Cannon accuracy + canister loads

[Calamity Jane]

Whal, I ain't got very far on improving the accuracy of me cannon - mainly 'cause its been too cold to go shootin 'n' I ain't got NO response from the rifle shooters 'cept to patch the ball (which I am very leary of 'cause I don't wanna get one stuck 'n' I don't wanna cause unnecessary pressures).

I'm going to try a newspaper wad twixt the ball 'n' the charge - might even make a convex rammer so the ball gets a good seat.

I'z considered some kind o sabbot, but don't know how to make one tough enough not to come apart and soft enough not to jam in the barrel.

Nuther Idear I had waz to make a mould to cast  hollow base conical - try to keep the weight the same (or similar) while giving it a more aerodynamic shape and a thin skirt to exxpand 'n' give a better seal. (I ain't never made a mould before, but I got a piece of aluminum bar in the cupboard that'd be jist about the right size.)

Fer them of you what's been shootin cannons fer awhile, what kind of accuracies are you getting?

I'm gettin a lot of people askin to see a "grap shot load". I've seen pictures of a tin can, wrapped with hemp, and filled with lead balls. Unfortunately, I can't find any tin cans 1" in diameter. I could make a cup out of light galvanized metal but that seems a lot of work.

Has anybody tried a wooden base (wad) and balls wrapped in tin foil? I don't know if it would be strong enough to get down the barrel in one piece. (Or maybe I can find 5 Ga. shotgun wads  :shock:  )

All ideas appreciated.....

[Double D]

Approach it just like you would any other firearm reloading issue. Record you load data, and only change one variable at a time.

Try to avoid the tunnel vision.  You are so focused on patching the ball that you may not see what the proper solution is.  You have a lot of issues to deal with in your gun.

What powders have you tried?  Fg or Cannon?  Start there first.  Try different Powders and different weights of powder.  Find a powder load that shows promise

Next change means of ignition. Does the load shoot better with a precussion cap, fuse or a powder train.  

If you see one of the sources of ignition seems to work better than the others, go back and try a different  powder load with.

I assume you are casting lead ball. Vary you alloy and see what effects that has.
 
I strongly urge you to pick up a copy of the Complete Cannoneer also.  It covers a lot of the issues you are asking about.  Including making sabot and wads.

Canister just makes your gun inot a big shot gun and aren't even fun, but make a few just to get it out of your system.  I did.

[Cat Whisperer]

I had a friend that did some canister rounds.  Said it worked too well on ducks - two boat loads full.  Don't remember the count but it's one of those things that fits the category of "it seamed like a good thing at the time".

I have some 1" diameter steel I can send if you want to try it.

I think the choices are:  (Short of going back and adding rifling.)

round ball
shaped projectile
dart shaped projectile
fin stabilized (fins pop out after out of the tube).

[Cat Whisperer]

In conversation with a friend today, I learned he used CRS cut off in cylindrical form about .010 smaller (diameter) than bore diameter (1-1/4" bore) and it works well out to 200 yards.

Something to consider.

[Calamity Jane]

I'd be afeard of that scratchin up me bore! Doncha think that'd be a problem?

If the snow 'n' cold goes away, I'm lookin forward ta tryin some different wads, like newspaper, wood disks, etc. ta see if I kin get a ball to shoot better beyond 50 yards.

Waz thinkin about using some PVC pipe ta make canisters but don't know what ta use fer a botttom plug without addin too much weight.

I'z also considerin casting some 1" conicals but I don't have any info on how projectile weight will effect chamber pressures 'n' I don't wanna damage me cannon!

[Cat Whisperer]

AAARRRGGGHHH!!  The new-car syndrome!!

With a 1" bore you really need to make a mould - for accuracy.  The first-prize winner (of that particular year) that I saw was a hollow-base wadcutter about 1-1/2 to 2 calibers long.  Hollow base depth was about 1/2 the length.  The 100 & 200 yard targets were neat clean circular holes.

What about rifling the bore?  

I agree with the pvc pipe - filling the end is an issue.  When I/we come to a good solution my application is a fully rifled 20ga single barrel.  (20 ga is exactly .625 bore diameter as is the od of 1/2" cpvc pipe - engraves perfectly.

What about using a sabot?

It seems to me that shotgun slug accuracy improves as the length of the slug gets longer.  Therefore you'll see the wads on some brands firmly attached to the slug itself.

Shooting in the snow (fresh snow) is fun - and socially acceptable this time of year - after all cabin feaver should be getting intense about now.

[Calamity Jane]

Been loogin fer 5 Ga plastic shotgun wads - that oughtta be danged near perfect fer a 1" bore - but ain't found none yet.

Thought about making a hollow base conical mould - that might happen before winter's out.

Been tempted ta roll it out of the shop 'n' shoot in the snow - rekkon the report would be purdy neat in the deep cold when sound carries so well - but considering the time of year, if I let rip with me cannon right now, my neighbour's cattle would probably drop a dozen calves!  :shock:

[jimwaits]

Stumbled on your older post and wanted to say I used a 1 7/8inch hole saw and ground off the teeth. I sharpened it on a small belt sander and whack it with a hammer to cut out my wads. You might try that using a
1 1/8inch saw to get a tight wad in your one inch cannon. I have tried cork as well as the vegetable fiber stuff the smoke pole guys use. Both work okay for me.
Walmart has sheet cork about an 1/8 inch thick in the stationery department.

[Cat Whisperer]

Cool idea on the use of the hole saw - easy to do by chucking it up in a drill press.

Cork is also sold in sheet form for bulletin boards.

Wood was commonly used as a base for grape shot rounds - with bands holding the stack of balls onto the base.