changing barrel bolt

[tmar04]

just bought used 21 in tapered 223 barrel from member but will not function on my old orig frame. just got frame back from factory,(new hammer spring. new firing pin and good cleaning. works fine with my 7-30 G2 barrel. called factory and they said will send me  new bolt. I haven't the least idea how to change this item.  anyone got some instructions  to make job easier?  tks to all.

[Hopalong7]

      It's quite an easy task.  The bolt is spring loaded and held in place by a roll pin.  Using the proper size punch (a roll pin punch is great, but a standard punch will do just fine ) tap out the pin leaving the punch in place to hold the bolt.  Now push the end of the bolt up against anything fixed ( I use the edge of the top of my work bench ) , apply just enough pressure to start to compress the bolt spring, pull out the punch and then back off the pressure slowly.  Voilla!    Reverse same procedure for install.  The whole process might take 3 minutes .  Good luck!
Walt

[Ladobe]

What Walt said, or...   just depress the bolt spring between your thumb and first finger wrapped around the recoil block while removing the punch and driving the pin back in when reinstalling.   Easiest with first finger folded using the side of the folded knuckle on the front of the block, thumb on bolt with the barrel flat on a folded towel on the bench (to protect finish and to have no need to hold the barrel).   It's always better control to me when you can feel what's happening in and out.   Only takes a second so most ought to be able to depress the spring easy enough long enough even if you don't have strong mitts like I do.   
 

[tmar04]

tks to both u guys! what a great forum. such a wealth of info available.

[Muddyboots]

A standard squeeze type wood clamp with the rubber sleeves over the clamp works perfect for removing bolt springs etc. Just squeeze the bolt back with clamp over bolt and barrel frame, lock in place and punch out roll pin. Ease off clamp, remove bolt and spring and reverse to replace. Easiest way to keep everything on your bench instead of getting out magnet and crawling on floor...

[tmar04]

again, thanks for advice. here is the latest. received my new barrel bolts and installed per advice offered on this fine forum. guess what! still can't open barrel! when I remove the large, hinge pin, after being unable to open barrel any other way, the barrel moves forward about 1/8 inch. it is under spring tension somehow. Damn, I hate to take this thing to a gunsmith, or have to call smith wesson again. I know it is barrel, because I have 3 other barrels that work fine. some old, some new. I even lubed shaft of locking bolt with proper lube. still wont release barrel. Help, please!!

[tmar04]

here's the latest. can now open barrel, using both hands. then after opening and closing 15-20 times, it almost becomes acceptable. the I cock hammer, cycle the trigger action, now barrel reverts to almost impossible to open again. use both hands, begins to work fairly well again. something needs to be dressed down with a stone, but where??

[Keith L]

There is a thread in the stickies of the TC Pistols forum that discusses using older barrels with G2 frames.  One of the posters did a great job including diagrams on stoning bolts.  Take a look and see if that doesn't help you.

[Keith L]

I think the thread says this also, but take your time and check fit often.  Go slow and leave the dremel in the box.  You can remove a little more metal, but you can't put it back on.

[tmar04]

that 'sticky' seems to address barrels that have problems locking up. they talk about dressing the section on top of locking bolt. that is not my problem. I think it is the angle of the locking bolt surface that actually unlocks the barrel, which is the actual end of the bolt. I will try to reshape that area and report more. tks to all.