New mauser build

[olydraft]

I am in the process of building a .308 on a mauser action. I started thinking too hard and started wondering if it would be a bad thing to put a drop of loctite on the barrel threads when I install the barrell... Thanks, Gary

[parkergunshop]

No way, a little oil, but no locktite on barrel threads.
I don't use locktite, for scope mount screws I use fingernail polish instead, mix up the different grades of locktite and you have double trouble when you try to unthread.
 

[Frank46]

Never seize compound or some moly paste only on the bbl threads. you'll need a torch to get the bbl off if you use locktite. Frank

[mauser98us]

I concur with Parker. With those big threads,12V TPI,it,s not gonna unscrew itself.

[olydraft]

That was my thinking also. Like I said I got to thinking too much. I have to stop that, it gets me in too much trouble... Thanks, Gary

[gunnut69]

All correct here. No lock tight on a barrel thread but I do use it on base screw threads, not ring screws, always the removeable blue colored stuff. Comes in a red plastic tube. I have used the permanent stuff when installing rib screws on a muzzle loader under rib. Also when installing small block rocker studs (misspent youth?) a product called stud lock (??) but it could have been something else, was a long time ago. It didn't work by the way but the pins we later installed sure did! I use a product sold by caterpillar called anti seize compound on barrel threads and it does just as advertized.

[Rangr44]

R U lapping the bolt to the lug recess', and squaring the action face to the lugs B 4 fitting the barrel ?   
 
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[parkergunshop]

Ranger44,
1. Check the lug bearing to the receiver bearing surfaces using prussian blue, if the contact is 80 percent on both lugs leave well enough alone.
2. The primary barrel bearing surface for the original Mausers was the inside collar in the receiver, not the front of the receiver.   Interesting most of the military mausers have tighter tolerances and require less work with the receiver threads than many modern actions.
Due to the fact that the early Mausers are made of the steels equal to 1035 are only case hardened, lapping the bolt lugs in can remove enough of the case to require that the receiver and bolt be reheat treated.  The case is normally 5-15 thousanths only.  Removing too much will cause the lugs to set back into the receiver.
Do not automatically lap in the lugs on case hardened actions, this includes the high number double heat treated Springfields, matter of if the fit  is checked as in 1 above, very few actions will need the lugs lapped in.  This is unnecessary in most cases and a way for the gunsmith to make more money for charging for basically doing nothing.
 
 

[mattl]

I have never seen any reason to put loctite on my barrel threads either.  The only Firearm manufacturer that does is Winchester.  As they explain the reasoning of it on their website,
"After polishing, the barrels are screwed back into the receiver for the last time. Lock-tite is used on the threads, not just to keep the barrels on, but mostly to prevent bluing salts from getting into the threads. This is a quality touch ignored by lesser gunmakers."
I can't say that I've ever removed a barrel from a rifle and noticed any kind of damage to the threads from blueing.
MattL

[olydraft]

Bolt lugs are fine and reciever squared.The stock is on the way from Boyds. I got the barrell fro Brownells (.308) and a Bold Opt.98 trigger with saftey. The Bold trigger feels like all you have to do is breath on it for it to release compared to the stock military trigger. I`m trying to do this on a budget. I`m trying to keep it under $350, so far I`m up to $221.. The next project is a 1917 Eddtstone 30/06. all I really need for that is a new trigger system and a nice stock....

[Austin from NC]

I thought Browning used loctite on their threads and it caused the reciever threads to sometimes shear off if you removed the barrel.
       Austin