How do you fix a crooked sling stud.

[STUMPJMPR]

Well I screwed up and got one slightly crooked.  I had an old practice stock that I practiced drilling straight holes on and they all came out good.  Next I put a studs on a cheap single shot.  It came out good.  Then it was time for my new Henry.  I lined it up in my drill press and everything looked good.  I didn't realize I had a slight cant to one side.  Well it's slightly canted to one side.  I couldn't tell until it got down to the counterbore on the bit and one side cut quicker than the other.  Should I leave it or try to fix it?  Is it fixable?

[Frank46]

Looks like murphy was on that one. You could get some 3/8 dowel stock from lowe's or home depot and open up the existing hole to 3/8" and glue it in. Color or stain to match your stock after sanding down to the stocks contour and stain the dowel. Then redrill the hole. I have a springfield sporterized "C" stock that had a bunch of holes drilled in it for sling swivels. And thats what I did. Hope this helps. Frank

[STUMPJMPR]

I may end up leaving it be.  It looks straight from the top side.  You actually have to look from the butt forward to notice.  I'll probably do more damage trying to fix it than leaving it.

[oneoldsap]

             When you want to drill and fill a hole , use a cut plug , not a dowel . With a cut plug you have side grain instead of end grain , that will take stain like the wood around it and will blend right in if the grain is near the same . Even if it won't totaly blend it will look 1,000% better than end grain ! You want a 3/8" Forstner bit to drill your hole with , and of course 3/8" plugs . Go slow , and use Tite Bond glue only .

[Rangr44]

I would remove the stud, and just drill a new hole straight, starting in the center of the counterbore ( I clamp the stock & use a drill press).
 
Then, liberally coat the stud threads with car paste wax, fill the now "Y-shaped" hole 3/4-full of epoxy, and seat the waxed stud, ensuring it's held square, etc, until the epoxy sets.
 
The wax will enable the stud to be unscrewed if desired, and the top should hide any epoxy in the hole.
( I also apply the paste wax to stock around the hole prior to pouring in the epoxy)
 
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