H&R 223

[RobW.]

 Can't get it to group.  Tried all the tricks in the FAQs but the gun just won't shoot.  Even sent it back and had a new barrel put on because it came with a 1-12 and they put on a 1-9 twist.

[hoytcanon]

Are you using one load or have you tried multiple loads... Factory fodder or reloading? What have you done to the stock gun???

[HWB13]

 As Hoytcanon said, we need much more info than provided.  You go to the doctor and tell him it hurts when I do this and he says don’t do that.  Get out of your diagnoses what you put in. Ammo tested, any and all modifications to the rifle, scope type and mountings, shooting off the bench in a vise, bags, or bipod.  Even range conditions and distances.  All go into a proper diagnoses, if we could go to the range that would be ideal. So Rob fill in the blanks and you will get more help from the members here than you will know what to do with.
 

[RobW.]

Shooting factory rem 55 gr soft points or 55 gr mc's.  Both shoot about the same for me and there's really nothing else available to me.  I don't want to reload for it, can't find primers or powder anyway.  I've shimmed the forend to clear the barrel completely and now I started shooting it most times with the forend removed.  I have a lead sled that I sometimes use but best shooting comes from bags.  I'm shooting on a 100 yd. police outdoor range with burms built all the way around it so wind is not a factor at all.   I'm sure that a trigger job would help, but I'm not willing to try it and too cheap to have it done. 

[hoytcanon]

You are really limiting the accuracy advice available... You say you "shimmed" the forend; how did you do that? Also shooting without the forearm can sometimes be a problem unto itself... If you are resting the barrel on bags or sled arm then you are applying pressure and shifting changes to the harmonics... You would be better off pillar bedding the forarm and shooting with it on. My first advice is to double and triple check your scope rail/rings and scope to takw them out of the equation, nine times out of ten your problems will end there. Since you don't reload, I would recommend that your next step be to try the Winny White Box ammo, it should be available in your area and it shoots very well in all of our Handi .223 1:9's (it does in the 1:12's also). The DIY trigger job is not a very difficult thing to do either, don't be afraid to try it... There are step-by-step video's on YouTube to keep you on track. That's about all I've got to offer with the info available. 

[Singlebarrel]

My 223 barrel is a good shooter out of the box.  Check your rifling and your crown. If you do not feel comfortable in checking it out find someone who knows what they are doing.  I have had a lot of experience with bad barrels. 

[otter5555]

Can't get it to group.  Tried all the tricks in the FAQs but the gun just won't shoot.  Even sent it back and had a new barrel put on because it came with a 1-12 and they put on a 1-9 twist.

my 223 handi has the 1:9


it shoots 1 minute or less with everything i throw at it (55 gr or heavier)
it will not shoot lighter bullets
BUT, out of the box the trigger was 6 pounds on a digital scale


i installed the ez trigger assist and now it is 28 oz


no other mods, tricks, etc


it even shoots my 62 gr cast reduced load 1 minute

[Sourdough]

Put an O-ring under the forearm.  Check your scope mounting.  Then shoot off bags with the bags under the pivot point of the gun.  Don't shoot off the sled, too much pressure on the front of the forearm.  I shoot off snowmachine seats, 4-wheeler seats, shooting sticks, or tree limbs, but I always make sure the rest is on the pivot point, not the forearm.  I bust a 4" clay target at 500 yards every shot. 

I use the Federal Factory duplication load.  55gr Nosler Ballistic tip, or Speer Soft Point.  In front of 26gr of Winchester 748.  Winchester SR primers, and Winchester brass.  In fact I use this same load in all my .223s, with good results.  At 100 yards I shoot clover leafs with my H&R Ultra, T/C Contender Pistol, and Carbine.       

[Guy Pike]

Put a price on it, I might take it!

[gcrank1]

It doesnt hurt to visually check a new to you barrel for any 'odd looking thing' inside first to rule that out.
Then, do you know that scope is OK? By that I dont mean was it OK the last rifle it was on, but is it OK now.....put it on something else you know is a good shooter and prove that scope.
While it is off, take off the factory scope rail and check all the screws for being 'not too long' and that each will tighten the rail down (dont just check that the screws are tight, take the rail off and check each screw one at a time in its hole. Once thats verified, cinch it all down and start the rings check. If you are unfamiliar with it, ask here or check it out online for some tips.
Without the above done first you are spittin' into the wind.