Finishing a build - Barrel and breach plug

[AtlLaw]

The barrel was a 42 or 44 inch, 32 caliber, Green Mtn. octagon.  I was going to leave it full length but in my travels I came across an original "squirrel rifle" and took some measurements.  From them I decided that a rifle of this small a caliber would be fine with a 38 inch barrel.  So I cut it down!   
 
Were I to do this over again I would probably opt for a .36 caliber.  The 32 may be fine for squirrels but, rightly or wrongly, I have come to believe it is a little bit "light" for even turkeys.   
 
The first pic shows the whole barrel.
 
Naturally since I cut the barrrel down I had to recrown it  pic 2

[AtlLaw]

I couldn't remember if I finished the crown so I checked it pretty carefully.  No burs, seemed square.  Except for needing a finer grit finish it looked pretty good to me.  First pic shows the crown.
 
One last thing about the barrel.  In my youthfull exuberance I apparently did things when I felt like doing them rather then in a logical sequence...    The next pic shows an underlug that I dovetailed into the barrel before I cut it down.  Fortunately the reduction in barrel length didn't effect the placement of this first underlug.  It will however cause me some problem that I will point out further on when I fit the breachplug.
 
BTW, the obvious rust spots on the barrel only give me a headstart on browning it.  But I am thinking of rust bluing the metal so if I do some polishing will be in order!   

[AtlLaw]

Well, the breach plug is fitted.  And I have more Prussian Blue on my hands then I used on the rifle!   
 
Unfortunately, my I phone isn't cooperating with me so I can't take a picture.      I hope I can get it going tomorrow! 
 
Next up is checking the barrel inletting into the stock!   

[AtlLaw]

Okay, not the best pictures in the world, but I have a before and after!   
 
Normally this is a fairly easy proposition.  But since I had already dovetailed an underlug into what was the bottom of the barrel, I had to make the plug fit 180 degrees from that flat.   
 
Naturally, when I closed the gap shown in the first picture, the plug tightened up just past the top flat!     So then it was file some of the breach face, and fit, then file some of the plug and fit, and on, andonandonandon.  I musta screwed that plug in and out a hundred times!   
 
But the plug finally came around, so to speak, and I got a nice fit.  Pic 2
 
Now I have to file the top of the tang down to level with the top flat of the barrel and this part is done!   

[Victor3]

Well, the breach plug is fitted.  And I have more Prussian Blue on my hands then I used on the rifle!   
 

I used to use way more of it on telephone handsets and the guys eye-loupes at work than anywhere else. 

[AtlLaw]

Man that is cold!      That stuff takes forever to wash off!   

[AtlLaw]

One of the things I did this weekend was to profile the breach plug.  It took a goodly bit of metal removal from the top and botton of the plug and then draw filing of the pug and the barrel, but they are now neatly mated.   
 
Then I filed a draft in the sides of the plug and used a cold chisel to indent a witness mark where the base of the plug and the bottom flat of the barrel meet.
 
In getting the top flat of the barrel and the tang part of the plug joined I ended up draw filing a portion of the barrel.  Now I'm wondering if I should draw file the sides and the top 3 flatsof the barrel like I normally do.   
 
I had not planned to do that as the way the barrel is now I have a jump on the browning process.  That is the rust build up from the last 20 odd years...  But I would hate the browning to not be even... What cha think?   

[necchi]

You should be able to lightly work the file marks off then I'd  just block sand the flats with 220 wet paper prior to a browning job.

The uneven rust from shelf time will show through when a complete browning is done, but again I wouldn't go through all the work draw filing the flats
 
p.s. I'm going through much the same as you are now, picking up where a feller left off 12yrs ago on a Penn long rifle build. I've had to change a few things he had planned and work around some of the things he started, but just getting my teeth into the begining of a biuld. I hope to have it completed and well broke in by early June.
Working that darn butt plate now,     

[mechanic]

Richard,
 
I have a Baldour high speed buffer that I polish knives on.  Iffin' I had the barrel I could put a high gloss on it.....
 
Ben

[AtlLaw]

The uneven rust from shelf time will show through

That's what I was wondering.  So I guess at least you and I are agreed, I'll get the top five flats ready for browning.     It'll be interesting to see how the finished product compares; the top five to the bottom three flats!   
 

I'd  just block sand the flats with 220 wet paper prior to a browning job.

I never tried sanding the barrel.     Draw filing always felt pretty easy to me and seemed to give the right surface for browning.  So I guess the question is, do I want to try some different?   
 

I have a Baldour high speed buffer that I polish knives on.  Iffin' I had the barrel I could put a high gloss on it.....

Um,  Well, golly gee wizz Ben... Not that different!!     But thanks...   NOT!!!   
 

I'm going through much the same as you are now, picking up where a feller left off 12yrs ago on a Penn long rifle build.

Well Shoot Necchi!  Keep us posted!  Posts by folk here have helped me alot in getting the look of the finished rifle firmly set in my mind!
 
For example, after a lot of cogitating on Flintlock's comments on cast off, I decided to try to build some more in.  I knew F'lock was right but for some reason I still tried to convince myself that enough cast off was built in when the stock was shaped.     Anyway, if I've measured right I should have enough wood for maybe up to an eighth of an inch cast off.  And that will give me even more proud wood on the left side of the stock for the cheek piece and relief carving!
 
So, I believe member's observations and comments will make this a better build!   
 

Working that darn butt plate now,     

I have to say inletting the buttplate is my least favorite part of a build...    But I'm a long way from that stage!  Heck!  I've got a lot of work to do just shaping and finishing that rough sand cast plate I have!   
 
My one problem is that I have no idea what I'm going to do with this rifle gun when I finish it!     But who cares!  It's the journey that's the fun!   

[necchi]

if I've measured right I should have enough wood for maybe up to an eighth of an inch cast off.  And that will give me even more proud wood on the left side of the stock for the cheek piece and relief carving!

Uhm, be carefull here with that cast off stuff and get it right. Check out pages 28 and 29 of this pdf build guide;
http://www.homegunsmith.com/cgi-bin/ib3/iB_html/uploads/post-71-31335-black_powder_build_primer.pdf
 
Too much cast off changes the dynamics of the rifle lines and adjustments to the butt plate toe and even the trigger guard need to be made to keep the thing from looking like a boomarang. An average guy only needs a little like Mike Brooks describes to make shooting a bit more comfortable,
Cast Off is used for right hand shooters, Cast On is used for lefties.
 
My stock is like yours in that's it's preshaped and not a blank like Brooks, but I've been able to lay a centerline and pull the butt plate just a smidge to the left, then I'll balance the butt stock itself so that it'll look even on each side when viewed from the rear
(The cheek is another issue)
 

[AtlLaw]

Thanks for the link Nec!  I hadn't seen it before.  One can't have to many references!   
 
He is using a different build sequence then I am.  It is like the one I started to use on this rifle way back when!  If you remember from previous posts I had already inlet the tang I was originally going to use and cut in one of the underlugs.
 
I'll watch the cast off.  I sure don't want this thing to look like one of those guns made for a right hand shooter with a dominant left eye!   

[JonnyReb]

  Found this thread missing its brothers and thought i'd bump it up. Am looking forward to seeing the results of your brown job!   Jeff

[AtlLaw]

Hey Jeff!   
 
I'm moving pretty slow on this rifle gun.     To many other distractions.  Pesky things like work and honey-do's... 
 
Plus I'm doing other things like getting more (better) chisels for carving the stock and stuff to practice engraving.     Remember, I'm using this build to try stuff I've never done before!   
 
So browning the metal is a long way off.  But even then I'll have to build a humidity box first!   
 
I'll get back to this thread pretty quick though!  Got to inlet the rest of the tennons into the barrel and shape  & bend the tang!   
 
How are you coming with yours? 

[JonnyReb]

  After 20 years of holding onto all the pieces and parts..whats another year or two? To bad we're not 200 years previous when such projects as building a rifle took precedence. Honey-do's were scarcer before electricity was harnessed i'll bet. No wonder men had time to build such masterpieces

  My little resto job on the M.R. is coming right along nicely. The plum brown has been carded or steel wooled down 5 or 6 times now and the daIly rust effect is lessening, leaving a pretty nice deep brown. Just finished the stock with 1\3  turpentine\beeswax\linseed recommended by P.A. here on GBO last year, great mix and the stock looks awesome but it takes forever to dry. After reading of the mix online i found it was very popular on 1800 and civil war rifles, might be something to consider for your project stock.
                                                                                                                                Jeff