heating barrel to remove permanent locktite

[black lab]

I am mounting a Marble's front ramp on my rifle and plan on using the puny little screw that came on the gun. I was thinking about using some permanent locktite is hold it securely but I'm wondering about if I want to change it at some point. It say's it can be removed by heating to 450* F Will that much heat damage the bluing or anything ? At what point will heat damage the bluing ? Is there a better option ?

[quickdtoo]

Purple Loctite is made for screws that small, no heat needed, blue is for over ¼", I use purple.

Tim

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/445105/loctite-222-threadlocker-purple-10-ml

[hillbill]

450 degrees could probably be attained with a heat gun, which is just hot air and should not damage blueing.ive also read of freezing the part overnight in your deepfreeze will release it. but ive never tried that.
 
ive always used blue loctite on guns with good results.it seems to hold screws well and is not a pain to remove as is the red. i save my red loctite for old farm machinery and old harley davidsons.

[black lab]

I was planning to use the locktite as a filler so to speak to help firm everything up. I only have blue locktite so I might as well try that and see if it holds. If not I'll step up a grade. Thanks Guy's

[hoytcanon]

I use blue Loc-Tite and it works well, usually breaks free without heat... But the proper way to apply heat is to heat a steel rod "red hot" and hold it on the head of the screw for a few seconds, then torque it out... This method protects the finish and will not distort the bore, which would be a greater concern than the finish.

[black lab]

I didn't use locktite on the screw. I put a bit of grease on the screw and a bit of Break Free CLP down the hole. I'm only using the locktite as a filler between the barrel and ramp and the dovetail.Time will tell how it holds up.

[hoytcanon]

For that sort of bedding job I use a black two part epoxy made for assembling golf clubs, it is thicker and "high shear"... Once the screws are tightened down, you wipe away the excess epoxy that oozes out... The remainder stays in place and doesn't continue to "seep." The black color matches most barrel and accessory finishes pretty well and it looks good when done.

[gcrank1]

FWIW, 451 F is what paper burns at.

[quickdtoo]

I didn't use locktite on the screw. I put a bit of grease on the screw and a bit of Break Free CLP down the hole. I'm only using the locktite as a filler between the barrel and ramp and the dovetail.Time will tell how it holds up.

Black Max 380 would be my choice for that, it's made for mounting sights, seems to me it can be removed with 250º heat, lapping the sight to the barrel so it fits the contour would make for the best mounting. I've used it a few times, good stuff, mounted a WGRS on my 12ga 1908 to locate the holes for drilling, after marking and center punching the holes I tried to knock the sight off with a hammer and block of wood, took a few good whacks to remove it.

Tim

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/thread-locking-liquids/black-max-adhesive-prod6139.aspx

[gcrank1]

I have used the 'red' Loctite to fill smallish gaps successfully, it comes off pretty decent with a little heat and a brass scraper.