Author Topic: Almost there (Read 483 times)

Tad Houston · « **on:** March 25, 2004, 12:51:53 PM »

I accually made some smoke with my just finished GPR. Just a few flashes in the pan, but its a start. Seems like it took about 15 strikes for the first one, Then two or three for the second one, then 4 flashes in a row. Guess the flint had to break in. Still so new to this i have'nt even loaded a charge yet, but i'm getting close. One thing i forgot about is the ram rod- it is still bare wood. Should i treat it or somthing? My guess is just stain and maybe tru-oil.

KING · « **Reply #1 on:** March 25, 2004, 01:21:49 PM »

:grin: Tad. The important thingie is that you are having fun. I try to treat my ramrods by soaking in Kerosene for a couple of months. This gives them a little more" bendability" in case you get a little carried away with it. Once I am on the shooting range I use a loading rod and leave the rifles ramrod in its thinbles on the rifle. Some might not agree with this,but it keeps things simpler for me. Go over the ramrod and make sure that all the growthrings are parallel and non run off to the side making it a weak rod. Last year,while hunting,I had just shot a nice buck with my brand new .58 Longrifle. In reloading prior to looking for the deer(went a whole 5 yards) my rod broke. Had to make one out of a small sapling in order to get the load down the barrell. Welcome to the club of flinters,it is almost like a virus...... nothing will get rid of it except to get more flinters. Stay safe.King...............also get some English flints.

rollingb · « **Reply #2 on:** March 25, 2004, 01:42:38 PM »

Tad,.... Don't fergit to "pin" the ramrod-end,.. it'll save'ya grief on down tha line!!

crow_feather · « **Reply #3 on:** March 25, 2004, 02:19:14 PM »

King has a great idea in having a range rod. I prefer one made of metal for two reasons. I don't havta worry about loosing the brass tip and a metal rod packs enough weight to assist getting the ball down easier. Just use a brass muzzle protector when you use a metal rod.

The proper way to insert a flint (bevel edge up or down) is the way in which it sparks best in your rifle. Also, I use a #2 drill to make a slightly larger hole in the touch hole which helps ignition. Some like it - some don't.

My GPR flint kit needed the pan deepened in order to work it's best. It was easy with a dremel tool.

Also some shooters put a feather quill or tooth pick etc. in the touch hole prior to loading, pulling it out after seating the ball. You do not want the touch hole filled with powder - it becomes a fuse.

I wish you the best with your GPR. It is the class act of the front stuffers.

C F

Ohio Joe · « **Reply #4 on:** March 25, 2004, 04:57:31 PM »

Like, King,,, I also soak my ramrod for a few months in a tube filled with, lamp oil. It seems to make the rod more flexible and forgiving... A few years ago at, Rendezvous, a fellow buckskinner showed me his ramrod... He had slightly cupped the end to conform with the ball he was loading, and also had bored a slotted hole about a quarter of an inch from that end to accept a spit patch if he had to swab between shots, or if loading got hard... I really liked that idea and have been using that style of ramrod ever'since... Another thing I do when shooting flintlock is to carry a rag in my sash and wipe the frizzen and flint between each shot... You may want to give these idea's a try? :-) Of course nothing can replace a good cleaning/swabbing rod at the range. :grin:

simonkenton · « **Reply #5 on:** March 26, 2004, 01:10:51 AM »

I use a mixture of turpentine and linseed oil to soak the ramrod.
Get a length of pvc pipe. Glue an end cap on it. Fill it with the liquid, put in the ramrod and slip on the other end cap. I have two of them soaking right now.

Tad Houston · « **Reply #6 on:** March 26, 2004, 05:30:29 AM »

Thanks for all the great information! do i stain the rod before or after i soak it? I guess i'll try shooting the gun before altering anything on the touch hole or pan. Thanks again- Tad