Author Topic: SLIDE LUBE (Read 2699 times)

HappyHunter · « **on:** May 05, 2003, 04:07:06 PM »

What is a good slide lube for stainless steel (Kimber Super Match)?

What is a good slide lube for Gov. issue Colt (blue)?

I heard that regular oil is not so good with stainless.

Thanks

Fred a/k/a HappyHunter

KN · « **Reply #1 on:** May 05, 2003, 06:27:19 PM »

I use Rem Oil on mine. KN

Questor · « **Reply #2 on:** May 06, 2003, 04:42:36 AM »

You are definitely asking a good question. Stainless does "gall" unless you use the right lube. I was amazed at how much galling I got in my Kimber Gold Match, even with good lubes. It's quite evident after about 5,000 rounds. I currently run a stripe of either Wilson gun grease or Shooter's Choice gun grease down the both grooves in the slide, and then run another stripe of FP10 oil into it. This wouldn't be good a carry gun because it will leak. For a carry gun, perhaps just the grease is a good option. The only problem with the grease is that it slows down the action in cold weather.

BigDaddyB · « **Reply #3 on:** May 06, 2003, 04:47:45 AM »

Quote from: HappyHunter

What is a good slide lube for stainless steel (Kimber Super Match)?

I use Tetra Gun Grease on all my slides. It seems to work well. Things run smooth and reliable. I don't have much mileage on any of my guns, so I'll have to reserve judgement on the long term.

L-Roy · « **Reply #4 on:** May 06, 2003, 04:15:10 PM »

White lithium is the best for both blue and stainless!

1GLOCK · « **Reply #5 on:** May 22, 2003, 10:47:39 AM »

I use Tech Lube from Kleen bore. Seems to work very well and comes in a little tube so its easy to apply.

Alferd Packer · « **Reply #6 on:** May 30, 2003, 07:37:48 PM »

What about Lubriplate?

Savage · « **Reply #7 on:** June 12, 2003, 03:31:36 AM »

The white lithium for sure! It doesn't cause problems in cold weather either. By the way "Lubriplate" is white lithium.
Stay Safe,
Savage

kciH · « **Reply #8 on:** July 03, 2003, 07:21:22 AM »

I've had good luck over the years with Hi-Tech grease from Shooters Choice. It isn't affected by temperature from what I can tell. I've also used it on the pivots on my Citori with good results. I've been using it for about 14 years and haven't had a reason to change.

MoustacheMike · « **Reply #9 on:** July 12, 2003, 07:21:04 AM »

Gunslick graphite

Mikey · « **Reply #10 on:** July 14, 2003, 08:43:53 AM »

I just started using the powdered Moly Lube. I purchased two four ounce cans from T.S. Moly Lubricants in Houston, Texas. The grade of powder I purchased was Fine, and Technical Fine. You can use either to coat your bullets but I chose both grades to experiment with as a lubricant.

This stuff works best if you burnish into the metal, which I did with the sears, hammers, triggers and springs on my 1911s. I also used it on the slides, with one of the pistols being an aluminum framed Colt Commander. Wherever I saw wear I burnished the lubricant in. In the end I would say it is very smooth. Not slick to the point of being able to slip the hammer off the sear but smooooooth. The Commander had a 4 lb trigger pull on it but you can't tell that now. The government model was down to three pounds but I'm not so sure anymore, it is so smooth I really can't tell except that it breaks when you want it to.

I used to use 20-50 motor oil for all my gun lubricating purposes and probably still will even on top of the Moly Lube, especially if I'm going to go out and shoot up a whole bunch of ammo.

This stuff is like a graphite powder. I applied it with q-tips and just worked it into every crevase and place where there was wear. I think it works well, and for the price I paid I sure have a heck of a lot of lube left that will last me for a long time. Just my 2 cents worth. Mikey.

1911crazy · « **Reply #11 on:** November 04, 2003, 01:09:32 AM »

I like to use the moly anti-seize and the first application is messy to shoot but it wears in to the pores of the metal as we shoot it so I apply more than is really needed. Moly reduces all galling, friction and wear because of less metal to metal contact its great stuff. It doesn't attract dirt too. It also has no temp related stiffness like other lubes. The best thing is the gun will last to be handed down to generations in my family. BigBill

They also make moly treatment for barrels too, it increases bullet velocity while reducing wear too. I use it in every gun, in revolvers on sears(lessens trigger pull), in bolt action rifles(lugs & sears), in semi auto rifles (slides and sears). They make this stuff for cars too. I tested this stuff in my new '73 truck I knew a guy who worked for Dow Corning where they developed it and he gave me some to try. I sold the truck at 157k and it still ran like the day i bought it. The body was rusted out. I put it in the transmissions, engine, transfer case and the front differential(4x4) I could use it in the rear differential because of the posi.(its not applical to where there are clutch plates because it reduces friction so well they won't work). The transmissions never had a whine the whole time I owned this truck.
If you want to test this stuff take two pieces of steel 2x2x 1/4" thick and make sure they are free of all burrs and flat, I used ground stock. Rub the two pieces together dry at first to feel the friction and drag. Put on the moly anti seize and work them together to work it in the small pores of the metal. Now wipe the excess moly off and now the metal is dry rub them together like you first did?? You will see the difference from when you first tried it dry there is no friction or drag at all. Moly is great stuff!!!

Dow Corning tested this stuff in a jeep on a race track they put a heavy consontrate in the oil pan ran it around the track and took the oil pan off and ran it around the track with no pan or oil. Put the pan back on and the motor was perfect no noise at all!!!!

williamlayton · « **Reply #12 on:** November 04, 2003, 02:09:02 AM »

mikey-
why did you choose the powdered moly-lube over, i think there is a difference, bigbills choice of moly-lube? how did you burnish it into the parts?
bigbill-
same question for you as mikey-in reverse of course.

Savage · « **Reply #13 on:** November 04, 2003, 02:40:15 AM »

BigBill,
Not a bad idea! I have used the moly anti-sieze for years in some automotive applications. I would perfer the grease binder to the dry as it holds the moly in the wear area as the mating parts move together. The friction of the parts creates enough heat to allow the moly to permeate into the metal pores. The synthetic oils work much the same way, they just don't have the heavy grease binder and are best applied to a warm surface to speed the bonding process. Good choice, Bill!!
Stay Safe,
Savage

1911crazy · « **Reply #14 on:** November 04, 2003, 06:56:12 AM »

Quote from: williamlayton

mikey-
why did you choose the powdered moly-lube over, i think there is a difference, bigbills choice of moly-lube? how did you burnish it into the parts?
bigbill-
same question for you as mikey-in reverse of course.

I worked the lube in by moving the slide with no spring then take it apart relube it then shoot it. Of course with so much moly it tends to splatter a little on the shooter the first time anyway. Its great stuff and stays where you put it too. It doesn't dry up or run off in storage once its lubed and stored its ready to rock n roll anytime. I have bought many used sks's that were lubed with gun oil and stored and over time they are bone dry no oil at all. On sks's I lube the whole gas system too (the piston rod). This is where most wear is seen because of heat and that is where moly performs in high temps too. I have only used moly in paste form and anti-seize form for many years and just stuck with it. I don't think it matters as long as you use "moly". BigBill

And put some on the barrel and the bushing too on the 45!!!!!

I have a new ruger 357mag I bought back in the 70's the trigger pull was 4lbs by using moly it cut it in almost in half its a little over 2lbs now so it out weighs the cost in the beginning as far as lubing and besides removing all galling, friction and wear its a cheap way to get an expensive trigger job too!!!

williamlayton · « **Reply #15 on:** November 05, 2003, 01:40:46 AM »

any specific place ya got to get the moly from or will most places carry it--i'm askin cause of the price of gas an no desire ta run over half tha county lookin.
blessings

HappyHunter · « **Reply #16 on:** November 05, 2003, 02:09:41 AM »

WilliamLayton,

I just ordered powder and paste from: http://www.tsmoly.com/gunlube.htm#mos2powder

Good luck,

Fred

williamlayton · « **Reply #17 on:** November 05, 2003, 03:02:44 AM »

rms lubricants are bou 15 minutes from tha house--i'm gonna go an see if we can get it by the case at reduced prices. mightbe able to help us all out. be back to ya later.
blessings

1911crazy · « **Reply #18 on:** November 05, 2003, 05:48:38 AM »

Quote from: williamlayton

rms lubricants are bou 15 minutes from tha house--i'm gonna go an see if we can get it by the case at reduced prices. mightbe able to help us all out. be back to ya later.
blessings

This stuff isn't cheap I paid around $15/$20 a can of moly anti-seize when i was ordering it when i was working. TS Moly on the net you can order it and save gas/time trying to find it. There are other manufactures too its all the same stuff or pretty close on some of the different ones I bought. You will see the difference in how smoother/faster the gun cycles in semi-autos and in revolvers take the gun apart and do the sear if you can use a trigger pull tester(lbs) before and after you work it in and it will be close to 50% less (mine were) it sure affects accuracy too having a smoother trigger. The expensive price out weighs guns not wearing out for sure if you shoot alot replacing wornout guns can be expensive. BigBill

My first application in semi-auto pistols is heavy then once its burnished into the metal pores you can use less only my first shoot is messy it even gets on my face so wear shooting glasses too. That 1911 45acp will just bang them out so much faster it even ups the reliability too. And put some on the bottom of bolt(sears) on bolt actions too besides the lugs. I'm sure the gun industry doesn't want you to know about this stuff once the word gets out their repair dept will be like the maytag guy bored!!!

williamlayton · « **Reply #19 on:** November 05, 2003, 11:12:47 AM »

going to meet with the folks friday--they seemed to have an interest--nothing may come of but i'm willing to drive over there and talk. i drive farther than that jest to look at sumthin that inerest me.
we will see what happens--btw i'm not interested in making a profit on this. but if it's good and we can get it for less then i'm fer it.
i'll let ya know what i find out.
blessings

1911crazy · « **Reply #20 on:** November 05, 2003, 10:28:33 PM »

Like I said its not cheap I had to order mine from an Industrial supply place out of New Jersey called "McMaster Carr Industrial Supply" I'm on my last can right now. BigBill

williamlayton · « **Reply #21 on:** November 06, 2003, 01:12:50 AM »

well at least you now know where to order it direct. as i said i'm gonna have a meet with tha folks. ben was right nice over tha phone and indicated that at very least they would be willing to talk.
he indicated that he was interested in ways to market to tha shooter. their main push on marketing is, of course, aimed at industrial customers but they have seen for sometimes a customer need in shooting. they have another product which is good for collectors firearms.
gb
if'n your listening in i brought up tha thought that they might be interested in being a sponsor her at the forum. the first response was that their $$, now, were going to other areas. we will see, i will encourage him to contact you.
blessings

williamlayton · « **Reply #22 on:** November 07, 2003, 03:25:37 PM »

well ben is willing to mark the price down 25% for case lots. i have to find out how much postage will be and a mailer, then all i have to do is buy it by the case and send it to those who want. AGAIN-no profit for me, you will pay what it cost me to buy it and send it. i'll get back to ya.
blessings

Bill T · « **Reply #23 on:** December 30, 2003, 11:29:10 PM »

I've found Mobil 1 straight from the bottle to work well on Stainless. Bill T.

catman · « **Reply #24 on:** February 08, 2004, 06:39:54 AM »

Slick 50 works very well also

BamBams · « **Reply #25 on:** February 08, 2004, 07:06:14 AM »

"Break Free" makes an oil for "Rapid Fire" guns that works very well with stainless. They recommend it specifically for machine guns and stainless guns. I've been using it for a little over a year now, and I love it.

What I like best about it is that it doesn't dry out for a long long time. This used to be my biggest complaint with gun lubricants. I shoot ALOT as a pistol instructor, and I think I'm going to stay with this stuff as my pistol will stay wet for over a month with it.