Painted stock sets, barrels , receivers, etc

[oldsoldja]

Im a autobody man and have my own shop now for 37 years, and if any of you would like something painted, lets say the color of your truck? or wifes eyes? or favorite sports team, or bass boat. Ship it to me and ill have one of my guys do it at cost. Mixing a small amount of paint and clearcoating it at the same time as when they shoot a car, wont cost much. probably 50 to 70 for stock sets and barrels 20 bucks and receivers in brownells black would prob be 10 bucks. then of course theres the shipping both ways. So its just an idea Ive had, Im shooting a shotgun in gloss black , ill post some pics when its done.

ship to Tom Krupica 550 w. colfax street palatine Illinois 60067

[DANNY-L]

Would the paint stick permanently to a alluminum reciever (single shot ithaca shotgun)
I've tried to blue it with a couple different kinds made for alluminum but buffing it with 0000 steel wool takes it right back off.

[Swampman]

I use paint on aluminum parts all the time.  Lately I've been working with baked on high temp grill paint.  If it comes off, a touch-up is really easy.  The semi-gloss looks the best IMO.  I bake the parts at about 150-175 don't tell my wife;)

[oldsoldja]

a light coat of an acid etch primer before paint is best for aluminum, like vari-prime from dupont or vinyl wash from sherwin

[Swampman]

Is that type of primer available in a spray can?

[oldsoldja]

Not that Ive seen, they are 2 part primers, the variprime has a 72 hour life tho, so we mix it up in the afternoons on monday, the guys need it around that time because they are done repairing something from monday and need to prime it, and it will last till thursday afternoon then. which works out good because we usually are done needing it by then. Ive found that most single stage products dont hold up well.

Ill ask my jobber if anyone has one that is only photochemically reactive, then it would start to harden only with adding light.

[Graybeard]

Unless you have an FFL you'll both have to go thru FFL dealers on those receivers. That could be a deal killer. Now if you do then legally I believe they could ship to you without an FFL for repairs/modifications/custom work and then you could return it to them.

[williamlayton]

A weapon being repaired has no need of a FFL to be involved.
Blessings

[oldsoldja]

I was thinking of adding some painted on 'engravings'. could be neat.

[squirrellluck]

My understanding is the one doing the repairs is required to hold an FFL. I believe gunsmiths have to have one.

[Spanky]

A weapon being repaired has no need of a FFL to be involved.
Blessings

WRONG!!




Spanky

[victorcharlie]

A weapon being repaired has no need of a FFL to be involved.
Blessings

I really think you need to check again.  Gun smiths require an FFL.

[Graybeard]

Yup if you function as a gunsmith or do custom firearms work you must have an FFL to accept and return the firearm. A non FFL holder can work with/thru another FFL holder to do work but that's VERY shaky ground to be on. Legally you'd have to fill out the federal form on every firearm you take and then the FFL guy will have to log it thru his books twice. Not many will do such.

If you take guns to repair or cusomize as a gunsmith you MUST have an FFL to be legal.

[bubba.50]

gettin' back to the primers. primers for aluminum have either zinc chromate or phosphate in them. learned this from bow buildin' days but never can remember which.  i have used what is called cold galvanizing followed up with rustoleum flat black with good results. it has the zinc in it. for what it's worth, bubba.

[steg]

I think you guys are right about needing a ffl to do repairs and custom guns, and as to aluminium receivers my Dad did alot of aluminium sheet as a tinsmith, he said you had to give it a strong vinegar wash to get paint to stick, I never tried it tho.....steg