Stock finish?

[.22-5-40]

Hello, everyone.  An older gunsmith gave me his stock finish formula.  He said it's easy to touch up like a true oil finish..but I wonder if it is a true oil type or not?   a bit less than 1 oz. clear spar varnish, 2-3 drops boiled linseed oil, 2-3 drops turpentine.  He rubs this into a slury using the gray colored scotch brite pad..being careful not to go thru original finish..if he has applied one before.  I think it is probably more like the old "piano" varnish finish of years ago? Thanks!

[Nobade]

Sounds like it. I don't think Tru-Oil has any varnish in it. I believe it is just linseed oil with some very powerful dryers in it to make it hard to use.

[gunnut69]

Actually oil finishes are in reality varnish finishes. Some oils form a varnish when they oxidize. Some call them 'hard oils'. This is what makes WD40 a poor lubricating oil! TruOil contains a blend of oils and urethanes which are the driers I suppose.. It forms that nice deep finish found on many of the older guns such as the M70 (pre-64 version). Being varnishes they are not waterproof.. In the day this was solved by an application of wax. There are finishes from oils that don't oxidize very quickly and really don't set up well. Boiled linseed oil is one of those. In the TruOil it provides the flexibility the finish film needs to avoid crazing and the urethanes speed up the 'drying' process. Linseed oil even the 'boiled' variety will remain gummy for a very long time and will usually soften in hot humid environs. A French oil finish is said to be 'in the wood' rather than on top of the wood. The oil I use for this is called 'OKEENE', it contains pine oil as well as linseed and tung. The 4th oil I disremember just now.. Still it will penetrate like nobodies business and adds another layer the a permium finish or give a final finish resembling a military finish though they were not formed using any such oil. I apply any finish for the first few times anyway to wood that's been heated. This expands the pores and as the wood cools draws in the oil which we keep plentyfully applied to the surface. Two applications like that and most pores are well filled. I've tried the sanding process to fill the pores and it works but extreme care must be taken to avoid changing any of the carefully defines stock contours and edges. Those are the true mark of a pro. Also some sanding grit is left in the pores and that is really hard on checkering tools. All oil finishes need a coat of wax to really shed water. Stock fillers commonly sold for gunstock work contain silica and that's death to checkering tools so the simplest is the best in my humble opinion, just fill the pores with the material the finish is going to be made from. And remember keep sharp edges sharp and curved edges flowing and even.. and what some forget- keep flats flat. No depresions or waves!!