How accurate is your factory 26" rifle barrel?

[Runs with Scissors]

Let's see what may be expected of T/C factory barrels.
I think this information will be valuable to a potential Encore owner.
He/she may just want to hunt and super accuracy may not be an issue.
On the other hand, target shooters need to know what to expect.

The poll is for all calibers at 100 yards[/b ]and average groups

[DannoBoone]

May we assume you mean "out of the box" accuracy? Mine was just
less than four inches out of the box. With my own efforts and special
loads, it will do 3/4".  Which figure do you want?

[Runs with Scissors]

How did you do it?
My last Browning shot 1" groups out of the box. The same scope is on my Encore.
My iron-sighted Mini 14 shoots 4" groups at 100 yards. I'm not surprised. I expected it.
I did think the Encore could do better than 2".
If it will help, I have the factory .270, 24", "Rifleman" 3X9X50 on T/C rails, and I shot Winchester 130 gr. factory ammo. I have laminated wood, but the forend is not floated. My trigger was factory, but I'm in the process of having it reduced to 1.50lbs.
I'm really not a bad shot, and I'd like to shrink my groups.
I've had great luck with the old Contender, but I can't sort out this Encore.
My last groups were 2" @ 100 yards.

[DannoBoone]

Trigger Job
Floated Forearm (later went to VVCG's forearm & hanger bar system)
Hand-lapped the very rough bore.

The above may have helped "somewhat", especially handlapping the
barrel. However, there was also .003" clearance between the end of
the barrel and receiver. It was later determined that the chamber was
reamed .005" too deep.  The combination of these two factors allowed
properly sized cases .008" to "flop" around in. I realize a couple
thousandths is OK and even preferred by some, but .008"  From the
suggestion of a knowledgeable reloader, I began using .270 cases,
trimming the neck down and giving the neck a "false shoulder" so the
case would just fit in the chamber with the action closed. THAT's when
the groups shrank to down to an acceptable level. Oh, yes, my
barrel is a 25-06.

Have no idea if this is your problem, but if it is, there's always 30-06
cases you could try the same thing with.

[Runs with Scissors]

Thanks for your reply.
The trigger is being done right now at Virgin Valley.
I've done the "O-Ring" spacer and want to at least give it a try. I went with the laminated stock and forend from Arthur Brown.
Can you get WCG's bar and forend that might match it (Nutmeg)?
I also hand lapped my bore and it did take a bit before it felt right.
I would have never thought about using 30-06 brass. That's great info because I'm setting up some reloads right now.
Everything will come together soon-maybe even next weekend.
I think I'll have a shooter by the end of the day.

Bill

[DannoBoone]

I went with the laminated stock and forend from Arthur Brown.
Can you get WCG's bar and forend that might match it (Nutmeg)?

I would have never thought about using 30-06 brass. That's great info because I'm setting up some reloads right now.

I think I'll have a shooter by the end of the day.
Bill

Virgin Valley's hanger bar is spaced so that the screws for the posts go
into the holes for the original forearm screws. Then their forearm screws
go into holes on the hanger bar itself. The forearm is recessed (I believe
by a router) to accept the hanger bar and fit around the barrel. Therefore,
it's doubtful that any other forearm will fit, unless Bullberry hanger bars
and forearms are set up identical to Virgin Valley's.

I used 30-06 military brass (5 cents each) back in the '70's to size down
to 25-06 cases. Takes quite a bit of neck trimming, but worked great.
Just never thought of false shouldering 'til a helpful gentleman suggested
doing so.  If you shoot a cartridge, and attempt to resize it and either
you get a crunched shoulder, or a neck pushed down into the shoulder,
then the chamber is too long for your sizing setup. That's the quickest
(and cheapest) way to tell if you have the same problem as I do. The
simplest remedy is then to back off threads on your resizing die. In my
case, there was just too much play in the chamber for virgin brass to
get any accuracy at all.  That's why I had to go to the next caliber up
and wildcat it with a false shoulder, and then back WAY off the resizing
die (compared to a correctly reamed chamber) for the next reload.

After what you are doing, it should be a shooter. The only thing that
could cause accuracy failure, is an off-center chamber. Let's hope that
is not the case.