. I have never reloaded, I am not a technician, an I got a desire.
For begenning lets give me three books to read--one should be VERY basic.
lets not get into equipment right now boys--I'm worried enough bout understandin this here primer.

eventually i want to reload for a .357SIG and a .45.
blessings

Hey Bill,
I know perzactly how you feel bud! A year ago I was in the same shape. I picked up a used Lyman's 47th Handbook eBay and found it to be very easy to follow with lots of photos and text to help you get started. When I bought the RCBS Rockchuckers Kit there was a new Speer Manual that came with it as well. I found both books were well written and gave me the confidence to get started. Now, when it came time to lock n' load that first round at the range.......that was the moment of truth!
Just sit down some place quiet and start reading. You'll enjoy the material and find the subject easy to follow. If you have any questions, there's always us guys at GrayBeard ,or Lyman's and RCBS Help Lines. Keep us posted and I hope Santa brings you lots a reloading goodies!!!!

Jim

jamie · « **Reply #2 on:** December 20, 2003, 06:09:53 PM »

Yep, the Lyman's books are very good for learning, alot of knowledge in those things. I know you don't want to get into equipment but let me share some advise. When you start, load 147 grn bullets in the 357 sig. With the 125's unless you purchase bullets made for the sig the ogive will give you problems. The ogive on the bullets made for 9mm is lower so somteimes when using them in the 357 sig some rounds won't crimp correctly because of the taper of the bullet. The 147's take care of that.
Now if you are loading hollow points then none of the above applies, they have a higher ogive.

longwinters · « **Reply #3 on:** December 21, 2003, 03:28:40 AM »

Remember, depending on what reloading press etc... you get, you may get a reloading manual with it: you probably dont want to duplicate your manuals$$$$. I have read thru the Lyman 47th (very good). I have the Speer, Nosler and Sierra. All are good, but I needed 2 of them, when I 1st started out this spring to understand some of the concepts. I am probably a little slow on mechanical things and it took 2 of them explaining the same thing for me to grasp it clearly as they say some things in different ways. I had no one locally that I knew who reloaded and had to rely on those manuals and the help of this forum. As you reload, you will have more questions come up and these guys are very helpful, and I am very grateful to them for taking the time to respond.

long

Jack Crevalle · « **Reply #4 on:** December 21, 2003, 03:45:24 AM »

I highly recomend the NRA reloading manual as a primer. It contains reloading basics on rifle, pistol, shotgun and has excellent reference material on all aspects of reloading as well as safety. It is not tied to a single vendor like most other manuals so you will get an unbias view. It is trully a primer so it doesn't have load data.

http://store.nrahq.org/nra/product.asp?dept%5Fid=205&pf%5Fid=PB+01779

Can you go wrong for $6.00?

Also check out:

http://www.reload-nrma.com/

williamlayton · « **Reply #5 on:** December 21, 2003, 09:25:28 AM »

well boys-
tha first question that comes to mind is, since everbody says get tha lymans, an i had heard that before, will this create confusion(i had to laugh outloud at this myownself-how much more can i get!) if'n i use another product? a disclaimer here-I have not looked at any equipment at this point.
Thanx fer tha nra tip thingy-i saw that an was gonna ask bout it.

so now the NRA manual and lymans, question here is does it matter if it is a 97 or 98 ?
Any other thang ya want to throw my way?
Btw- could i set this bench up in tha storage shed-which aint heated or cooled except by god? I ask this cause I aint got no basement or garage space.

savageT · « **Reply #6 on:** December 21, 2003, 10:10:03 AM »

Quote from: williamlayton

well boys-
tha first question that comes to mind is, since everbody says get tha lymans, an i had heard that before, will this create confusion(i had to laugh outloud at this myownself-how much more can i get!) if'n i use another product? a disclaimer here-I have not looked at any equipment at this point.
Thanx fer tha nra tip thingy-i saw that an was gonna ask bout it.

so now the NRA manual and lymans, question here is does it matter if it is a 97 or 98 ?
Any other thang ya want to throw my way?
Btw- could i set this bench up in tha storage shed-which aint heated or cooled except by god? I ask this cause I aint got no basement or garage space.

What 97-98?

?? I wouldn't worry too much about brand names when reading the text. There are specific instructions that come with every piece of gear you get anyway. If you look up the NRA Guide it will ask you to sign up for their beginners kit (just a few bucks$$ and they send plans for a load bench) I did, and received all the freebie booklets from bullet and powder companies. It's a Great Starter. Also, if you want to, you can order the series books called "One Book/One Caliber" for specific calibers (ie. 6.5 x 55 Swedish) listing 975 Proven & Tested Loads, 36 Various Bullet Designs and 47 Different Powders. ...... it's great to make sure you have just about everyones inputs. Online ordering http://www.loadbooks.com. Published by Loadbooks USA, Inc.
As far as where the bench goes........If you want to freeze or sweat it out in the shed depending on weather and seasons conditions, just keep in mind to keep open flames and sparks farrrrrr piece away! Good Luck.

Jim

Jack Crevalle · « **Reply #7 on:** December 21, 2003, 10:25:38 AM »

Quote from: williamlayton

well boys-
tha first question that comes to mind is, since everbody says get tha lymans, an i had heard that before, will this create confusion(i had to laugh outloud at this myownself-how much more can i get!) if'n i use another product?

The basics are the same for most anyone's equipment.

Quote

a disclaimer here-I have not looked at any equipment at this point.

Good. Do your research first and get some hands-on or you will wind up with stuff sitting in a drawer.

Quote

Any other thang ya want to throw my way?

Yeah, if you don't know anyone who can give you hands-on instruction check out the nra website or the nrma for instructors in your area. Also, check out gun clubs or ranges.

Quote

Btw- could i set this bench up in tha storage shed-which aint heated or cooled except by god? I ask this cause I aint got no basement or garage space.

You may have a problem with rust. I've bought powder from a guy who keeps it in a non-climate controled space and there's the beginnings of rust on the tops of his cans.

williamlayton · « **Reply #8 on:** December 21, 2003, 01:38:13 PM »

well -97- i'm wonderin myself, where that came from- 47/48 is the numbers i saw.
I was wonderin bout tha humidity-being here on the gulf coast. guess i can keep tha powder somewhere else, but then i may need to keep everything inside. Hummm-concerns already raisen their heads. gotta think on this.
got a suggestion?
blessings

Jack Crevalle · « **Reply #9 on:** December 21, 2003, 02:21:51 PM »

Quote from: williamlayton

well -97- i'm wonderin myself, where that came from- 47/48 is the numbers i saw.
I was wonderin bout tha humidity-being here on the gulf coast. guess i can keep tha powder somewhere else, but then i may need to keep everything inside. Hummm-concerns already raisen their heads. gotta think on this.
got a suggestion?
blessings

I'm assuming your location is probably alot like southern florida, not too much variation in temperature. What you could do is buy a couple of "golden rods" http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/359695 and put them in the cabinets where you are going to store your powder and primers to control the humidity ( assuming you have power there ). Just remember that powder and primers should be stored separately.

I've never stored my stuff outside so this is just a guess.

savageT · « **Reply #10 on:** December 21, 2003, 03:47:50 PM »

Bill,
Humidity can be a concern during the loading operation. Always return the unused powder back in the original steel container tightly capped. As far as the dies are concerned, keep them clean and oiled like any of your guns................as well as your calipers and beam balance. You will need electricity for a tumbler, electronic scale, etc., and excellent lighting so that you can see what you're doing clearly.
The other thing you might consider is building a portable bench (like an old desk) that you could setup in a spare room of the house. Keep the powder and primers outside in the shed.

Lyman 47th edition Handbook states:
Always store powder in a cool, dry place away from potential sources of ignition. Do not store powder where it will be subjected to the sun's rays or be influenced by any other source of heat. Be certain that children cannot gain access to the storage cabinet. Do not store propellents in the same area with solvents, flammable gases, primers, or any highly combustable materials. Smoking should never be permitted in storage areas or while handling and using powders.
Every reloader should have a copy of the SAAMI pamphlet entitled "Properties And Storage of Smokeless Propellants" which is available from:
SAAMI
PO Box 838
Branford, CT 06405

Old Syko · « **Reply #11 on:** December 21, 2003, 04:00:42 PM »

Another good book "you can't have too many" is The ABC's of Reloading by Dean Grennell, if it is still in print. If not you can still find a copy at a local gun show or dealer. This is a book that is around 35 + years old and still offers the same info on the basics as you will find in any current printing. It's interesting how the good things never change.

Had to keep my stuff in a shed at one time myself and the only problems I ever had were avoiding rust. It would be worth while to build a portable bench and keep everything in the house. Besides, it wasn't a lot of fun out there when the temps got around 100. I've seen plans for portable benches in some of the mags but don't remember which ones. May be something to consider if you're tight on space.

Savage · « **Reply #12 on:** December 21, 2003, 05:14:16 PM »

William,
Powder storage in an area that is not temperature controlled will lead to early detoration of smokeless powders. That is, according to the powder manufacturers. Hold out for a room inside the house, even if you have to evict the mother-in-law, or send the kids off to boarding school!
Savage

williamlayton · « **Reply #13 on:** December 21, 2003, 05:27:32 PM »

well boys tha kids may send me off to a boarding house-i'm gettinold.
i can store it in the house but the hen probable would send me some place else.
I'm thinkin tha shed-Its the only place i can go that i can do what i want.
It is 10x12 which aint to bad. I'd have to re-arrange some stuff to tha curb but thas alright.
that is my thinking rat now.
blessings too all and to all a good night-er, pardon me santy.

The Shrink · « **Reply #14 on:** December 22, 2003, 02:42:40 AM »

William

I don't know where you are, but don't overlook your local library. Most of the places I've lived the local library carries general books on reloading, but not the product specific ones.

I started with the old single caliber Lee Loader in 30-30 and 16ga. Have stayed away from shotshells since. This was when I was 16!. If I can do it on the kitchen table at 16, you can do it out in a shed now. Let your family know that powder is not an explosive, it's a flammable, and not as easy to ignite or as flammable as the treated fabric in your couch or curtains! It's safe to store in a closet, but I keep mine in USArmy ammo cans that hermetically seal when closed. I keep everything out in the garage and have had no problem with rust or condensation. My primers always go POP when they need to.

Read to learn the basics, buy one of the kits that contain most of what you will need to get started. Stay conservative until you are quite confident you know what you are doing, and rely on tested loads. Know not only reloading but enough internal ballistics and the causes of overpressure at even "safe" loads in unique situations so that you can avoid them.

Have fun, it's another of those addicting hobbies. I gotta go cast bullets!

Wayne

Jack Crevalle · « **Reply #15 on:** December 22, 2003, 03:15:47 AM »

Quote from: savageT

Bill,

Lyman 47th edition Handbook states:
Always store powder in a cool, dry place away from potential sources of ignition. Do not store powder where it will be subjected to the sun's rays or be influenced by any other source of heat. Be certain that children cannot gain access to the storage cabinet. Do not store propellents in the same area with solvents, flammable gases, primers, or any highly combustable materials. Smoking should never be permitted in storage areas or while handling and using powders.
Every reloader should have a copy of the SAAMI pamphlet entitled "Properties And Storage of Smokeless Propellants" which is available from:
SAAMI
PO Box 838
Branford, CT 06405

Good thoughts from SavageT. If you get the NRA reloading manual it has reprints in the back of NFPA recommendations ( from which a great many local and State fire regulations seem to come ) on the storage of powders, primers and finished ammo. I believe it also has the SAMMI reccommendations but I don't have my copy with me at the moment.

Txredneck · « **Reply #16 on:** December 23, 2003, 03:22:59 AM »

Bill,
I live north of Houston, in Montgomery, Tx. If you're not too far away, I'll be glad to have you over the next time I load up a few rounds. I'm no expert, but I always try to be safe, and that's the first, most important part of reloading. I don't have all of the newest and greatest equipment, but I do have the basics. I use the Lyman, Sierra, and Speer manuals, plus a couple of the small manuals the powder companies put out for reference.
If you're not too far away, maybe we can get together. I load for 45acp, .45 colt, .454 Casull, .380 auto, 30-06, 7.62X39 and a few others.
My loading bench is in my bedroom. The wife isn't thrilled about this, but I'm working on getting a small building for it later.
Hope I can help,
Txredneck (Dave)

Kurt Heckman · « **Reply #17 on:** December 23, 2003, 05:02:31 AM »

I am in the same position as Bill I want to start reloading (or at least I think I do)I plan on reloading only one cal initally 300 whisper how much $ should I expect to spend to get started keep in mind I have no need for speed just looking for the most basic of set ups thanks. Kurt

savageT · « **Reply #18 on:** December 23, 2003, 05:20:57 AM »

Kurt,
First thing I would suggest is for you to get a Lymans Handbook, read it through and then start looking for equipment once you have a better idea of what you want and need. Check e-Bay for Reloading Manuals and see if you can pick one up cheaply. Doesn't need to be the latest issue. Also, if I remember. RCBS has an excellent starting primer on-line that will show you the basics of reloading. Don't be afraid to use the Google Search Engine.

Jim

Jack Crevalle · « **Reply #19 on:** December 23, 2003, 10:45:20 AM »

Quote from: Kurt Heckman

I am in the same position as Bill I want to start reloading (or at least I think I do)I plan on reloading only one cal initally 300 whisper how much $ should I expect to spend to get started keep in mind I have no need for speed just looking for the most basic of set ups thanks. Kurt

Kurt,
check out this excellent article by Jamie Mangrum about beginning reloading on the cheap:

http://www.surplusrifle.com/reloading/index.asp

This will give you a good idea of what a low cost setup might run you. Keep in mind that this is using cheap components. I advocate that everyone should buy the best they can afford since there's also value to be considered. RCBS components come with a lifetime replacement even if you aren't the original owner (except electronic scales and powder measures).

Savage · « **Reply #20 on:** December 23, 2003, 11:25:42 AM »

I started reloading back in the late 60s when I left the military. I believe my initial investment was about $50. A Lee handloader and powder measure kit, 100 Speer 158gr half jackets, a pound of Bullseye, and 100 CCI primers. I already had a hammer! Might have been a couple of bucks more, but not much. My first one was in 38spl, but I went on to get started reloading for rifles and shotguns with the same type of equipment. I thought I had gotten about as sophisticated as you could get when I got my RCBS Junior and my MEC 600! I still have that equipment and it is capable of loading servicable ammo today. By the way, the equipment I started with is still available. So the answer is, you can get into reloading for under a hundred bucks! May be a little primitive for most folks--------
Savage

The Shrink · « **Reply #21 on:** December 24, 2003, 01:06:19 AM »

The other thing to consider, Kurt, is how likely is it that you will remain with one caliber all your shooting life? For most of us that's a no-brainer, that's why we're here. If you find similar company here, my suggestion would be to make your initial investment as flexible as you can afford. That's the benifit of the starter kits RCBS and Lyman offer. They usually provide everything you need to get started except components, and you can add refinements as you go.

Today, if I could afford it, I would not start with less than one of these, probably the RCBS kit. When I was 16 these were not available and the price would have been well out of my range. I now use the RCBS JR3 press, earlier and smaller than what they sell now, and it's done everything I have asked of it, including re-forming 30-06 brass to 8mm-06 and lightly swaging 44-40 bullets. A Rockchucker would be nice, but not necessary.

Wayne

Savage · « **Reply #22 on:** December 24, 2003, 03:40:55 AM »

Even though I now use progressive equipment, I still have the old RCBS Jr "O frame" press. I've loaded everything up thru .458 Winchester with it, and still use it for low volume reloading. A RCBS "O frame" will outlast your grandkids!! Bet the Lyman will too. Either one would be a good investment.
Savage

Arco Nudo · « **Reply #23 on:** December 24, 2003, 04:14:39 AM »

WilliamLayton:

You can do no better than the Speer reloading manual. It is the best single book on reloading that I have seen (and I've seen most of them.) It shows the detailed procedure (for both straight wall and bottleneck cases) in well illustrated fashion using RCBS equipment (which is what you should be buying as a beginner anyway). It also has very thoughtful articles on the really important issues for reloaders. The load data is varied (although using Speer bullets only).

Next, I think a copy of the Loadbooks book for the caliber you want to reload. This will show you what loads and bullets and primers are available. They are not totally up to date, but they cover a lot.

It's always a good idea to have another manual on hand for cross-referencing, but I don't think you need to buy one until you decide what kind of bullets you want to shoot. For example, if you want to shoot Nosler bullets, get the Nosler manual too. If Hornady, get the Hornady manual.

The Lyman reloading manual is an OK reference that a lot of people will steer you to. The Speer book is much better.