Lee's REAL Bullet.

[Lucky Joe]

I would like to know if any one here has had any experience with the Lee REAL bullet in their Inline's. Input from all calibers is appreciated but especially the .50 cal. users as that is what I have. Which weight is prefered and how about accuracy.

Also just in case have any of you used this bullet in a traditional muzzle loader.

Thank You,

[jgalar]

I have just started using a Lee 250 grain REAL. I can't give you an accuracy report as I am still developing load combinations for my 4 50 calibers. It works well in 1-48 twist traditional rifles and my Rem700ML.

It is very quick and easy to load. I have mixed bee's wax and crisco at 50/50 as a lube. I melt the mixture and with tweezers dip the bullet in to cover the grooves. When I pull the bullet out the mixture solididfies instantly.

I am going to stick with ball and patch on the traditional guns, but the REAL in a speed loader will make for a quick follow up shot.

[Roger_Dailey]

I have just started playing with the 320 grain, 50 cal in a Green Mountain, 1 turn in 28 inch twist barrel.  As I have cast them, they run about .514-.517 of an inch.  That makes for some difficult loading and not very good accuracy.  I have been trying to size them down to about .505 to .510.  They load a lot easier and the accuracy seems to be better.  I need to do some more testing.

[AllenRead]

I've only poured one batch of the 320's.  The main problem that I had was avoiding a void in the base of the bullet.  As lead cools, it shrinks.  When my technique was not good I got the void.  As usual, when all else fails, read the instructions.

The bullets without the void were not quite as accurate as no excuses bullets with the same loads.  However, this is probably due to my poor casting technique and differences in bullet weight.

I have not had a chance to pour another batch.  When I do, I will sort the bullets by weight.  

Be sure to follow the safety precautions as well as the casting instructions.

Good luck!
Allen

[lonewolf5347]

I have to say the REAL 320 grain shoots great out of a 1 in 32 twist barrel using a wonder wad over the powder.
There is a guy that sell them from FLA. called black jack hill, 50 rounds for $11.00 that includes shipping,a little less for softer REALs $9.00 for 50 rounds  
My home made lube is 50/50 beeswax @ crisco and a tablespoon of olive oil.

[rickyp]

I have a Improved Minie, Traditional Design 50 Cal.
 .500-360GR mold. I use pure led for  the bullets. out of my 14 inch 209x50 contender the point of impact at 50 yards was about the same as my 240 sabots but  hit about 2 inches to the right, and out to 100 yards the drop was about 2 feet the load is 90 grs of pyrodex P.

I just saw that they make a real 250 gr bullet, and now I really want to try them out in my barrel to see how they work.

The only lube i have been using is t/c wonder lube. I had several tubes and wanted to use it up.  

do you think candle wax would work in place of the bees wax?

[Longcruise]

I tried them in a .50 and .54 TC with 1/48 twists.  They shot cloverleafs at 50 yards but were barely on the paper at 100 :eek:

If those molds are still around they are for sale cheap :grin:

[jgalar]

If the candle wax is petroleum based paraffin it wouldn't be a good idea. (most are made of paraffin)

You can get bees wax at a craft store or order through the internet.

I wouldn't recommend carrying a pistol with the REAL loaded. After the initial push getting it in the barrel, it slides down very easily. If the barrel is carried muzzle down the slug can move away from the powder.

My 250 grain slugs measure .518 on the top ridge and .508 on the bottom ridge. Using pure lead I don't have any problems getting them started or loaded.

[Ironwood]

I cast the 320 grain REAL bullet for my .50 caliber CVA Hawken with a 1-48 twist.  With a scope on the rifle and shooting off the bench I get  1" or less three shot groups at 50 yards.  I'm shooting that bullet with 95 grains of Goex FFG.  I would think the bullet would be even more accurate in a faster twist barrel such as 1-32 or 1-28.  

I've killed several deer and have seen many more that were killed with various calibers.  I'm a little hard to impress.  I've only killed one whitetail doe with the REAL bullet, and I've got to admit I was impressed with the performance of the REAL bullet.  After traveling through about 3 feet of deer it still weighed 303 grains.

[lonewolf5347]

Ironwood since you cast your own REAL my question is are the soft or hard,seems the guy I purchase my REAL from has two different grades.He sell 5 BHN SOFTER grade @ 10 BHN HARD.
What is the difference between the two?

[RandyWakeman]

I hate to say it - - - the hardness.

For conical use you want soft, pure, lead. Actually, for saboted use-- you want the same. You might want to ask on the casting forum for specifics.

[Ironwood]

Lonewolf.... Randy's right.  The difference is the hardness of the lead.  For my muzzleloader the purer the lead the better.  I use scrap lead but only lead that can be dented with my thumbnail.  I guess we could both profit from visiting the casting forum.  

[jgalar]

Sounds to me that he casts one out of pure lead and one out of wheel weights.

To get one cast out of wheel weights down the barrel you would probably need a hammer

[Lucky Joe]

Thanks to all who have responded to my post. If there are any more keep em comming we can all learn.

Thanks,

[lonewolf5347]

WELL I JUST GOT THE SOFTER ONES IN AND IF THE RAIN WILL STOP I WILL SEE IF THERE IS ANY DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TWO.