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Offline Sourdough

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Re: lock time
« Reply #30 on: May 19, 2011, 07:48:50 AM »
All the years I have shot a Handi, I have never noticed slow lock time.  Since most of my shooting is from a rest of some type, accuracy is not affected.  To me it is not a player in the things I do to my guns.  The transfer bar not coming fully up is more of a concern to me.  I have a slow, and light, trigger squeeze.  So far that has not happened with any of my handi's.  Have had it happen with other guns.
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Offline geezerbiker

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Re: lock time
« Reply #31 on: May 20, 2011, 09:28:45 AM »
I'm not sure if the lock time on my Handi rifle is a problem, but of all the other rifles I have or remember shooting, my Handi rifle is noticeably the slowest.   If this works out, I'll be doing the same for my Winchester 94 next...

If is just and exercise in to prove how much I can make it better or a needed improvement I can't say.  I shoot it from a rest 90% of the time and it will be gaining a bi-pod soon as well.  I have 2 other varmint rifles and I plan to put bi-pods on them too.  I'm getting old and I'm not as steady as I used to be.  I'll take all the help I can get...

I was going to add a Hornet barrel to this one but last year I pick up a sweet .22 K-Hornet rifle...

Anyway I ordered a couple of hammers and a couple springs that I thought might be useful down the road.  I will be ordering a set of Wolf springs for it when I'm getting closer to installing the lightened hammer and doing a trigger job.

BTW, which is best, the single wound or double wound Wolf springs?

Tony
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Offline bikerbeans

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Re: lock time
« Reply #32 on: May 20, 2011, 09:37:13 AM »
GB,

The newer guns, post 1986, have the single wound spring.  I think, but am not certain, that the double wound hammer spring is for an older type of firearm.

FWIW, I have my friend's 1900 H&R 28 ga that his grandpa bought before WWII.  The hammer spring is original and it  appears stronger than the new Wolff hammer springs I just bought.  It also appears to strike faster than a new Handi but I have no way to measure & verify that claim.

BB
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MINE:  270W, 308x444, 44 Bodeen, 410 shorty rifled slug gun, 445 SuperMag Shikari, 45 ACP shorty,  45-70 Shikari, 45 Cal Smokeless MZ, 50cal 24" SS Sidekick, 50 cal 24" Huntsman, 50 cal 26" Huntsman, 50 cal 26" Sidekick, 50-70 Govt Shikari, Tracker II 20 ga shorty, 20 ga VR Pardner, 20ga USH, 12ga VR NWTF, 12ga Tracker II shorty WITHOUT scope, 12ga USH, 10 ga  Pardner Smoothbore slug gun & 24ga Profino Custom rifled slug gun.

Offline quickdtoo

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Re: lock time
« Reply #33 on: May 20, 2011, 11:20:15 AM »
As BB said, the double coil springs are for older, pre-transfer bar H&Rs, get the single coil for any modern H&R. The model 1900 is a completely different frame, uses a coil spring in the tang, it also has a much small hammer. The pre-transfer bar hammers can be used in modern frames with a double coil spring, they have a half cock notch and are much lower profile, but they have their caveats in that they don't rebound and will remain resting on the firing pin if not pulled to half cock. I have one on my 45-120 BC and on the 35 Remington which is shown in one of the FAQs low profile hammer threads.

Tim
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Offline geezerbiker

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Re: lock time
« Reply #34 on: May 28, 2011, 02:47:58 PM »
The new hammers came in today.  I'm just getting over double pneumonia so I'm not at all energized to go out to the shop and start drilling holes in them. 

When I feel up to being out and about, I'm going to look for just the right screw to use for a hammer extension then I'm going to bob off all unneeded hammer spur...

Tony
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Offline goofyoldfart

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Re: lock time
« Reply #35 on: May 29, 2011, 03:48:55 PM »
Geezer: Don't worry about that hammer right now----Rest and get better. Can't be havin' our Handi Candi Toy Boys fallin' out on us. Gotta keep up on your health so that you can buy more Handi's, doncha know? Get well and God Bless to all. :))
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Offline geezerbiker

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Re: lock time
« Reply #36 on: May 29, 2011, 09:32:06 PM »
I'm only doing what I have to right now...  So all gun stuff other than talking about it is on hold.  Unfortunately I don't have much help with my small business so I have to keep on working at least a little. 

I have a .223 bolt action on layaway at my favorite gun shop and I'm only 50 bucks from picking that one up.  It's going to have to wait too...

Tony
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Offline teddybaham

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Re: lock time
« Reply #37 on: May 30, 2011, 07:10:49 PM »
bolt action = you drilled a hole in the hammer and put a bolt in for an extension right??
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Offline geezerbiker

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Re: lock time
« Reply #38 on: May 30, 2011, 08:15:52 PM »
Nope, the bolt action is another rifle.  I was looking at Handi rifle at my favorite gun shop, then right next to it was a Howa heavy barreled .223 with a laminated stock.  It had been marked down twice and it called to me to give it a home...  As soon as I feel up to driving 50+ miles, I'm going out to get it...

Part of the lock time experiment I have planned is to drill and tap the hammer for a screw to use as a hammer extension.  After that is installed, I'll bob the hammer spur.  I'd like to use a titanium screw but right now I don't have a source for such things.

Tony
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Offline teddybaham

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Re: lock time
« Reply #39 on: May 30, 2011, 08:59:08 PM »
sacralige, how dare you speak of such guns in the sacred handi rifle forum  ;D off with his head!!
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what part of "shall not be infringed" dont you understand???

Offline geezerbiker

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Re: lock time
« Reply #40 on: June 01, 2011, 08:28:14 AM »
I had a little extra energy this morning so I decided to see if I could remember the combination to my safe.  Sure enough, I opened it on the first try...

Anyway I brought out my Handi rifle and placed one of the new spare hammers on the side and found the pin it would pivot on.  Then I marked the amount of hammer that sticks above the action with a sharpie marker. 

I did a little sketching on the one hammer with the marker but there's no way that will show up in pix.   It turns out a NEF hammer is too much for a RCBS loading scale so I drug out our postage scale.  Since it doesn't have a grain setting, I used it in the gram mode.  I'm not sure how accurate this thing is but both hammers weighed in at 35 grams.

I'm hoping to feel well enough in the next few days to get on with the project.  I'm thinking of putting some painters tape on one side so I can mark better where I want to remove metal.  Right now this is looking easy so I'm sure I'm missing something...  ;D

Tony
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Offline OR-E-Gun Bill

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Re: lock time
« Reply #41 on: June 01, 2011, 12:48:46 PM »
Sounds like your weight is pretty accurate compared to the 3 hammers that I just weighed. 34.18, 34.66 and 34.21 grams weighed on the Rangemaster scale. Two are from Brownells and one came out of one of my Handi receivers.

Hope ya get to feeling better soon.

Bill
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Offline geezerbiker

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Re: lock time
« Reply #42 on: June 01, 2011, 03:07:50 PM »
Thanx for the data.  I wouldn't be surprised if my postage scale rounds it off at the nearest gram.  Anyway I'm looking to start removing metal by the end of the week.

BTW Bill, where in OR are you?  I'm up in Cedar Mill west of the People's Republic of Portland... 

Tony
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Offline OR-E-Gun Bill

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Re: lock time
« Reply #43 on: June 01, 2011, 04:58:42 PM »
Quote from: geezerbiker on June 01, 2011, 03:07:50 PM
BTW Bill, where in OR are you?   
 

Head towards the Coast Range from Western Oregon University and my hiding spot is in the foothills, way back towards the Valley of the Giants.  ;)

Bill 
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Offline geezerbiker

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Re: lock time
« Reply #44 on: June 01, 2011, 05:37:16 PM »
Drop me a line if you're ever up this way. 

Tony
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Offline geezerbiker

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Re: lock time
« Reply #45 on: June 07, 2011, 05:13:47 PM »
Well I had a little extra energy this morning so I decided to drill a couple holes in one of the hammers.  About all I achieved was to dull 2 expensive cobalt bits. 

I'm going to look into some diamond tip bits but if this doesn't do it, I will have to anneal and reharden the hammers.  I'm a bit concerned about that because I don't know if the pin sticking out the side is as hard as the rest of the hammer.  About all I know is that it's pressed in...

Tony
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Offline bikerbeans

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Re: lock time
« Reply #46 on: June 08, 2011, 05:22:01 AM »
Tony,

Keep us posted on your drilling project.  I want to drill a hole in a hammer for a different reason so I am very interested in your progress.

BB
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RIP Tom: Tom Nolan, ( bikerbeans) passed away this afternoon (02-04-2021).

Why be difficult, when with a little extra effort you can be impossible?

Wife's Handis;  300 BLKOUT

MINE:  270W, 308x444, 44 Bodeen, 410 shorty rifled slug gun, 445 SuperMag Shikari, 45 ACP shorty,  45-70 Shikari, 45 Cal Smokeless MZ, 50cal 24" SS Sidekick, 50 cal 24" Huntsman, 50 cal 26" Huntsman, 50 cal 26" Sidekick, 50-70 Govt Shikari, Tracker II 20 ga shorty, 20 ga VR Pardner, 20ga USH, 12ga VR NWTF, 12ga Tracker II shorty WITHOUT scope, 12ga USH, 10 ga  Pardner Smoothbore slug gun & 24ga Profino Custom rifled slug gun.

Offline gcrank1

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Re: lock time
« Reply #47 on: June 08, 2011, 05:45:01 AM »
Quick has done some drill&tap,, IIRC.....
I wonder if you 'spot' the hole with a Dremel stone to break through the outer hardening if it might go better?
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Offline quickdtoo

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Re: lock time
« Reply #48 on: June 08, 2011, 06:27:25 AM »
Yup, I've drilled dozens of hammer spurs for hammer extensions as detailed in the low profile hammer mods links in the FAQs,  always anneal first. Carbide tipped bits are made in 1/8" so you wouldn't have to deal with annealing and rehardening, that's too big for the extensions tho, good luck.  ;)
Tim
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Offline geezerbiker

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Re: lock time
« Reply #49 on: June 08, 2011, 06:55:44 AM »
I'm thinking about clamping some copper or brass slabs on the sides of the bottom of the hammer for a heat sink and try to only anneal the parts I want to drill. 

I need to go to the tool store now to replace those 2 cobalt bits and I'll see if they have any carbide or diamond tip bits.  I can write these off as a purchase for my small business and I'm as addicted to tools as I am guns...

How do you go about redoing the heat treating?  I'm more than likely to find some place to send it out to be done...

Tony
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Offline quickdtoo

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Re: lock time
« Reply #50 on: June 08, 2011, 07:06:58 AM »
I just used my 6" bench vise for a heat sink, to reharden I heat to cherry red, quench in used motor oil.

Tim
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Offline cwlongshot

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Re: lock time
« Reply #51 on: June 08, 2011, 12:34:08 PM »
Quote from: geezerbiker on June 08, 2011, 06:55:44 AM
I'm thinking about clamping some copper or brass slabs on the sides of the bottom of the hammer for a heat sink and try to only anneal the parts I want to drill. 

I need to go to the tool store now to replace those 2 cobalt bits and I'll see if they have any carbide or diamond tip bits.  I can write these off as a purchase for my small business and I'm as addicted to tools as I am guns...

How do you go about redoing the heat treating?  I'm more than likely to find some place to send it out to be done...

Tony

Not needed, its only surface hardened. Do as Tim outlined, the dirtier the oil the better. You want a bit over 800 degrees. I like a torch with MAP gas. Watch the color of the metal, its your litmus test as to the temp of the metal, too cold or too warm you will not get desired results.

http://www.muggyweld.com/color.html

CW
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