Failing to return to battery

[Pike60]

 I have started reloading for my Kimber 45 with 230 gr. LRN bullets from Missouri Bullet Co. and I am having some problems.There a times when the gun does not fully return to battery. What would cause this? The powder that I am using is universal clays with a charge of 5.3 grains. This seems to cycle the action well but is this powder gumming up the slide so that it does not fully return or would it be something else. It starts acting like this after running 2 or 3 mags through it so I don't think it is the bullets. Any ideas would be welcome.
 
Pike

[Savage]

Chamber gauge your loaded ammo and sort out any rounds that don't drop in and out of your chamber using only gravity. Mixed brass of various thickness can cause this problem. Most times it can be fixed by a die adjustment. I use the Lee Factory Crimp Die to eliminate this problem on ALL cases.
Savage

[Mikey]

I'm with Savage on this one.  Check you oal too if you have a mic.  Some rn bullets have different ogives and may need to be seated a tad deeper.  Universal Clays is supposed to be a nice clean burning powder but may also require a decent crimp to burn completely, and cleany.  If you do not have a factory crimp die you can pull the decapping pin from your resizing die and run the loaded cases back into about halfway down the bullet length that is inside the case and that will act like a taper crimp that may help. 

[gray wolf]

How far out of battery are we talking about ? slide almost closed ? half way closed ?
Yes use your chamber to check your finished rounds until you get confident they will all work.  The O A L  should also be set using your barrel as a gauge.
seat the bullets so they drop into your barrel with the back of the case even with the barrel hood. If seated to long you may be getting a small lead ring at the barrel lead.
Make sure you remove all the flare from the case.  Don't over crimp, it does nothing for bullet hold, and should only be used to remove the case flare you put there to seat the bullet. 45 ACP gains nothing from over crimping, the bullet hold is a frictional fit.
You will not increase case combustion by crushing the bullet with excessive crimping.  All you will do is reduce the size of the bullet, you squeeze the bullet,
the case springs back and the lead does not. Some powders are dirty with reduced loads, the cure is a different powder or increase the load. Your powder should run fairly clean throughout it's load range.  Not to say that you can't increase case pressure by over crimping a bullet with a crimp ring as in a revolver.
  Unless you have a very tight chamber, and I don't think your Kimber does, normal reloading should be fine.  You should not need a L F C D, there are times it can reduce the size of a lead bullet and give you barrel leading.
Not always but it can do it and it has done it. You should not have to use a rifle die to make your pistol ammo work.  If you have UN-normal bulges in your cases after seating bullets, look at your seating routine. A slight bulge with lead bullets is fairly common ( read slight )
  How do you remedy the problem when it happens?

[Steven Cline]

Like Savage and Mikey above- chamber check the rounds and be certain to check the OAL. But really check the crimp. Kimbers have tight chambers and while Missouri have a decent reputation in quality, the variation in the lead bullets might be the issue.
 
If you experienced the malf after the switch to lead I consider spending a little more for FMJ.  Last year I loaded 15k of Precision Delta 230 grn FMJ powdered by Clays.  No problems there.  Then again, cheap 200 grn LSWC also chambered just fine.
 
I also think a taper crimp is better than the roll crimp.
 
Finally, make sure your getting a good re-sizing of the brass.  If your skimping the re-size that could more easily cause the failure to feed than anything else.
 
Hope that helps.  Let us know what ya find that works.

[Steven Cline]

Maybe the problems not the reloads but the springs.  If you have finally reached the end of your recoil spring's life and just happen to have started the reloading then you could have a weak spring hiding behind a change in ammo.
 
Have you tried factory again to see if the malf continues?  If so, spings are cheap.
 
Don't mean to insult intelligence, just thinking while typing.

[KIMBER45]

I had that problem with my Kimber Eclipse. Sent it back to the factory and they polished the ramp. I've had no problems since using factory and reloads, copper or cast. Give them a call and see what they say.

[ole 5 hole group]

This is an ole thread but for those still having similar problems - There’s a couple different ways to check your finished reloads relative to the 45ACP.  One method is to just use the L.E. Wilson Case Length Gauge.    http://www.midwayusa.com/product/247371/le-wilson-case-length-gage-45-acp
Another method is referred to as the “Plunk Test”  and here’s a picture to assist you at what you’re looking at. 

[1911crazy]

I'd give the 1911 a GI tear down, cleaning and lubing first.  At the sametime check the extractor for tuning and tightness.  Make sure all the residue and dirt are out of the silde.  Then if still the problem persists go to the above suggestions.
I only use Unique gun powder in my auto's.

[williamlayton]

Springs and Cleaning if it almost goes back and the bullets drop in.
Blessings

[bugdust]

I had the same problem with my Taurus 1911. This problem suddenly cropping up. Failing to return to battery on about every fifth shot. An oldtimer  told me it was either the recoil spring or because it sat around for a month since cleaning and the slides went dry. I did have about 3000 rounds  without changing the spring. I ordered a new Wolf spring and cleaned and oiled it good. It went 110 rounds before it failed to return to battery. A real improvement. I cleaned the gun and for first time put grease on the rails. Since then there has been no failures. Since changing the recoil spring the ejected brass is falling into a nice pile. So I really needed a new spring. My standard load is 230 grain cast round nose and 5 grains unique.

[Mikey]

Bugdust:  5 gns of Unique under that bullet is a pretty light load, imo, and may be just dirty enough to create a lot of fouling.  My old Lyman 43rd edition tells me that 5.5 gns is a good target load (accuracy load, actually) but the factory duplicationload (with either the 230 gn cast or jacketed), from my manual, is 6.5 gns.  Unique will burn dirty if you let it.    HTH.

[Savage]

I didn't mention lubrication in my previous post as it's sort of a given that 1911s require good lubrication. A good synthetic grease on the rails will cure a lot of problems with the 1911. This is especially true when dissimilar metals are used in the slide and frame, or an all stainless pistol. 90% of function problems with 1911s are caused by one, or a combination of five things:
1. Improperly tuned extractor.
2. Lack of cleaning/lubrication.
3.Bad Magazines.
4. Out of spec or underpowered ammo.
5. Damaged or worn springs.

All of the above can be corrected by anyone with average ability, and require no special tools or skills. There is a ton of information/instruction available on performing these tasks. Just be sure to use a reliable source. If the gun still has problems, take it to a good pistol smith, or return it to the factory for a fix.
I have seen a lot of good pistols ruined by well intentioned souls with a grinder. Some to the point where welding was required to replace metal. Some beyond repair.
Contrary to internet babble, by far the majority of 1911 platform guns will run "Out of the Box" with just a good cleaning and lubrication.
Savage

[Pike60]

Thanks for all of the replies. I rechecked my loads and they dropped into the barrel the way that they are supposed to. I tried to be as close to factory as I can get. I ordered a set of springs from Wolff( I told them about the problem and they suggested the stronger repacement springs). When I recieved the springs, I changed it and went to the range and ran 10 magazines through it without one failure. That was shooting factory and reloads. I think that I am good to go and I also ordered a spare spring for when this one wears out. Thanks again for the help.
 
Pike60

[bugdust]

Mikey:
 
I got the 5.0 grs Unique for 230 grain cast bullet from Alliant load data for 790 fps. Start at 4.5 grains.
 
Glenwood