Butts, I got just what you need. Trigger job 1.2lbs and less than .032" travel(smack the stock and it fires), bents chamber, 24" choked, fluted and threaded for a break bull barrel, bedded, floated, polished bolt and firing pin all sitting on a M40 clone stock weighing in at 9.5lbs without the bypod. Not much fun to hunt with or shoot offhand with. Shoots sub moa at 50 yards using match grade ammo, pop can at 200 yards, pie plate at 300 yards and with a little kuntucky windage ( no more milldots ) beachball at 400 yards. Not bad for a 10/22 that started its life in Walmart. All that crap will take a $200 gun and make it a $900 plus gun real fast (not the smartest thing I ever did with my money) . All in all its pretty useless, but cool to play with. My advice to you would be polish the sear and hammer ( dont file ) with a cotton wheel and buffing compound till they look like a mirror at contact points (polish in the direction they travel) . You should be able to get the factory trigger down to 3.5lbs just by polishing. Spray the trigger mechanism and action with teflon dry lube not rem oil or the like as it is the bane of semi auto .22lr's. The factory barrel will blow your mind using wolf extra match ammo and no barrel band. Dont bother with the after market charging handels as they gain you nothing in the realm of accuracy, they just look cool.
By the way, keep the two barrel screws tight by using blue locktite (not red), not all stock 10/22 recievers are created equal and will differ some in tolerance. The slightest movement of the barrel to the reciever will throw your point of impact off. I see alot of folks pick there 10/22's up by the barrel (dont do it if you want to keep zero), the barrel to reciever fit on a 10/22 is the Achilles heel of the design if one desires accuracy. Just my two cents for what it is worth.
