Author Topic: Barrel break-in. Uh oh (Read 778 times)

llbts1 · « **on:** January 06, 2004, 05:50:45 PM »

:oops: Okay, I guess I screwed up. Got a new Ruger M77 in stainless. Not realizing that a barrel needs to be broken in, I go to the range and put 20 rounds through her. Now I see from reading here that the barrel needs to be broken in. At this point, is it considered to late to break in the barrel? Is there anything at this point that can be done? Am I looking at that much loss in accuracy? Oh yeah, and before I got to this forum I was using the 3-piece aluminum cleaning rod that comes in the cheap cleaning kits. Considering I only used it once to clean this rifle(15-20 patches), would there be any likely of any damage to the bore? I tried real hard to be as careful as possible, but the rod did not have a bore guide. I wouldn't think there would be any damage considering the barrell is stainless and the rod is aluminum but I'm just learning this stuff and guess I have started off on the wrong foot. Please let me know. Thank You, Larry

KN · « **Reply #1 on:** January 06, 2004, 08:12:01 PM »

The best way I have found to break in a barrel is "SHOOT IT". I have not been able to tell any difference in rifle accuracy between a barrel that was "broken in" and one that is shot 100rds and cleaned on a regular basis. Unless a barrel is experiencing excessive fouling I don't even worry about it. My prarie dog guns go as much as 300 rds before I clean them. and thats just because thats where I decided to clean them. Not that they really needed it. Accuracy suffering is usually the best indication that its time to clean. In my oppinion, if a barrel won't go at least 100rds before accuracy suffers, then it needs work. As far as the alluminum rod, DONT USE IT! Aluminum oxidizes, creating what is known as aluminum oxide. The same stuff they make sand paper out of. Invest in a good stainless steel one piece rod, you'll be glad you did. I have about a half dozen of them in different lengths and callibers. KN

John Y Cannuck · « **Reply #2 on:** January 07, 2004, 12:43:28 AM »

I agree with the above.
But I'll add, try not to over heat the barrel.
My break in theory:
What you are trying to achieve is to get the tool marks etc worn off, without causing damage to the rest of the barrel in the process.
Lapping does a lot of this, and is why it's favored by the best barrel makers. You can accomplish much the same thing by shooting, it just takes a bit longer. Plus, you get to shoot more!
Clean your gun reasonably frequently during the first few hundred rounds. Remember, you are wearing off the sharp corners in the rifling, no need for those microscopic pieces to scratch the bore.
Failing a one piece rod for cleaning, There are sectional brass rods available, get one of fairly large diameter, and get a bore guide please.
I doubt you've done a lot of damage yet, but don't add to it.

Dave in WV · « **Reply #3 on:** January 07, 2004, 03:28:40 AM »

IMHO breaking in a barrel is removing the copper build up after a few shots until the barrel smooths up some. This just makes the job easier if done more frequently. Stainless factory barrels are rougher than carbon ones as the norm. My Ruger's barrel was rougher than my Winchester's. It took longer for the Ruger's barrel to not get fouled as easy so I just cleaned it more often. You do want to get as much of the copper out as you can because the barrel can rust under the copper build up in time. Stainless barrels can rust. I just clean them after say three shots for the first fifty rounds. After you get you barrel cleaned just do it often for a while. Dave

gunnut69 · « **Reply #4 on:** January 07, 2004, 07:34:25 AM »

I agree with the above for the most part. I don't breakin a barrela nd believe it is mostly rubbish... The aluminum rods have 2 problems- the aluminum is SOFTER than the barrel(I'll explain that later) and the joints. The soft metal allows abrasive particles to embed and the rod becomes a lap. It will wreak havoc in a barrel... I've seen rifles ruined while undergoing the barrel 'breakin' process. The joints exacerbate the problem by weakening the rod, allowing it to flex easier, rubbing against the interior of the barrel. Brass is nearly as bad as aluminum(it's fairly soft) and joints are always a bad thing. Jointed rods are really good only as emergency aids. To clear a barrel plugged accidentally or one that's damp. The best cleaning rods are stainless steel(rust is a powerful abrasive) and 1 piece. One piece for the strength and there are fewer edges. If a hard material is used for the rod it must not have edges that could damage the bore. Large diameter rods are a real boon as they resist flexing and keeping any rod away from the bore is a good thing. And bore guides should be madatory. Except in emergency situations where we are clearing the bore don't clean wihtout a guide. Now for something I'm sure will start a firestorm, coated rods. Why coat a rod? It reduces the diameter of the metal portion of the rod which is what resists flexing. It's softer than the barrel steel, allowing it to be a lap if imbedding occurs. They are advertised to 'resist embedding'. That means they will embed it's just more difficult. More difficult than what? Stainless steel?? Buy a good stainless steel rod with a ball bearing handle(makes following the rifling a lot easier). Knock the edge off the end of the rod, just roll the edge with a shapening stone or diamond steel. Get a good bore guide, there are several on the market. Even rifles which must be cleaned from the bore should be cleaned with a guide in place. These cone shaped guides still leave the chance of damage to the crown to the person doing the cleaning, they will elliminate funneling of the muzzle often seen on these rifle. Clean the rod each time it's put in the bore and withdrawn... I sometimes in more paranoid moments believe the coated rods only reason for existance is to make something cheaper which they can sell for more, just to improve the bottom line... They wouldn't do that,,,,would they?

Bullseye · « **Reply #5 on:** January 07, 2004, 01:25:34 PM »

I just shoot my barrels to break them in. Until recently I used to shoot them without even cleaning them from the factory. I do clean a new barrel now before shooting it, but I cannot say that I have seen any great difference in accuracy.

As far as the cleaning rod, I would not worry about it. I cleaned my guns for over ten years with 3 pc. aluminum rods and cannot see where I hurt them. I do now use a stainless rod after reading about them here and I have no doubt they are better, but I would not worry about it if I were you. I still use a 3 pc rod, just made of stainless steel. I can understand about the joints but the rod I use is by Pro-Shot Products and the joints are so smooth that I cannot see it causing a problem. One rod that I could adjust the size between pistols and rifles fit my budget much better.

llbts1 · « **Reply #6 on:** January 07, 2004, 06:33:54 PM »

Just wanted to thank you folks for replying to my post. I feel better. (I am a little uncomfortable knowing I used that aluminum rod, but can only hope for little to no damage on that barrel) I am going to start looking for some S/Steel rods tomorrow. Any Ideas on brands? Thanks again, Larry

llbts1 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 08, 2004, 01:44:39 PM »

Any recommended brands on bore guides and SS rods? And where to buy them on the web? I saw a bore guide from Stoney Mountain today at Bass Pro Shops. I also saw something that I was wondering if it really worked? It was a Foul Out III from Outers. Any idea on this product? Thanks, Larry

gunnut69 · « **Reply #8 on:** January 09, 2004, 04:54:05 AM »

I use a mixture of rods and find little difference other than those with ball bearings in the handles are better. As to guides I've used nearly all and have switched to the universal models. They really aren't universal but do cover a large percentage of the rifles that come thru my shop. I've a FoulOut system(older model) and they work just fine. In effect they reverse plate the metal from the bore to a rod inserted in the bore. There are problems.. The fouling in a rifle tends to build up in layers of powder and jacket metal fouling. The FoulOut will remove the jacket metal but not the following layer of powder fouling. Also there is a time factor involved. Chemical cleaners are quicker although not as thorough. I end up cleaning as good as is possible with a rod, before switching to the FoulOut. Even then it often requires a couple of trips back to the rod if the bore started out really bad... If you want a rifle really and truly clean, do the best you can with a rod and Sweet's 7.62, then use a foulout type system... It will remove the very last traces of metal faouling, but just metal fouling, from your bore. I don't believe a light cleaning with a jointed soft metal rod will do major damage. The bore I'd seen was from a 'new' barrel which had been broken in with a shoot clean system and cleaned with a jointed aluminum rod and no guide. The result was a destroyed throat. Also I've seen many Savage 99's with the bores at the muzzle damaged from cleaning. Any rifle that's difficult to clean from the breach is a candidate for this klind of wear. The rifling is quite literally worn away from the muzzle for about 1/2 to 1 inch. The result is very poor accuracy.. As to where to buy, I have not found a cheaper outlet than 'D&R Sports'. Don't know if they have a website but their catalog is a wish book...