Author Topic: My New Cannon from Scale Artillary (Read 1508 times)

Onit12345 · « **on:** November 18, 2012, 09:28:12 AM »

I am finally getting around to posting this, new cannon from Scale Artillary, take a look at my progress

Onit12345 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 18, 2012, 09:31:59 AM »

Working on the carriage...

Onit12345 · « **Reply #2 on:** November 18, 2012, 09:36:01 AM »

Staining the carriage with dark walnut then 5 coats of Danish Oil dark walnut, will put a layer of wax for the final coat. Also a ramrod I made

Onit12345 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 18, 2012, 09:41:13 AM »

Photos of the wheels and trunnion cap squares made by Scale Artillary. Also photos of a mold that is currently being built, one round ball and one hollow bullet. Thats all for now, more to come....

Cannoneer · « **Reply #4 on:** November 19, 2012, 12:24:47 AM »

Thanks for posting the photo sets; good work!

NinjaToes · « **Reply #5 on:** November 19, 2012, 10:04:47 AM »

Looking good

Is it made from stainless steel ?

Onit12345 · « **Reply #6 on:** November 19, 2012, 12:50:27 PM »

It's made from 1018 steel

BoomLover · « **Reply #7 on:** November 19, 2012, 01:38:19 PM »

Looks very good...nice size, too! I have liked everything I have gotten from him...

buzz36 · « **Reply #8 on:** November 19, 2012, 04:08:52 PM »

looks like a nice start to a new carriage cant comment onthe barrel as it just pisses me off

Onit12345 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 20, 2012, 03:27:41 PM »

What do you guys/ladies think of this and the weight?

Victor3 · « **Reply #10 on:** November 20, 2012, 11:31:18 PM »

Out of a smoothbore, your slug may tumble in flight. You might try a hollow-base mould to make a slug that will provide a tight seal in the bbl upon firing, as well as a 'shuttlecock' effect that could help keep it flying straight. However, I don't really know how much help it would be without rifling.

This is a mould I made for a 25mm rifled cannon...

JeffG · « **Reply #11 on:** November 22, 2012, 11:17:33 AM »

Very Nice!

The info about a hollow based projo is spot on. In effect, without rifling the nose should be heavier that the rest of the projectile.

Onit12345 · « **Reply #12 on:** December 23, 2012, 02:49:55 PM »

Some updated photos, still working on her

Onit12345 · « **Reply #13 on:** December 23, 2012, 02:54:10 PM »

Double D · « **Reply #14 on:** December 23, 2012, 06:47:34 PM »

If you use those metal brackets for axles and wheels your carriage will be to tall and ungainly. It will be top heavy and possible unstable.

You ave a good looking cannon and carriage going right now. Mount those wheel on th metal bracket s as the ar now and it iwll be ugly.

If you attach the wheels to the wooden axle it will look and work better. You could roll those brackets over and so the end part pointing down is pointing up and over the end of the wooden axles. Weld an axle on each end to mount the wheels.

Be sure the front wheels are larger diameter than the rear,

Cannon Cocker · « **Reply #15 on:** December 23, 2012, 06:57:16 PM »

I had a carriage like what you have now minus the metal brackets. I used a hole saw to cut deep into the ends of the wood by continuously cleaning out the core it had made. I then glued dowels into these holes and used wooden deck wheels to finish it. The wheels would be about the right height if you were have them centered on your existing wooden axle trees.

Onit12345 · « **Reply #16 on:** December 24, 2012, 02:42:32 AM »

Yea I agree, when I put it all together yesterday I was thinking the same thing about the metal brackets looking bad. I'll have to figure what I wanna do. This is only my second carrage so still learning

GLS · « **Reply #17 on:** December 24, 2012, 03:44:02 AM »

For my carriages I route a hemisphere into the length of half of the square part of the axle and glue a oak dowel in between the two square parts.

Double D · « **Reply #18 on:** December 24, 2012, 03:54:54 AM »

Well I would say if this is your second carriage you are catching on quick. You are doing a great job.

I'll make a couple more suggestions. Give the cheeks some draft. By that I mean the the cheeks should be closer together-taper in the front than the back. The taper should the same as the taper of the cannon barrel. The cheeks should come to the rim bases at the trunnion and be an equal distance from the base ring.

You can see the draft in in the cheeck of this carriage.

Also make a transom that goes across the front between cheeks to give support. This carriage has a transom and rub rail.

Onit12345 · « **Reply #19 on:** December 24, 2012, 05:17:30 AM »

Thank you all for your input...

When I first began making the carriage I thought about giving the cheeks some draft but then I started to think about all the angles I would need to cut and figure out. I guess I figured it would be to difficult to figure all out but thinking back if I sketched it out rather then figure it all out in my head I would have been able to do it, we'll save that for #3 carriage.

I do have a rub rail or transom (don't know what it's called) built just haven't installed it yet. Double D it's like the one in your avatar

On to the axles. On my first carriage what I did was drilled holes and put wooden pegs in for the axles and that looked and worked good but I this one I wanted some added strength. So decided to incorporate some steel so I could really secure everything. The other problem is I used the wrong wood, it's a soft wood. I decided to try one of the suggestions and flip the axles over so I would be able to still use steel and it should look a lot better than it does now

GGaskill · « **Reply #20 on:** December 24, 2012, 09:20:21 AM »

On my 24 pounder, I made the wooden axles to plan but ball end milled out the center so I could use steel tubing for the axles since I was not confident that the wooden axle stubs would be a long term solution. I turned wood plugs for the ends of the tubes so they weren't hollow to the eye and would give wood grain once painted.

Zulu · « **Reply #21 on:** December 24, 2012, 09:53:04 AM »

I have done axles both ways. Lathe turned wooden axles and steel bar axles for bearinged wheels. Here are some pictures of both.
Zulu