Finishing a build - the lock

[AtlLaw]

The lock I bought way back when is an L&R copy of a small "Durs Egg."  Again, I don't know what I was thinking when I bought it.     Were I to do it today I'd probably get a small Siler.  But, maybe it was the only diminutive lock the supplier had available at the time... who knows...
 
But, you dance with the one you brung, and it's a fine lock!   

[AtlLaw]

I took the lock apart and will dig out my reference material on "tuning" it.  Whatever that means...    But I have read that L&R locks need it for some reason... 
 
At some point during the disassembly process that iti-bity tiny little fly dropped out!     Not to worry, I found it!     Now, I'm sure I'll be able to reassemble the lock, but I've heard that the fly is susceptible to Murphy's Law.   
 
Does anyone have any experience with these locks that can give me some watch-out-for's?

[flintlock]

I take mine apart to clean, thought about polishing the sear but both my Silers (one small, one large) operate just fine as they are...
 
How does it spark now?? Will the rifle have set triggers on her???
 
If she sparks and you are putting set triggers on her I would put that lock back together and see how the rifle works once she is assembled...You might be making a fuss over nothing......

[AtlLaw]

How does it spark now??

You know, that's a real good question!  I've never tried it!      It's also a heckova good idea!        I'll check my local BP store and see if they have some flints.  If they do I'll reassemble the lock and give it a... shot!   
 

Will the rifle have set triggers on her???

No, just a single trigger.  But I'm glad you said that also.  I need to add a trigger plate to my "parts needed" list.  Or maybe I should just make the plate myself.   
 

You might be making a fuss over nothing......

Unfortunately I've been known to do that!     I'm glad I have friends who can keep me in the real world!   

[Cuts Crooked]

Donno if I can explain this or not....if you are going with a single trigger instead of a set trigger you might want to make or buy a trigger plate with a high pivot point. Don't go with a plate that simply uses a pin through the plate. The higher the pivot point is the lighter trigger will feel...gives ya more leverage on the trigger.

Did that make sense?

[flintlock]

Yep, what he said and where I was going...
 
I have set triggers on both of mine, since this is a squirrel rifle, made to pop squirrels in the head I would recommend set triggers...
 
The main spring on a flinter makes a good trigger imperative...As mentioned, a simple trigger when set up properly can be a pretty good trigger, but not as good as a good set of Davis set triggers...
 
Remember a see saw when we were younger??? Put a fat boy on the short side and you can pick him up rather easily...That's what that high pivot point does...But if you make the see saw equal on both sides then you can't budge him...
 
That's what Cuts is talking about, made properly a simple trigger can trip the sear fairly easily, giving say, 4 pounds of trigger pull...The set trigger can drop it down to a few ounces...

[Cuts Crooked]

Here are a couple of examples:

High pivot point trigger plate: http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/920/4/TR-LEMAN-P

Low pivot point plate:http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/920/6/TR-YORK-P

Didn't find any in a quick search, but I have seen trigger plates that simply had a hole drilled through the plate with no riser at all.

[AtlLaw]

I've taken the lock apart and put it back together several times now, just doing a little fitting here and there.  I haven't got a flint yet so I don't know how she sparks, but like FL said, that should have been the first thing I did!     Oh well, I'll send in an order to ToTW today.
 
One thing I checked is the position of the sear arm with the hammer at rest, half cock and full cock.  Unfortunately the arm is in a different position with each click of the hammer.     The only consolation is that the arm is in the center position at full cock.
 
And sports fans, I am not going to start filing on the bridle to correct this flaw.   
 

I take mine apart to clean, thought about polishing the sear but both my Silers (one small, one large) operate just fine as they are...

I understand the Silers don't have the problem discribed above anymore, and maybe, since my lock is 20 years old, L&R's dimensions have been changed also.  But this one thing has caused another addition to my axioms for future builds; if there is a future build!   
 
1)  Build from a stock blank. (But I'll have someone else cut the barrel and ramrod channels)
2)  Fashion the lock from individual parts, maybe a kit if it's correct. (Or as I said before, use a Siler. Or actually, anything by Chambers  )

if you are going with a single trigger instead of a set trigger you might want to make or buy a trigger plate with a high pivot point.

I have set triggers on both of mine, since this is a squirrel rifle, made to pop squirrels in the head I would recommend set triggers...

It's funny how the stuff y'all bring up fall right in with decisions I am faced with!      This is one plate I was considering.
 
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/920/1/TR-IH-P?PageSize=100
 
But my original thought was a single set trigger.  And I do have the one I bought back then!     Then I decided to use a standard trigger, pinned to the stock.  I've got it also!     the thought was the trigger plate would serve as a wear plate for the trigger and also be threaded to take the tang bolt.
 
It was my feeling that double set triggers weren't that common on most PA Longrifles...    Which maybe explains why I got the single set trigger in the first place!   
 
Anyway, I'm rethinking it again!     But only because of the sear thing.  With the sear arm in 3 different positions depending on the position of the hammer, I will have to fit the trigger with a gap of a 16th or 3/32 inch between the top of the trigger and the sear arm to accommodate the arm's movement.  At full cock there will be about a 1/32 in. gap.  in effect a two stage trigger... 
 
Obviously a set trigger would eliminate that problem.  Thoughts?   
 
Pics to follow!   

[AtlLaw]

Here's the pics of what I was talking about.
 
The first shows the scratch marks indicating the 3 positions of the sear arm.
The second shows the 2 triggers I have.

[flintlock]

On both my large and small Siler the sear arm stays in the same position...The large was on the Bob Watts rifle when I bought it in 1977...The small is one I bought in 1988 when I built my .54...
 
The lock you have is from the 1820-1850 or so time period...It would be more common for a gun made in Maryland to come with double set triggers at that time...I've seen Jaegers from the early 1700s with set triggers..

[AtlLaw]

On both my large and small Siler the sear arm stays in the same position...

I knew it did on the new Siler locks and I've heard that it has always been so.  I guess your experience proves that it has for at least the last 36 years!   
 

The lock you have is from the 1820-1850 or so time period...

Hummm.    It seems to me Mr. Egg started making locks in the early 1770's...    And I would imagine L&R's lock is a copy of the latest or most popular edition.  So maybe it could be that late.     I dunno, I just guesstimated the late 18th century, early 19th century. 
 

It would be more common for a gun made in Maryland to come with double set triggers at that time...I've seen Jaegers from the early 1700s with set triggers..

Oh you're right!  No doubt.     I just had this thing about a single trigger...    But As you say, this rifle is for head shots on squirrels... and I've used Davis set triggers before and luv 'em... and using one on this rifle would eliminate the lock plate and sear position issues... 
 
I just may use a double set trigger after all!     I want to build a pair of dueling pistols so I can save the single set trigger for that!     Maybe I can use the single trigger on a fowler!   
 
I'll sleep on it until it comes time to inlet the trigger.  But my stubborn hold on the single trigger has been lessened!     See, it's good to talk things out!   

[AtlLaw]

I got a flint today!      I'll put the lock together in the morning and see how it sparks!  I'm all excited!

[AtlLaw]

I think it sparks fine...  Wish I had something to compare it to... 
 
There isn't the off discribed "shower" of sparks I was expecting.  Maybe a half dozen, but at least one always falls into the pan.
 
You rock lock people would know right off... Maybe I'll try to film the ignition with my phone camera and see if I can attach it here. 

[flintlock]

All flints are not alike...
 
Did you get Black English, French Amber, cut Agate or another???
 
Will it cut your finger if you run it across the face???
 
Is the frizzen free from oil??? If not, clean it with rubbing alcohol...
 
Did you try bevel up and bevel down???
 
While we are at it...Do you know how to knap a flint???

[AtlLaw]

Did you get Black English, French Amber, cut Agate...

yes!     I got one of each but after ordering I found the correct size for the Durs Egg was 5/8ths in.  The only one that size I got was the Blk English.  The others are 1/2 inch.  I haven't tried them yet.  Which do you prefer?   

Will it cut your finger if you run it across the face???

no.     You can tell it's sharp when you run it across your finger tip, but it didn't cut.     'course I didn't push down real hard either!   
 

Is the frizzen free from oil???

Well duh!  I didn't think to do that!     I'll clean it when I get home!
 

Did you try bevel up and bevel down???

Yes, I tried bevel up last night.  If anything it sparked less.   

While we are at it...Do you know how to knap a flint???

Shoot!  At my age there's only one kind of napping I know how to do!        I wondered about that though...    I've read of folk knapping dull flints but never found a "how to" on it.  I would think it's basically the same as knapping arrowheads and such, but them lock flints is awful small!   

[AtlLaw]

Here's the lock with flint installed.  I cleaned the frizzen and adjusted the flint and it seems to spark better.      The flint does seem to be dull(er), but being new to these locks I don't really know how sharp it should be... 

[AtlLaw]

another pic... maybe a little more clear.

[flintlock]

Looks to me like that flint could be a little thinner and sharper at the leading edge...It really only takes a few sparks, try putting a half pan of powder in her and set her off...You can do this without gloves, just don't get your fingers in the way of the frizzen as she flys forward...
 
Something else, is that picture at full cock or half cock??? If it is at half cock, move the flint so it touches the frizzen and try it again...
 
Typically, I'll use a flint at the range until she quits sparking, then turn it over and let it knap itself as I shoot...
 
I knap with a medium size finishing nail...Cut off the point and go down the flint with the nail at 90 degrees...Hit the nail with a small hammer and flake off about 1/16th of the leading edge...If it looks serrated, don't worry about it...As it wears, move the flint toward the frizzen again...

[necchi]

Nice lock, too bad you gotta drill a couple holes in it. 
 
That's a tip I had to learn the hard way,
be sure the left side lock panel is parallel to the right side be for you drill

[AtlLaw]

try putting a half pan of powder in her and set her off...

AH HA!    I was wondering if I could do that!    
 

is that picture at full cock or half cock???

It's at full cock.  Not knowing how to adjust the flint in the jaws I had, just before I took that picture, set the flint against the frizzen at half cock.
 
And thanks for the knapping tips!     But you never said, do you prefer one type of flint over another?   

[AtlLaw]

be sure the left side lock panel is parallel to the right side be for you drill

That's one of the reasons I have always used two inlays on the sideplate side for the lock screws.  But I'll go extra slow on this one!   

[flintlock]

I use Black English flints...

[AtlLaw]

Cool!      I'll just order a few more of those.

[AtlLaw]

I spend a few hours with my needle files last night working on removing mould lines, etc. from the lock parts.  The parts didn't really look bad, and I have browned locks "as is" and they turned out okay.  But I just couldn't bear the thought of someone noticing those "imperfections" when they examined the finished rifle.     And even if they weren't noticed, I'd know they were there!     I'll post a pic tonight. 
 
Now I need to file a draft around the edge of the lock plate to get ready to inlet it.  That will complete the lock work for now.  I'll make sure all the file marks are removed and do the polishing after the rifle is sighted in and before the final finishing and assembly.   
 
Which brings me to my request.     I have heard the opinion that browning didn't really become popular until later in the 18th century.  These sources seem to believe that most metal was left "bright" or sometimes blued.
 
So, while the browning of steel parts would certainly be appropriate for this early 19th century rifle, I'm wondering if the polished lock left bright (the barrel will be browned) would compliment the overall look of the rifle.     What would all y'all's preference be if the rifle was being made for you?   

[AtlLaw]

Shoot, I never posted the picture!   
 
Now that I finally feel like doing something again I'll file a draft on the edge of the lockplate.   

[necchi]

Kinda wondered why these threads ain't been going for awhile, Good to see your on the mend.
 
Anyways, leaving the lock bright seems to be popular now-a-days but it won't be for me. I do a lot of shooting, a lot. Running the Rendezvous circuit to the tune of half dozen+ a year plus practice means 4-500 rounds down each guns tube.
 
Something about firing a Trad BP rifle tends to make them things pretty darn dirty, and cleaning bright steel back to bright each shooting session is a pita.(!).
Brass is easy to polish but steel?,     600 grit, Crocus cloth, spit, rouge and hours(hours!) get's monotonous.
 You should be able to pull it off though, I know your a shooter but your interests are varied, this build won't be your primary rifle of choice for all your shooting. Don't get me wrong you'll shoot it I'm sure, but Friday nights candle shoot, Saturdays Competition 50-60 rounds and another 30 on Sunday to be repeated monthly for the summer months won't be the routine.
 
I'll be using Laurel Mountain Forge's Barrel Brown.
Browning the steel (I'm going for a full steel mounting) and using the hot water blue instructions they recommend. I've used it successfully for years now, browning various guns and have "blued" a few items while refurbing a  few older rifles. I like the shade of the hot water blue LMF gives and the matte/ none polished surface doesn't reflect light to the eye messing up fine target shooting.
 
I really must dig out the olde camera and set to` taking a few photo's of this build to share.
Like you said, seeing others in action tends to motivate one's self.

[AtlLaw]

Kinda wondered why these threads ain't been going for awhile,

Heck!  It's good to know someones reading them!   
 

...leaving the lock bright seems to be popular now-a-days but it won't be for me. ...I'll be using Laurel Mountain Forge's Barrel Brown.

I think you're right and just your logical opinion decided it for me.     So I've gone from blue to bright to brown, which I like best of all anyway!     Same with Laurel Mtn. stuff.  I'm gonna give it a try.  I've always used Plum Brown before.
 
Besides the steel and brass, I'm also planning on using Nickle Silver and faux Ivory (TruIvory) for accouterments on this rifle.  That is unless I convince myself to get some scrap Ivory and coin or sterling silver... 
 

Running the Rendezvous circuit to the tune of half dozen  a year

You lucky dog!    I've never been to one!     I haven't heard of to many of them here in Jawja though...    None as a matter of fact!   

your interests are varied,

I know...    I've always been that way...  My Daddy always called me a "Jack of all Trades, Master of None."     I prefer to think of myself as one of many and, like you said, varied interests.     You shoulda seen the looks I got when I rode my bike to a sewing class flying my colors!   
 

I really must dig out the olde camera and set to taking a few photo's of this build to share.

Please do!     I love to see what others are doing!  And the input I get from y'all really helps me.
 
I finished the stock shaping I wanted to do, I really need to comment on that on the stock thread, and filed a slight draft into the lock plate.  Maybe I'll start inletting it tomorrow.