Factory or Custom, Cheap or Pricey

[gcrank1]

Inspired as I was by this forum, I started digging all my blades out and reviewing (and using) them. Some I have 'inherited', some commissioned, some bought on a whim., some are old originals......you all know how it goes......
The kitchen is a good try-ground for me, along with carrying those better suited for utility to use as needed around the homestead. I have fallen into the same old carry knives for so long that I feel 'necked' without them, even though they arent the nicest or prettiest, but there they are when I need to cut something.
I surely have developed preferences on blade shape, thickness, grinds, etc. for my typical uses, and the heavies dont really suit me. I will grab a saw or axe if the going is tough, and if my 'plane crashes' I guess I wont have a big 'bushcrafter' with me.......so be it.
The customs are nice, but I just dont tend to carry them except for special events, and the less expensive ones get the greater use (if decent steel and edge holding, etc.). In review, for outdoor use I guess I could happily get along with a Puukko, or any good 'butcher' in 4-5" and a smaller 'paring' knife size as a Bird & Trout with a Stockman or SAK in my pocket. Gee....I have them already, wouldnt even have to buy anything.
Maybe I should throw all on a 'show table this fall and see what comes up left over and go on from there?

[BUGEYE]

I don't think you can improve on an "american made" shrade sharp finger.  I've carried mine since time began.

[Dee]

My favorite everyday, don't leave home without it, is a McHenry & Williams Benchmade 710. It's the best pocket I have ever owned. For a sheath knife, I have a bunch, but Richard, aka AtlLaw, sent me a Green River that he scaled, and made a sheath just for me, and personalized the sheath even more with Cherokee, that has taken the place of all of my other sheath knives. The knife is a perfect fit, and it just feels, and looks right.

[gcrank1]

I have admired Richard's work on that and Im sure you are honored to have it. I passed a plain wood scaled version some years back on a trade blanket at a 'voo because I had an old original '6 -pin scalper' in 5" that has been a lot of miles with me, but I have regretted passing it up. Just which model (from maybe Track of the Wolf's selection) is it?
Lately Ive been using a  'personal chef' type made ( pretty much a 4" triangular blade) from an old trap spring, c/w the ring still on the end of the tang; it works pretty nice in the kitchen and I know I could do about everything with it.

I have looked at that 'Sharp Finger' model off & on through the years too, seemed a good value and good steel. I also have an old original made from a file that is very much like that blade sweep and has a bone handle. It is pointy enough to choke up and use the tip for fine work and long enough to 'reach in' if needed. All in all, a pretty good design for multi uses.

[Dee]

All I can make out on the blade is RUSSELL, Green River Works, Made in USA, and the #421. It like the Benchmade takes a scary edge, and seems to hold it, although I haven't used it all that hard.
The blade is beginning to age with use, and is showing signs of taking a really nice color to it.

[gcrank1]

Sure.....I have enough.......uh huh......
So today I took a cheap import, but sturdy, .078 thick x 9"long blade slicing knife (with a convex grind) I found at the 'recycle center' (we used to call it 'the dump'), it was in the metals bin and looked hardly used. Ive followed the adventures of G.W. Sears for some years, and had a good friend and craftsman make me a fine Nessmuk pattern knife from his print in the classic 'Woodcraft and Camping' which I have been using for a year or so. Horace Kephart was ,arguably, the next most influential in gear for the trail, and his 'Camping and Woodcraft' was a fine followup on George Sears. I never had a 'Kep' pattern knife, so this was finally the time to make one. The Magic Marker and Dremel made short work of 'trimming the blade (which is 1" wide) into that 'spear point' he favored for many years. The file, diamond stones and fine paper used for a few hours on what appears to be 'HC-SS' has resulted in a pretty good example. I gave it a rough 'shaving edge this aft and will put it to use in the kitchen for a few days and see what she has to offer in a comparison with the Nessy.
Total investment in a usable, but somewhat homely knife, -0-  ,.......(works for me, Im 'frugal') .

Kep use update: after a few days of all round kitchen testing it has done pretty well. Basically I have used it only as slicer, dicer and spatula, etc., as Kep would have in the field. It has done it all, though not everything the best. I can say I would not be disappointed to have it on an excursion, but would want my Stockman, or other more pointy blade (as Kep did also) for those jobs the spearpoint isnt suited at all to. I do wonder why he didnt just use a Green River style Dadley rather than having a knife special made, but he, like many of us, may have liked the idea of having a local Appalachian blacksmith do one up for him. There is a plethora of info on the Kepthart online, if anyone isnt familiar with it or him; good stuff!

Update: Im not as fond of the 'large spearpoint' tip as maybe Kep was, it surely works but I like having a pointy tip right there and not having to dig out another knife to get it. A Dozier (?) droppoint would probably suited Kep pretty well too, I think.
Another 'pattern' with some history behind it is the Dall Deweese; Marble's made them 1907-1930 something, IIRC, and I can easily modify the top spearpoint curve of the Kephart to the straight clip of the Deweese to give it a turn on the cutting board. The Russell's Green River 'Hunter' is quite similar, but with a 5" blade. Im certainly happy with the 4" blade length as an all rounder, and even a 3 or 3 1/2 would probably be fine.. Because of that I just may be re-modifying my blade again.

[schoolmaster]

I'm having good luck with a Mora knife I bought off of Ebay for $6.50. It has a taped up plastic sheath and I spent several hours over two evenings fixing the nicks and reprofiling the blade back to the proper angle with a diamond hone. It is my truck knife and is there when I need it. It has performed several cutting chores admirably. I have a handful of pocket knives that I keep in a cigar box next to my hat for everyday use. Some are stockmans, some are single blades, Schrade, Buck, Bear and sons, Buck creek,  are a few. When the hat goes on the head, I pick a knife out of the box for that day.

[gcrank1]

I was thinking of asking if you close your eyes and grab one out of the box, but then thought that you, like I, can identify each one by feel anyway. Still, I kinda like the box, it would mix it up a bit and make you use whichever one you have chosen. Good idea!

[schoolmaster]

Nope, no eye closing. In fact, I study them a bit and one of them will call to me and thats the one that gets to go. I may carry the same one for several days then change up. Oh and when I get tired of that box, I switch boxes.

[BUGEYE]

I have the usual kitchen knives,  but I really like my 4" and 8" filet knives for kitchen work.

[gcrank1]

Oh No!.....you just reminded me of another one lurking in the garage with my old fishing gear! I think its a 6" Rapala and I havent fished in years.......time to dig.
Then I found another made from a railroad spike in my toolbox and a 'Boy Scout type in a vest pocket.........
This is almost like Christmas except I recognize 'em when I see 'em  .

[inthebeech]

I agree completely.
I started making knives at about the time that Schrade Old Timers started to become scarce in local hardware stores.  Through all of my testing (as a mechanical engineer with access to destructive testing machines, hardness testers, and spectrographic analysis units) and just under fifty bladesd later, I haven't found anything that is much superior to Schrade's faithful old 1095 steel; I'd give a slight edge to 5160 and for larger blades there's a couple of Tool Steels that I'd go to, but you can't do much better than a knife ground from a Nicholson or Simonds file and commercially that means an Old timer such as the Sharp Finger.  And the difference between my $50 and my $250 dollar blades has almost nothing to do with performance.

[gcrank1]

Thanx for that......I always figured the 'old Timers' would 'always' be around. IIRC they had two models, the upswept and a drop point? Its gun show season here so Im gonna keep my eyes peeled (pun intended).
Was that 1095 what Chicago Cutlery used to use on their kitchen sets?

[Joel]

I've owned five Sharpfingers(mainly as gifts), an Ontario SP-5, plus a custom in 1095.  The sharpfingers I gave away; they simply don't hold an edge for any length of time what so ever.  At least not by my standards based on those $250 custom knives in hi tech stainless steels I make and use.  The Sp-5 didn't suit my purpose, it was too thick and the handle hurt my hand.  It did hold an edge better than the sharpfingers.  My little custom in 1095 holds an edge better than either of the former, but still doesn't come close when it comes to edge holding of both the better carbons and better stainless.  It's a simple tool steel and performs like one...period.  When properly heat treated, which the sharpfingers weren't, it's ok.  I've always loved when someone declares their $10.00 Mora or whatever is up there in the same league with the best customs.  It's like saying a Volkswagon is like a Ferrari because it'll finally get you there.  Seems there used to be a guy around who declared he engaged in all sort of engineering analysis, destructive testing etc; he sort of disappeared for a good while.  Should I be welcoming you back?

[gcrank1]

I maybe shouldnt have titled this topic with 'cheap'......a balance of inexpensive and good steel would be more descriptive, and that 'debate' has been ongoing. It sure sounds like the heat treating is often the key and we cant count on much from the factories, maybe never could. If I have some good blades I best not get rid of them, the replacements may not be worth the disappointment.
The proof is in the using, cabinet queens dont mean much, no matter the cost (oh, but some look SOOO good, just dont work worth a hoot).

[inthebeech]

I did a fair amount of mechanical (destructive and non-destructive edge holding) testing Joel; the edge holding as I recall I did with sisal rope.  It posesses a natural abrasive in addition to it being darned tough, together with the fact that a single roll from one lot guarantees standardization so the tests are fair. I stopped experimenting where other bladesmiths have continued on to salt bath quenching equipment, sub-zero and liquid nitrogen cooling and other exotic process steps.  I am ok with the performance that I get, though it could certainly be improved.  I am also limited (self-imposed) to alloys that can be hand forged since this is all I do, so definately there are alloys that I have no experience with.  We will never find Excalliber (legendary blade of uncommon combination of edge holding, toughness and flexibility) and I am fine with where I have settled. 
I don't think I am the same bladesmith that you refer to however.

[gcrank1]

I decided to take my version of the Kephart spearpoint and give it a clip, a la Deweese. A fine improvement, as far as Im concerned. There were just too many times I found myself wanting a more 'pointy' tip. I cant see grooving the back, though it might make it a better fish scaler, and Ive never been much for the 'thumb traction' idea of them anyway.
All in all, and for free, this one has turned out to be a very user friendly, edge holding working knife for me. It does very well in the kitchen, and I know it will do well in the field.
I highly recommend the Deweese pattern over the Nessmuk (too much a specialized skinner) or Kephart pattern as an all rounder.