Author Topic: 22" mann forearm on 26" barrel (Read 1019 times)

Deerhunter#1 · « **on:** February 22, 2013, 03:11:09 AM »

wanted to see if anyone has one on a 26 inch barrel and how they like it. Was thinking of getting one when in my blinds i like to lay the gun on one of the positioned limbs and thought that the stock laying on it would be better than the barrel. didnt know how odd it would look or even help

gcrank1 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 22, 2013, 04:06:09 AM »

Good luck finding one!
I currently have my factory Mannilicher for a 22" (Thanx BB!) on my 24" 12ga. slugger; it kinda resembles the foreward end of an old mil-surp rifle, and I dont mind that look. The factory one is too chunky and needs a fair bit of refining of line to be a tolerable Mannlicher anyway (that would be a good winter project).
FWIW, Ive never seen or read anything about direct contact of a forearm to a hard rest to be anything but bad. It is often recommended to place your hand between the surfaces. Still, I suppose you should try it to know what happens.

Deerhunter#1 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 22, 2013, 04:18:26 AM »

gunstockinc has them in stock rite now. I know there is alot said about where to place the foream for best accuracy but I hate shooting off hand. I would rather have a bench rest sighted in gun shooting 1" moa open up to 3 inches at 100 yards if shooting off a solid rest in the blind. Never find that the situation gives enough time or allows for enough movemnt to lean the gun all the way out and rest it on the receiver without an animal seeing me. That is why it would be convieninet just to be able to have the mann and just use the stock length to my advantage. guess i will have to try it.

gcrank1 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 22, 2013, 04:30:27 AM »

I dont even set to the action when Im benching either, 'cause I dont shoot that way. Most all shooters from blind I know are resting somewhere under the forearm, and depending upon their seated position and the shot, it is likely with the front underhand toward the tip of the typical forearm while they 'lean forward'. I cant remember seeing anyone in a hunting situation sitting back in the chair while resting the front of the barrel on the rail and shooting from the 'easy-chair' position. Other than black powder muzzleloader 'chunk-gun' shooters I dont know anybody who even uses the way front rest position under the barrel. I think the nature of modern cartridges and barrel harmonics may preclude that rest position otherwise we would be seeing benchrest competition shooters using it. I suspect it will throw a bullet 'way high'.

Deerhunter#1 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 22, 2013, 04:45:01 AM »

I guess a good compromise might be a bc carbine forearm or even one from the handi grip as it is a bit longer than the standard forearm if correct

nanuk-O-dah-Nort · « **Reply #5 on:** February 22, 2013, 04:50:12 AM »

I'm never seen a "mann" forestock that would fit anything buy my 157.

the takedown screw boss is located differently.

does someone sell fullstocks for a standard handi?

gcrank1 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 22, 2013, 04:55:09 AM »

The BC 'Carbine forearm is the same length as the std bullnose or schnable, only the BC or TM are the longer length and they are walnut, so unless you have a walnut buttstock (BC or TDC and ?) no match, and they are kinda pricey.
Are you using a scope? I wonder if anybody has tried some foam 'pipe insulation' around a barrel to provide a soft rest point farther forward rather than have to get a hand under? Still, if you ain't hanging onto it, the recoil impulse is going to be changed shot to shot. Or how about some of that pipe insul. on those positioned limbs?

bikerbeans · « **Reply #7 on:** February 22, 2013, 06:31:48 AM »

Quote from: nanuk-O-dah-Nort on February 22, 2013, 04:50:12 AM

I'm never seen a "mann" forestock that would fit anything buy my 157.

the takedown screw boss is located differently.

does someone sell fullstocks for a standard handi?

nanuk

The older style (IIRC, original H&R) Mann. foreends had the stud located further down the barrel. The newer Mann. forestock, by HR1871, the stud is in the same position as all their other forestocks.

BB

gcrank1,

if you get tired of that barrel overhanging the end of your Mann. forestock I can have the good folks at Profino Industries give your barrel a nose job.

BB

gcrank1 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 22, 2013, 06:49:17 AM »

BB, I dont know if I could stand the 'class' of having a real, HTG 'Profino'!
Hey Deerhunter#1, now that Ive done my best to talk you out of a Mannlicher, I will admit to very much liking the idea of a full length one, nicely proportioned, on a 26" H&R. For proper proportions look at the real Mannlicher Schoenauer or the Ruger No.1 International or RSI. I think it would make your rifle a real classy looking piece. The H&R plastic nosepiece may be still available from GunParts, or a more pricey steel one from NECG or Brownells, but there is nothing wrong with a graceful wood schnable alone up there (which is what I will do when I get to carving).

Deerhunter#1 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 22, 2013, 07:07:54 AM »

you know I think I am going to try and make one myself. gunstockinc has the 22" I sent them a message and they said a 26" is custom and they could make it but will be expensive and didnt even give me a price. I think i am going to give it a try with a cheap piece of oak first and see how it turns out. Will lets you guys know how it turn out.

gcrank1 · « **Reply #10 on:** February 22, 2013, 07:15:11 AM »

Oak is pretty hard to work, though plenty strong, I give you that! But you would find working Beech or Poplar much easier, and someone used Redwood too. Basswood would be light! I even saw a pine one that the chap had picked a good dense piece of wood with some figure and with some maple stain looked good.
Since its a 'Mk I' version for you dont make it too hard a wood or you may lose enthusiasm before you get it done. I did a straight grain Maple stock once.........but tiger stripe would have been even worse.
Goodonya for wanting to give it go!

Deerhunter#1 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 22, 2013, 07:29:51 AM »

Going to hit the lowes and see what i can get and the project will begin. Thanks for the info.

rdlange · « **Reply #12 on:** February 22, 2013, 12:15:33 PM »

Route a round bottom groove down the middle of the piece of wood. It will save alot of work and keep the barrel channel straight.

Deerhunter#1 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 22, 2013, 01:18:29 PM »

Well went with poplar as they had 2x2 inch by 3the ft blocks for 5bucks. Was going to use a dremel but decided to do it all by hand with wood chisels to get the grove. Wood is flying its slow but i see progress.

45-70.gov · « **Reply #14 on:** February 22, 2013, 01:44:57 PM »

oak has a tendency to warp with moisture changes

nanuk-O-dah-Nort · « **Reply #15 on:** February 22, 2013, 03:04:13 PM »

I've seen Eastern Larch that was absolutely gorgeous for its grain, and contrast.

it would look better than a Lam stock.

Deerhunter#1 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 23, 2013, 06:59:36 AM »

Finished this morning pretty happy with the results

YRUpunting? · « **Reply #17 on:** February 23, 2013, 07:13:57 AM »

Looks good to me. I'll be interested how the poplar holds up to use. How difficult was it to get the post hole correct?

gcrank1 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 23, 2013, 07:14:46 AM »

WOW, you dont linger, do ya!
That looks pretty nice, love the longgg look. Tell us about how it all went, how that wood worked, etc.

Deerhunter#1 · « **Reply #19 on:** February 23, 2013, 07:32:56 AM »

I got the 2x2 block and ran a line down the middle. The fisrt thing i did was drill the hole for the barrel lug. without a forearm spacer just measured from the end of the wood to the receiver knowing I would have wood to play with because i would have to cut it for the spacer anyway. Then I centerd the barrel on the board and drew the diam with a pencil to get the width needed. Then was just time in useing the chisel to remover the wood . Next time i will use a dremel as i would save about 2 hours work. once the channel was done I just used a rasp to round the bottom to where i wanted it. It is a bit wider than a factory one but i have big hands so actually wanted it that way. The stain is a bit dark but will do. Lowes only had 1x2 in maple as that is what i wanted but will have to search for a piece for the next one.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #20 on:** February 23, 2013, 08:39:40 AM »

Nice work!!

Tim

mechanic · « **Reply #21 on:** February 23, 2013, 08:57:54 AM »

Like that!

Ben

bikerbeans · « **Reply #22 on:** February 23, 2013, 03:20:00 PM »

BB

hoytcanon · « **Reply #23 on:** February 23, 2013, 04:01:29 PM »

Quote from: Deerhunter#1 on February 22, 2013, 07:07:54 AM

you know I think I am going to try and make one myself.
Well went with poplar as they had 2x2 inch by 3the ft blocks for 5bucks. Was going to use a dremel but decided to do it all by hand with wood chisels to get the grove. Wood is flying its slow but i see progress.

Oak is too porous for a gunstock, the lateral rays really feed into the grain and poplar, while easy to work with is a very weak, soft wood. When you start with a rectangular stock material it is always easiest to rip the barrel channel on a table saw... by moving the fence over in small increments and adjusting the blade depth you can cut most of the channel in a matter of five minutes and just use a dowel and sandpaper for the final shaping. You looked at the Gunstocks Inc Mannlicher forend... another way to go is get the 22" chop the end off square and glue an exotic hardwood or other to the forend tip to extend it to whatever length you need.

Quote from: gcrank1 on February 22, 2013, 07:15:11 AM

Oak is pretty hard to work, though plenty strong, I give you that! But you would find working Beech or Poplar much easier, and someone used Redwood too. Basswood would be light! I even saw a pine one that the chap had picked a good dense piece of wood with some figure and with some maple stain looked good.

Beech is a decent wood, it takes tight grain to show well with a clear stain, but it has good strength, poplar and basswood are not good choices for gunstocks... never worked with Redwood... Elk Slayers work looks nice with it.

Quote from: 45-70.gov on February 22, 2013, 01:44:57 PM

oak has a tendency to warp with moisture changes

That is its laterally porous nature.

Quote from: nanuk-O-dah-Nort on February 22, 2013, 03:04:13 PM

I've seen Eastern Larch that was absolutely gorgeous for its grain, and contrast.

You can find some very funky grain in larch, but unfortunately nothing warps like larch either.
I have done a couple stocks in walnut tipped with Bubinga and Cocobolo... and another in purpleheart and ebony... that one sold at the range its first time out... the offer was too good but after all that work it hurt a little bit.

gcrank1 · « **Reply #24 on:** February 23, 2013, 04:21:05 PM »

FWIW, I made the Poplar suggestion for an easy to work, inexpensive and available choice that can finish up pretty decent. The context here for an H&R forestock doesnt require a wood that is particularly strong, it just doesnt need to be like it would for a boltgun and such, it just kinda hangs on out there as a handle to grab and help hold the barrel on when opened.
Lots of ways to skin this cat

Deerhunter#1 · « **Reply #25 on:** February 24, 2013, 10:20:34 AM »

Well that quick i decided the stain was to dark so changed it and in the mean time figured a shnabel forearm 13to inches long would be good as well. Now i just need a reply to my wtb a stock and spacer forearm so i can refinish the stock and have a matching pair. This forearm building is getting fun

gcrank1 · « **Reply #26 on:** February 24, 2013, 12:07:41 PM »

FWIW, I recommend a Monte Carlo type buttstock for scope use to get a consistent cheek position.