Author Topic: Bench advice  (Read 747 times)

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Offline stork

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Bench advice
« on: February 16, 2004, 06:04:03 PM »
I almost have every thing to start reloading, but i have no idea how i am going to build a bench.  I am fairly good at working with wood and if I get confused my dad will help me.  My bench will be built  in my bedroom, which is fairly big, so space is not a huge factor.  I will be reloading for a couple different calibers.

How big should I build my bench?

What should I use for the top?

How should the frame be built and what should it be made of?

How much shelving should make?

Offline John Traveler

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reloading bench
« Reply #1 on: February 16, 2004, 06:38:38 PM »
The rule for building a reloading bench is:  The heavier, the better!

You need weight to hold that press down when you full-length resize cases.

The easiest and cheapest thing to do is find a good used STEEL desk.  Dimensions will be about right to keep everything in easy reach.  Bolt a 1 1/2" thick SOLID door to the top.  Drawers and storage are built in.

If you are determined to build your own, make it like this:

I'd start with 4"x4" posts for legs, braced up with 1"x6" horizontal pieces, storage shelf 12" off the floor, and multiple shelves or small cabinets on top.  Room for reloading manuals, die sets, small tools and accessories.  Top should be a minimum of 2'x6".  Bigger is better.

The top should be 3/4" thick plywood minimum.  Two thicknesses are even better, then you won't have to reinforce the front edge with a 2"x4".  That front edge takes a lot of stress when case forming or resizing.

Some people swear by a top made from edge laminated 2x4" nailed and glued up.  That is REALLY heavy-duty!

Height should be comfortable for you when sitting on a tall stool or standing up.  About 32-34" is right.

Plan for lots of storage space for cartridge cases, tumbler, bullets, die sets, case trimmer, powder measure, etc.

HTH
John
John Traveler

Offline The Shrink

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« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2004, 01:41:03 AM »
Stork

If you know much about wood you know that hardwood is denser than soft.  I plan to make mine more as a piece of furniture, and of Red Beech and Oak, so it won't be quite as massive but equally strong.  Mine will be in a corner, so an L shape.  The top will be two 3/4"+ (whatever is left after I surface plane) laminated pieces of Beech.  This should be strong enough for anything I plan to do on it.  

I'm planning for legs that are two piece glued with a structural cross piece in front under the drawers and a full structural back.  This should brace the top adequately for the torque that will be applied.  Storage under to provide weight low, storage above in a separate unit.  

The upper portion will have an eye-level mount for my powder scale.  The rest is storage, some in ammo cans (powder and primers), bullets and die sets and other stuff on shelves and in drawers.  One area will be relatively tight so I can include dessicants and store die sets and bullet molds without fear of rust here in Tidewater Virginia.  

It's still a work in progress, and I need to build a model yet.  This gives you some idea of how I'm thinking.  

Wayne
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Offline Dave in WV

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« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2004, 02:51:25 AM »
If you use multiple layers of plywood for the top, use liquid nail between the layers and anchor them with screws and liquid nail. A local gunshop owner told me he uses an old oak teacher's desk for his bench. It's the right height to sit, is heavy duty, and has lots of storage.
Setting an example is not the main means of influencing others; it is the only means
--Albert Einstein

Offline Questor

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« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2004, 04:56:33 AM »
Think massive. Mine is made of 2x4s and 2x6's and is firmly anchored to the wall and floor.  You can wail on an anvil on that thing and it hardly even vibrates.  A good epoxy paint is a good thing too because you need a durable finish.  Carriage bolts make good fasteners. A few inches above belly-button level works well for me.
Safety first

Offline longwinters

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« Reply #5 on: February 17, 2004, 12:56:06 PM »
Do a search on "reloading benches" and you should see several recent discussions on this fun topic.  My bench is aprox. 2' deep by 4' long.  I have 6" deep shelves on the back (3 high).  Thirties gives very good advice.  Make your shelves so that your scale is at eye level.  You will experience quickly why this is a real neck saver.  It is also very handy to have your powder dispenser mounted just off to the side of your scale.  Helps with minimizing motion.  You will also want easy access to your reloading manuals as well as your "recipe book".  I use a computer chair (with wheels) to sit on and my bench is a couple of inches higher than my belly button.  Personally I would not like standing or sitting on a stool, but other people prefer this.  If possible try not to have any drawers under where your press will be mounted . . . makes it kind of hard to pull open a drawer when the press is in front of it.  Some people use solid doors, double layers of 3/4" plywood etc...  If it would make a good work bench,strength wise, it will make a great reloading bench.  

long
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Offline ButlerFord45

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« Reply #6 on: February 17, 2004, 02:37:47 PM »
This sounds like instructions for bomb shelters.  A frame made of 2x4 studs with a double 3/4 plywood top will be more than addaquate.  Shelves, that can't be stressed enough, no matter how many you have, it will eventually not be enough.  Elmers wood glue properly applied, clamped and allowed to cure will hold the two pieces of plywood together quite nicely.  Height, a personal thing; but, it will be too short for some tasks, too tall for others and just right for probably nothing. Depth, it's easy to make it too deep, 24-30 inches will be close to being right.   When you build the frame, don't forget to adjust its depth to allow for a 5-6" overhang of the top to allow for the mounting of your presses and tools.  One of the better ideas I've employed was the use of pegboard for the back, I use it almost as much as the shelves.  When putting your frame together, if you put your bracing on the inside, you will have an easy means of adding additional shelving/storage underneath.  IF you  and a couple of your friends were to stand on the handle of your press and be able to tip this over, put a couple of bags of shot on the lower back brace.  This will make for extra weight (50#) that is removable which will made the bench easier to move when the need arises.  This amounts to a bench on the cheap, if you have something in mind more in the line of furniture, http://stevespages.com/ , has the plans for a really nice, well thought out reloading bench.  There is an added benifit  to checking that site as well if you're unfamiliar with it, it's a little gold mine for reloaders.
Butler Ford
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Offline one more encore

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Reloading bench plans
« Reply #7 on: February 17, 2004, 02:44:01 PM »
Do a search for "NRMA".They sell a set of plans for building a hell for stout reloading bench. Also, are you sure you want this thing in your bedroom? Reloading can be kinda messy. If you have a basement w/ a concrete floor - that would be the ticket.

Offline stork

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« Reply #8 on: February 17, 2004, 06:06:02 PM »
No, I'm notsure I want this in my bedroom, but it is the only place in the house that there is enough room and can be by myself.  My bedroom is in the basement, but my floor is carpeted unfortunitly.

Offline longwinters

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« Reply #9 on: February 18, 2004, 03:52:53 PM »
You will be fine.  Just remember to have it quiet (no rock n roll) :) when you are reloading.  Concentration and paying attention is paramount when reloading.

long
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Offline The Shrink

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« Reply #10 on: February 19, 2004, 01:06:24 AM »
Stork

Check office supply stores or catalogs for the plastic things they sell to put on carpet for desk chairs to roll on.  It won't be a complete solution, and you will probably want a vacuum at hand, but it will help.  I reload on a wood floor, often barefoot in the summer, and often painfully find spent primers!

Gotta get a press with a drilled through column, huh?!

Wayne the Shrink
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Offline Dave in WV

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« Reply #11 on: February 19, 2004, 03:15:44 AM »
Stork, I've got a little story we all may find funny since the bench is going in your bedroom. In 2002 I flew on a commercial flight to Tampa, FL on a business trip. When I arrived at the terminal in Tampa for my return trip home I was asked to remove my shoes by one of the security people where your carry on bags are checked and you walk through the metal detector. I complied and the security oficial took a round cotton patch and rubbed all over my shoes inside and out. Then the patch was placed in a machine to scan the patch. I suspected the test was for traces of explosives. Fortunately the scan was negative. I asked a deputy on duty nearby if the test was for explosives and she said yes. I commented I needed to keep my shoes somewhere else other than under my reloading bench! She laughed and agreed. Just a little info on where not to keep your shoes.
Setting an example is not the main means of influencing others; it is the only means
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Offline williamlayton

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« Reply #12 on: February 21, 2004, 06:36:23 AM »
Bomb shelters and Benches. Both must be sturdy and pleasant to the eye. Now i'm havin problems with tha pleasant to tha eye part, A square and level are hard fer me to unnerstand.
4X4 legs, let in 2X6 and 2X4 bracing secured with wood screws. Secure to the wall, not the sheetrock, tha studs, I'm gonna use lag bolts.
I'm gonna make the top of screwed and glued 1/2 and 3/4 plywood with a hardboard finished top.
Gonna rim it with oak to level tha top so as tha plywood edges doan show.
Now all I got to do is take ma time an do it purty--Thinkin this is not a possibility with me.
Blessings
PS--gotta lotta help frum these boys. They is good hands.
TEXAS, by GOD

Offline bigjeepman

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« Reply #13 on: February 21, 2004, 07:15:36 AM »
Stork ...

Read the reply by John Traveler and follow his advice. I build all of my own furniture and just built my first reloading bench after Christmas. I built it using 4x4 untreated lumber for the legs, 1x6 pieces for the top of the frame, and 1x4 pieces for the framing for the  full size shelf I made under the top with 10" of clearance off the floor.  My bench top is a 1.5" laminated top that was given to me and it measures 24x72 and is 36" off the floor.

I also made units to sit on the bench top with shelves and an enclosed place to keep powder. I made these from 1x8 material and the biggest one measures 8" deep, 38" long, and 15" high. This left a 16" work area and a place to keep my scales at eye level sitting on top. I also made another shelf unit that measures 6" deep, 22" wide, and 24" high that I use for storing my case preparation things such as manual case trimmer, spray and dry lubes, hand priming tool, etc. I placed one unit to the left of my bench top, one unit to the right, and my manuals and record books in between.

The smartest thing I bought for my bench was the RCBS Assessory Base Plate-2. My Rock Chucker press and powder measure on it's stand are then attached to this plate with bolts instead of having to drill all kinds of holes through the top.

Hope this helps ... good luck.
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free your heart from hatred ... free your mind from worries ... live simply ... give more ... expect less

Offline williamlayton

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« Reply #14 on: March 01, 2004, 12:59:39 AM »
Now that we are back in bidness let me ask you folks to post some pictures of your benches. I'm looking for Ideas on shelving, both under counter, over the top or on tha side.
You boys been a bigger help than you can emagine.
Blessings
TEXAS, by GOD