Veral, I don't have a copy of the instructions to scan and send you but took a couple of pictures of where to pour and the lube points you might be able to use.
If you can't use them or get someone to post the original instructions I'll add for people to just barely touch the lube points with the lube stick. It's not a one time job so lube when things feel like they're starting to drag or when you get the itch. The shiny new mould is going to get grunged up from the lube so expect it and don't worry about it since it's what's on the inside that counts. Be light handed enough to keep the lube out of the cavity.
Just in case a set of real instructions never make their way to this forum and since all of this started because of some nonsense I read on another forum resulting in the usual argument I seem to get involved in when reading what people that don't have a clue what they're talking about write let me say........ The alignment pins will be tight when the mould is new so accept it. DO NOT (let me repeat that in case you missed it) DO NOT start pounding on the pins or taking sand paper to the female alignment holes. What you do is lube the pins and squeeze the handles tight for the first 30 or 40 casts. This is just an arbitrary number so don't get all worked up about it. If you're still having problems a light tap on the side of the handle when the blocks are closed will solve it until the pins seat in. I squeeze the handle tight on a new mould for the first casts out of habit now and only had to tap the side of the handles on one mould and it seated in right away. The pins are tight for a reason and it shouldn't take a MIT engineer to figure it out. If someone suggest beating on the pins or taking sandpaper to it nod a bit like you're paying attention give em a pat on the top of their head and beat tracks away from them as fast as you can. The one thing you Don't want to do is let them get their greasy fingers anywhere near your new mould.
To preheat the mould hold the bottom front edge in the melt for about a 30 count and you should be good to go (this works just as well with iron moulds but don't tell anyone or you'll put the hot plate manufacturers and warped mould theorists out of business). Again the 30 count is arbitrary and it might take a little longer or shorter, the bullets will let you know. Veral suggests that you hold the edge of the mould in the melt for a few seconds, touch the mould stick to the side of it so a little melts on the outside, and once the lube starts smoking test a bullet to see if it's good. If not put the mould back in the pot until it is and start casting bullets. If you hold the mould in longer than necessary and the bullets come out looking like galvanized steel let it cool for a bit and you'll be ready to go. These moulds seem to like heat so if you're reading you don't know what you're doing unless you can cast WW alloy at 650 degrees or have to cast 50 bullets per minute (that's BPM in the forum world for the uninitiated) to keep the mould itself up to proper casting temperature of exactly 379.8 degrees once again nod pat and run. I cast with WWs and set the pot to 780 degrees using a thermometer, works for me.
I use a ladle to cast and imagine it would be the same for a bottom pourer the only difference being that I let the alloy run back into the pot where as a bottom pourer would need something under the mould to catch the runoff. To fill the mould take your ladle with the mould upright and the front edge hanging over the pot and pour in the back of the raised portion of the sprue plate. Let the metal fill both cavities and run off the front left corner of the mould either back into the pot or into your collection device under the mould if bottom pouring. Let the sprue cool and open it. I use either a hardwood hammer handle or a gloved hand to do this, both work. Once again DO NOT hold the ladle or whatever they call that thing that sticks out the bottom of a pot if bottom pouring against the sprue plate holes. Let it fill itself like I described and it'll work great and cast great bullets.
There's no gyrations needed to get an LBT mould working. If your alloy is melted and up to temp you can take a brand new mould out of the box and be casting great bullets in under 2 minutes after attaching the handles. Like I said I have or have had at least 20 of Veral's moulds so feel I have at least a passing knowledge of getting them to run and making them last.
If I forgot anything or my way isn't something Veral would agree with I'm sure he'll set the record straight. Hopefully someone will come through with the real instructions and this can go into the trash but until then this should get someone going along on the right path without having to resort to beating, twisting, washing, boiling, buggering, and possibly destroying a perfectly good mould .
