Author Topic: recommendations for battery isolation switch  (Read 468 times)

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Offline no guns here

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recommendations for battery isolation switch
« on: September 30, 2012, 11:30:03 AM »
Need to put a switch in my old suburban to keep from running the battery down when it sits for a while.

Need to know how big of a switch to buy...

Does it need to be for the same number of amps as the CCA of the battery or what?

Put it on the positive side or negative side?


Thanks,
NGH
"I feared for my life!"

Offline hillbill

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Re: recommendations for battery isolation switch
« Reply #1 on: September 30, 2012, 12:29:49 PM »
a easy cheap way ive used to do what you want is to use a marine type terminal on the batt.they are the ones with the stud sticking out of them and usually come with a wing nut on the stud. i cut the regular terminal off the cable and solder on a round copper eye on it. takes just seconds to lift the hood and unscrew the wing nut and lift off the cable.cost prob about 5 buks for the terminal and the eye.
 
my local parts store sells a blade type switch terminal made of copper. it mounts on the batt and has another post you hook cable too.they work ok but must be kept clean. vibration can cause probs with them but they are usually good. you simply lift hood and lift the blade straight up to dissconnect the batt.
 
if you want the ultimate disconnect switch, use a caterpillar main disconnect switch off a older caterpillar dozer or grader.they never mess up, are made heavy duty and take vibration well.you mite find one at a local heavy equipment salvage yard. i would mount it on the fender near the batt and run a cable to it from the batt and then another cable to your starter.
 
let us know what yu choose?

Offline hillbill

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Re: recommendations for battery isolation switch
« Reply #2 on: September 30, 2012, 12:35:58 PM »
oh forgot, in answer to your other questions,i usually put them on the pos post but im not sure it makes a difference?
 
if it is actual batt disconnect swtich the the size of the batt or the cranking amps wont make a diff either.

Offline wtxbadger

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Re: recommendations for battery isolation switch
« Reply #3 on: September 30, 2012, 02:04:55 PM »
I agree with hillbill on the blade style disconnect. Had an 82 Landcruiser FJ60 that we  installed a top post blade type disconnect on and it worked well just make sure you have enough clearance if you decide to use one. I had to put a shop rag between the switch and the hood to keep from shorting things out. Mine was installed on the positive terminal of the battery.

wtxbadger
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Offline mechanic

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Re: recommendations for battery isolation switch
« Reply #4 on: September 30, 2012, 02:32:31 PM »
They make a disconnect just for this purpose you can buy at NAPA or Carquest, etc.  It has a turn on turn off knob.
 
It doesn't matter which cable you break with it.
 
Ben
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Offline no guns here

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Re: recommendations for battery isolation switch
« Reply #5 on: October 02, 2012, 03:17:18 PM »
Thanks Ben... the problem is I think too much.  I could just go buy the 18.95 part but it's only rated for a certain number of amps both continuous and temporary.  Others are rated much higher.  I need to know how many amps does this REALLY need to be able to run under a heavy load like starting and a minimal load like driving.


ngh
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Offline mechanic

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Re: recommendations for battery isolation switch
« Reply #6 on: October 02, 2012, 04:34:42 PM »
A switch rated to about 300 amps. should be sufficient.  This would take into account a worn dragging starter, etc.  The rating on many switch's is for the continuous amps.  Temporarily they can draw a lot more, as when starting.  The one pictured I have used on forklifts and heavy equipment alike.
 
Ben
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