Author Topic: Handloading for a 20 gauge Pardner  (Read 744 times)

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Offline Catshooter45

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Handloading for a 20 gauge Pardner
« on: March 07, 2012, 04:28:25 PM »
I'm thinking about starting to handload for this light little gem (I'm not new to the art).
 
However, I want to use the Mag-Tech all-brass cases and the old style wadding.  Where do I find data?  I wouldn't mind using plastic shot cups, but I doubt I'll be able to find some that will fit the very large inside diameter of the brass.
 
Any insight for me?  Thanks.
 
 
Cat

Offline Couger

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Re: Handloading for a 20 gauge Pardner
« Reply #1 on: March 07, 2012, 05:20:29 PM »
I'm thinking about starting to handload for this light little gem (I'm not new to the art).
 
However, I want to use the Mag-Tech all-brass cases and the old style wadding.  Where do I find data?  I wouldn't mind using plastic shot cups, but I doubt I'll be able to find some that will fit the very large inside diameter of the brass.
 
Any insight for me?  Thanks.  Cat

Contact Ballistic Products.  They have the most data I'm aware of - of all kinds for making handloads.  BP also carries felt, fiber, cardboard and plastic wads/wadding.  They also have Mylar Wraps  that could be used to wrap around a shot column, versus plastic wads or shot cups.
 
I wouldn't go the brass case route, although there's nothing wrong with that method.  If I used brass cases I'd make the wad column by hand, rather than use one-piece wads.

Offline mcwoodduck

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Re: Handloading for a 20 gauge Pardner
« Reply #2 on: March 07, 2012, 05:26:13 PM »
The only insite I can give you is start with plastic hulls Win AA or Remington Premier and get over your learning curve.
I have loaded a few brass huills (12 ga) but I had been loading black powder paper hulls for a while before attempting the brass hulls.
Get a Mec Size master. 
Get a BOOK that has brass hulls.  Taking a load for plastic hulls and even changing plastic hulls can cause problems.
 
If for what ever reason you are dead set on Brass hulls, then you should do it in either Balck powder or one of the subsitutes (pyrodex, .....)   You will need ot measure out the powder charge  and be able to measure out the shot charge.
You will need over the powder cards, fiber wads, and over the shot cards.  and a little glue or wax to seal the over the shot card in.
 

Offline Catshooter45

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Re: Handloading for a 20 gauge Pardner
« Reply #3 on: March 08, 2012, 12:56:54 PM »
Thanks gentlement, that helps.
 
 
Cat

Offline RPRNY

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Re: Handloading for a 20 gauge Pardner
« Reply #4 on: March 08, 2012, 01:47:15 PM »
Mcwoodduck has given you good advice and truthful advice, but be aware that the issue is not that plastic hull loads will be dangerous in even the thin Magtech brass hulls, but that they will be rather anaemic, especially given the issue with wads. You can still use plastic shot cups, but you need to get oversized nitro and felt cards to "stablize" the shot cup. You will then use oversize overshot cards fixed with waterglass or Duco cement. These types of loads will run lower pressures and consequently lower velocities if simply substituting plastic hull loads. There are smokeless loads that will work well. But you should indeed contact BPI and use data for brass hulls. I f you don't already have the Magtech shells, Rocky Mountain cartridge has better brass (the best there is) as well as a brass loading kit that, while not rocket science, will save time and effort. They will also have load data.
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Offline gcrank1

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Re: Handloading for a 20 gauge Pardner
« Reply #5 on: March 13, 2012, 05:55:32 AM »
I got into the 20 a few years ago; like you I think it is a gem. I started with an H&R then stumbled across a Spanish SxS and an Italian O/U, each under 6# loaded. What a nicely matched gauge to those! Now, after braggin', to your question; I have an old Lee hand-pounder die set for if I 'just gotta make something', but as cheap as I can get field loads on sale, I cant 'afford' to reload. Not in money, components and time.
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