Going on a varmint hunt in Feb, advice?

[Gdbyrd]

I've got a 6k acre deer lease that I have access to year round, and I've planned a hunt in Feb for me and a buddy.  I picked up a couple mouth calls: the lil dog and the mini howler..and I've been practicing with them both.


I just don't know how to setup and do this.  I've never hunted anything with calls.  And I've never done this type of hunting.  My reading seems to make me think I'm going to have trouble doing it on this much land too.


I've only hunted the southern parts of the land.  And I've heard two different sets of yotes out there.  So I have a general idea where to setup.  But this is the smallest portion of the lease, I know the lay of the rest of the land but have no clue where the dogs are there.


The brush is very thick, and there are paths cut into it called scenderas.  I'm thinking we sit back to back.  I call and we wait and see what comes out.  We also have blinds setup everywhere...would it be worth a shot to sit in the blinds and try there?  Be hard to call from there though. 


How far away should I park my vehicle?


How long do you sit/call at a stand?


Like I said, there's so much land.  Do we just try to divide it up into quadrants and conquer?


The hunt is for two days only.  We'll both be using scoped ar15s.  The max hunting distances can be far...sometimes over 600 yards, and there are some open prairie type places too..so there's a lot of variation to the landscape. 


I just hope we each get a yote or two to skin and tan as a keepsake, lol.


Do you have anymore advice for me?

[Ladobe]

With no previous experience calling predators, knowing their behaviors, how to choose where and how to approach/set up in it, how to call and change it with the flow, and a very long list of other critical factors, I wouldn't set my sights too high on a fur coat first time out.   There are a few so called "dumb" coyotes as per se, but they don't survive very long.
 
Answering your questions with all the ramifications possible/probable with each would take pages and pages to do, and even with that wouldn't cover all the bases.  And a key point... what has worked for one hunter doesn't mean it will work for your circumstances.   Each situation is unto its own, can change on a moments notice and if you can't meet that challenge most likely you will loose the opportunity.   You are after one of the smartest adversaries there is in nature one on one, pitting your skills against theirs.   They have all the abilities to out smart even the most experienced predator hunter if he doesn't have the knowledge and skills to change with any situation that unfolds.  IOW, hunting Bambi is child's play in comparison.
 
I'm not a book reader, but I would suggest you buy a few "good" calling videos as a lot can be picked up from them quickly if they are well done.   Those specific to the same types of habitat/area of the country you'll be calling would probably help the most as tactics do often have to change for them.   Far too many videos have been done to list, but some are certainly far better than others.   With where and habitats I could offer some suggestions though.
 
I did predator and varmint hunting/ADC seriously for over 50 years every chance I got, was quite successful at it, but still had my share of failures right up to the last hunt.  It's a never ending learning process, and anyone who says they know it all even after decades of doing it are not being honest with themselves, or you.   There is good reason why it takes more than just the basics to score more often than not.   
 
BTW, do you have a 6'-8' wooden step ladder? 
 
 

[SHOOTALL]

Call soft at first for a few min. Go loud if you get no reaction with soft. Try to set up so the wind is comming from your best view . Approach with wind in your face. Ladobe has good advice I only offer a place to start. 600 yards is a long shot with a box stock AR in 223. In the East if you don't hear a critter or see one after 20-30 min move . Out West might be different.
 Get some CD's of yote hunting and watch to learn their set up etc.
We see alot more Bobcats and Fox than song dogs but they do come to the calls when in the area.
One thing that works in high populated areas with most critters is take a stand and watch , here yotes get active about an hour before dark .

[Gdbyrd]

Ladobe:  I do have a ladder.  Why?  I understand it's all going to be totally different, but some of your setup experiences would be helpful!  I've watched a lot of videos on youtube as well as several of the videos primos has published.


It should make for an interesting trip.  No one in the area does any predator hunting.  What's better is no one goes up there after January 15(when buck season ends).  So the area should be very settled down.  And I don't think the coyotes should be used to the calls at all.


Shootall:  Sorry, I shoulda clarified.  There are areas where the visibility stretches to 600 yards through the thick brush.  We won't be shooting those distances, was trying to emphasize that it's going to be hard to spot them and I'm worried about the difficulty associated with calling them in.


I've read and seen in videos that when they come out you stop with hand calls, I'm assuming because they'll see your movement and skeedaddle...They use mouth calls to make a rodent squeak to get them in.  I bought a few mouth calls and I cannot get them to work, I have a really overlarged tongue...and I almost wonder if that makes it hard.  Do they make like a squeeze type of thing I can do with my hand that'll make that sound?


The guy from Primos says he always starts out with a howl.  Do you guys find that that works?  I have a hard time making a consistent good howl with the mini howler.  The lil dog I can do well, but it sounds like a pup call..and this is the wrong time of year for pups isn't it?

[Ladobe]

{quote]Ladobe:  I do have a ladder.
 
That question was because you said thick brush and shooting lanes in your first post.   An excellent tool for that kind of habitat and situation is a step ladder setup slightly down and cross wind from the direction you think they will come from, and so you are not "skylighted" when on it.   Pick a tree/bush behind you that will break up your lines IOW.   The ladder will get you higher for better visibility farther.    Seeing them before they suspect you should always be your goal when calling.   As long as you stay still on top of the ladder you won't be paid anymore attention to than curiosity even if seen as a coyote approaches.   No need for camo... I made it 50 years without wearing camo for any kind of hunting, including archery.   So IMO its not needed for any predator hunting either - many camo patterns at distance just become a dark blob anyway.   Coyotes can only distinguish shades of white to black, blue and yellow, so I just wore earth or subtile tones that were not too bright or reflective, black if I was setting up in lava flows, and with my traditional muzzleloaders just my rendezvous persona leathers.   The latter was my favorite, mountainman persona leathers, sidelock muzzleloaders and mouth calls I made my self.   That's what all my last hunts were done with, so they will always be remembered as the best.  Anyway, to prove the point about camo, at a hunt years ago in AZ sponsored by another forum a gent did the ladder thing wearing a full Santa Claus suit to call coyotes.   He shot two on the first stand I think.
 
I don't want to get too deep into this, or to try to suggest how to use all the calls and sequences, but I'll post some basics.   Just keep in mind that every stand may be different with different requirements to go with the flow of... and that there is way more to learn.
 
If you don't have your calls mastered, do so before you go hunt.   Every time your busted by them you are educating them and will make it much harder to get another opportunity at them later.   Enclosed reed calls are very easy to learn, open reed take practice to get all the possible sounds out of them, but most can get good enough to start using them in one or two evenings of practice (if the wife doesn't brain you first).   Anybody can do a lip squeak, with their lips only, sucking on the back of their hand or fingers, etc.   I've brought even skittish coyotes in from hundreds of yards with them alone.   Don't over call, less is better than too much!
 
Practice in blowing your calls is all you'll get though if in a place with no predators within earshot.   So it's always best to scout at least 2-3 days or longer before the hunt.   Look for sign, evidence there is actually predator activity in an area and how much, where their travel lanes are, and that their prey is actually present there.   While it may be true you find a rabbit where you find it, all animals are territorial to at least some extent and have preferred feeding, bedding and potty areas that you can learn to recognize.   A spot found, decide now where you think they will approach from, which direction the wind will be from at the time of your hunt (often opposite early and late day) and pick a slightly down and cross wind stand that commands at least 180 degree of the area that is also a little elevated if possible.   Then decide now how you will get in your stand without crossing the playing field.
 
The above also reflects the time on stand to some extent along with which species of predator.   Some folks stay way too long, some not long enough for all of them IMO.   The canines are usually the fastest to respond, and depending on the circumstances I'd give a stand at least 15 and as long as 30  minutes if you are confident they are there.   The felines often mean a long stand, bobkitties not as long as lions.   But I plan on up to 45  minutes for bobs and as long as twice that for lions if I know they are actively in the area.   Some sneak in fast but hold up at a natural border mostly hidden to survey the situation, and it can take a long time for them to decide to proceed or sneak back out.  And it can also take a long time for you to see them when hung up.   Probably more import than any other game hunting you need to train your eyes to look for colors, patterns or shapes out of place, and for only a small part of the animal.
 
When you know they are approaching... how far out dictates what your actions will be.   But generally don't call at all anymore unless you have to do so to keep them coming, and only sparingly even then.   Even from great distances away a lip squeak when they stop is usually enough to keep them interested and get them coming again if loud enough to carry in the wind.   It's not unusual for them to stop on the way in many times, but from their body language or vocalizations you can tell if they are just being wary, they are loosing interest, they are yielding to another coyote you may not have seen, or they are spooked about coming any further.   With the latter now is the time for your shot if you have the confidence to make it as your only other opportunity will probably be them running at even greater distances.   If they hold up you will have to call again, how loud and with what depends on how far they are still away.   Even so don't call anymore than you have to and use the lip squeak first.   If that doesn't work, sometimes switching sounds will get them moving again.   For example if you had been using a distress call a coyote vocalization usually works.   A simple pup bark, female whimper won't spook or rile them, a challenge may.   You want them to think a strange coyote is on "their" prey and turf.   But you can also switch to a totally different prey distress or other sound as well.   They say curiosity killed the cat, but who ever came up with that must not have known about canine behavior.  Just always start out with lower volume when you've seen one approaching... their body language will tell you if they heard it.   If not go a little louder until they respond.   Almost any sound can stop one for the shot, even unnatural sounds.   I've used Halloween clickers, toy kazoo's, slide whistles, a bark, etc.   Just be on them and ready for the shot as they may not stop for long.
 
Here in the west shots can be long, very long, especially on the ranches/farms I did ADC for where the ranch/farm hands had taken pot shots at them.    But my goal was always to get them in as close as the terrain allowed for the shot (and only one shot to anchor them).   Sometimes that was 4-5-600 yards away, sometimes less than 10.   Quite a few times over the years I've had coyotes and fox actually run right into me or run across my legs, bobkitties within maybe 10-12 feet, lions as close as 20-30 feet and once a badger I shot with a 36 cal side lock rifle at about 30 yards got all the way to my feet before I could stop it with my backup 45 cal side lock pistol.
 
Rambled on long enough... maybe some of it will help.   

[Glanceblamm]

If that doesn't work, sometimes switching sounds will get them moving again.   For example if you had been using a distress call a coyote vocalization usually works.   A simple pup bark, female whimper won't spook or rile them, a challenge may.   You want them to think a strange coyote is on "their" prey and turf.   But you can also switch to a totally different prey distress or other sound as well.   They say curiosity killed the cat, but who ever came up with that must not have known about canine behavior

Very well said and when you change up the calls, you are offering something different to each member of the pack. I like the lighter calling (read dont overcall) but when that old alpha male speaks up with the short barks and howls I will heckle the dickens out of him with the Challenge. In general, you won't always see the whole animal at first but rather a streak here or a flash of fur there as they utilize the avalible cover to close in on your position. Once I know that they are hunting me, I might do some very light coaxing but will often shut up and watch because they are going to get around to showing theirselves.
 
Sometimes you are going to see them and they can be "poetry in motion" as they run low on their belly or zig-zag using every stitch of cover they can find to get close. This is really no suprise as Stealth is essential if they want dinner. They are trying to get behind you of course but you are controlling the game speaking just enough to keep them interested. What you (or I) am doing at this time is using my full pheriprial vision to look at everything in general, and nothing in particular in order to pick up movement.
 
Sometimes they are going to get past your shooting lane and pick up your scent in the slip-stream. when you see this happen, the Coyote will make a few stiff jointed steps then turn at right angles and hit the breeze at what appears to be 40 mph. If you are composed, you can sometimes get on the distress and stop them just long enough for the shot. I like high percentage shots because a miss is going to greatly educate them to the call. I do have way's to deal with the educated Coyote but I figure it is far better to let that Coyote run instead of hastening it's retreat with a shower of lead.
 
Dont get buried in the brush too deeply (read the part about the ladder) or you may have them bouncing off your chest before you can even think about touching a rifle. I do not own a ladder (figurativley) and will often be laying prone among the brush and stubble with good shooting lanes or perhaps will be standing tight against a group of the stunted hedge or dogwood trees. The Coyotes here really do not like to cross the wide open and my stand selection is semi-open but near that drainage or wooded finger so they can close in on me in comfort. My prefered stance is to be sitting with my back up against something solid. One thing to keep in mind is that if you are right handed, you cannot swing the rifle in that direction so I always sit cocked to the right a bit.
 
One fine point (on the ladder) is that I would not be allowed to use it here due to the DNR regulations which prohibit calling predators from the likes of an elevated stand. Kind of silly since I can hunt them 365 days a year but regs are regs and I will stay in compliance. Might be worth checking your own regs as a $75 ticket would ruin your day for sure. Here in IL, a deer hunter with permit in hand is allowed to shoot Coyotes from such stands.
 

I'd give a stand at least 15 and as long as 30  minutes if you are confident they are there.   

Ditto and I could write a book of senario's on getting into the location and the time spent there depending on what is happening.
 
Please dont read these lines too hard as this is great fun and sucess is going to come with experience. I know of a 13 yr old boy who had a thin strip of cloth attached to a stick out in front of him flapping in the breeze and got on the first time out with just a squaller. (Decoy's-another subject). To get the older wary ones to come in can take some practice though.
 
To get back to your question:
 
Yes, leave that truck out of sight...and dont slam the doors.
Do not talk with your buddy on the way in.
And please do let the area quiet down some before you start calling. Sometimes you are going to be moving light and quick hitting several sites but again If You Are Confident That The Coyotes Are There, I may be set up a good half hr in advance. Theory is that if you are seen on the way in, the attention span of the predator might be such that it will forget that it even saw you once you are hidden away for a while.