shims and a 25-06?

[Deerhunter#1]

 i thought i had it perfect and it locked up perfect on this one receiver but after closer inspection there is a slight wobble. i know that the 2506 is one of the higher pressure rounds how well do the shims in FAQ hold up with calibers such as this. what shims would you recommend for as i mentioned the slightest of movement? thanks

[Deerhunter#1]

well i tried a piece of coke soda can for a shim and that is to thick and gives me a gap at the top where the barrel and receiver connect. I tried shimming the forearm under the black spacer and it worked no wobble and no light between receiver barrel and the latch is still good with half travel even when a empty shell is installed no gap. But the forearm is tighter than i am use to and i know that can cause accuracy issues itself. should i just jb weld the can and use the bit to take it down to where i need it. I will basically down to the jb by the time i get it where i need to be or is there a thinner shim material than a can. I quess i can try shooting it first with the tighter forearm and see what happens. what do you guys think?

[quickdtoo]

I wouldn't waste time JBing an aluminum shim, it will just hammer out and you'll be right back where you started. Use steel shims made from a feeler gauge set or regular steel shim stock. Shimming the spacer only tightens the barrel when the action is open, being loose when open has no bearing on how well it shoots, the barrel being tight to the action without the forend on is when it counts, it will feel tighter when locked up with a shimmed spacer, but the gap is still there.

Tim

[Deerhunter#1]

yeah tim i am getting some steel shim and see how she goes. tin cans is way to thick. thanks

[PineyCreek22]

Would it be possible to drill and tap the lug in the area where the casting is machined to manage lateral movement with say a 6-48 machine screw, counter bore it and then file the head slowly to eliminate the lateral movement.  This done on both sides. Piney Creek