Author Topic: removing very light pitting from 7600 reciever and cold bluing or spraypainting  (Read 1311 times)

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Offline bcraig

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Hi, I picked up a Remington 7600 that has some light pitting on the surface of the reciever and want to removing the finish and pitting as well and then either cold blue it or spray paint it.
I want to spend as little as possible to do this .I would appreciate information on what materials to use and how to do this as inexpensively as possible and still have it look good. Rifle will be used for hunting.
Thanks,Craig

Offline gunnut69

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You didn't specify where the pits were but I use a single cut machinists file and a technique called draw filing. It is easy to learn and really removes the pits.. Done right it leaves a smooth finish nearly ready for a 'hunter' grade cold blue. If your looking for a simpler technique then simply use backed sandpaper.. Start at about 100 grit and progress theu 220. Finer would not be necessary for a hunter grade finish. I would use OxphoBlue liquid from Brownells.. It produces a very durable finish with only the cost of the bluing agent itself.. I prefer the liquid as it seems to produce a more even finish. Moer than a single coat is usually needed and with OxphoBlue cleanliness is much less important. A bit of oil won't harm the result. Don't work straight from the bottle, I put mine in a squeeze bottle and apply as needed. For applicators I prefer the cottom fiber pads women use to apply/rmove makeup held in a cheap Chinese forecepts. Wet the applicator and rub the surface and keep it wet.. When it doesn't seem to be getting darker dry and do another area. Drying the surface will help keep down any tendancy to blotch. Heating the steel is a good idea as it speeds up the reaction. Don't get it so hot as to sizzle the bluing, just warm to very warm..  After a coat is applied and the surface dried off burnish with medium to fine steel wool (00,000). This will bring out the best color. To darken just apply another coat.. After a couple of days curing time the surface is very wear resistant.. Good luck. Brownells has an ecommerce sight,.,.
gunnut69--
The 2nd amendment to the constitution of the United States of America-
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Offline bcraig

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Do you mean regular sandpaper or the wet and dry black sandpaper like Wal mart has?
Oh By the way I just found a bottle of birchwood casey blue under a bunch of crap in my gun cabinet drawer. bottle is about 8 years old as best I remember, I seem to remember buying it at Wally World way back whenand never using it. Reckon this would work or do I just need to chunk it given its age ?
Thanks for the information

Offline gr8ful

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Try fine or very fine Scotch-brite pads wrapped around a sanding block for removing the old finish.  Clean with some denatured alcohol and try the oxphoblue, I  have had good results with it in the past.  Putting the parts to be blued out in direct sunlight has always been a good method of heating the steel here in La.

Offline bcraig

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has anyone used Rustoleum or high temp engine paint on firearms ?
I am curios as to whether the cold blue or one of these spraypaints would be the most durable for a hunting rifle ?

Offline gr8ful

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Used some high temp engine paint once on a cheap 22 reciever, one of the ones made by marlin for some hardware chain.  It looked really good initially but didn't wear very well.  (it scratched easily)  Powder coating may be a better choice.  Cold Blue can look very good and is as durable as most any original finish just apply it several times and follow the instructions.

Offline gunnut69

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Paint in general has a problem sticking to bare metal.. Even with a primer working the metal to provide a mechanical lock is a good idea. Don't know about the WonderBlue as it's one I've yet to try. I've good things though so to find out if it still is good just give it a try.. and let us know the out come. The OxphoBlue is a parkerizing material and tends to neutralize those tine rust bits at the botom of the pits..  Yes the Water proof papers (silicon carbide) are fine.. but I use the dry only stuff to..aluminum oxide.. The file used in a draw filing method levels and removes the pits. What ever sanding paper used be sure and use a backer..
gunnut69--
The 2nd amendment to the constitution of the United States of America-
"A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed."

Offline stringofpoloponies

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maybe find someone with a cabinet blaster and blast it with some aluminum oxide and spray it with duracoat.  http://www.lauerweaponry.com/

Offline gunnut69

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I've not tried the Duracoat but have heaard nothing but good about it when the directions are followed. OxphoBlue is a Brownells product and is nearly as tough as hot blue though not as dark. It's more the color of a rust blued surface. Powder coat is a different game. The friend who has the 1100 Rem Special Field with so much wear was in with failures to fire. The firiing pin was sticking flush with the buffer. The head of the pin had literally swelled up from the constant battering. Replaced pin, buffer and return spring and all was well but this piece was powder coated many years ago.. about 10 years I suppose. It looked really good! If powder coating works that well for him it should last the average hunter a lifetime...
gunnut69--
The 2nd amendment to the constitution of the United States of America-
"A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed."

Offline oneoldsap

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                      Just wire brush the rust off and paint with Rustoleum , applied with a brush of course !