Wacky how do you forge your drag points?

[RdFx]

Also how long of chains do you use on yr drag set ups for cats and canine?

[Wackyquacker]

I want to file a protest...RdFx types in three lines and the rest of us have to write dissertations. :eek:   That's just plain cheatin :evil:

The easy answer first; 8 too 10 feet of 3/16 welded link chain give or take.  I come off of the trap with a swivel, short length of chain, swivel, 8 or so feet of drag chain attached to the grapple with a 3/4 too 7/8 inch lock washer with the split tacked welded for good measure.  The heavy chain keeps the drag on the ground and the points digging in.  Unless, that is you have tangle with something that has either horns, antlers or proportioally long ears and resembles RdFx in its behavior  

I forge points with a 3 pound hammer, coal forge and 50 pound anvil not neccesarily in that order.   I' ll have to take a couple of PICs to show you how I made the forge, bending jig and finished grapple.

The first order of business is to heat the tips of the round stock (I prefer 1/2 for yotes and cats but 3/8s will do in cover especially if you go too the long side on the chain).  The first 3 or so inches, of one end of the 30 inch length, must be red hot but not "rotten".  To draw the point whackem flat turn 90 degrees and whackem again.  Keep the steel hot don't try to work it when it cools.  I draw a 3 or so inch long point and "sharpen" it with a series of precise light hammer falls.  I try to have the first 8 or so inches of the rod fairly hot when I "sharpen" the point...I can then form the hook and offset with out further heating (which too often damages the fine point).  

To form the hook and offset I have a bending jig which I fashioned out of a piece of 2 inch diameter pipe.  I weld a 1/2 link of chain onto  the side of the pipe, insert the formed, sharpened and heated point into the link, wrap (bend) the rod around the pipe to form the hook and lift the end to make the offset.  After the first point cools I start on the other end.  

Once both hooks are complete, I measure and center punch mark the mid point of the rod, heat about an eight inch section centered on my mark, bend the rod in half on the mark and hammer form the eye.  Before I hammer the shank tight (when forming the eye), I slip on the lock washer and if needed  twist the hooks to achieve proper alignment.  The shank is clamped in a vise and finished with a weld to secure the shank sides to each other.  

I weld each tip of a "V",  fashioned from a 6 inch length of 3/4 inch strap to the approximate apex of each grapple bend.  This plow is also offset, such that when the primary drag point is digging in the "unwelded" corner of the plow attached to the opposite (up point bend) also digs in.  In this manner the two points work against  (kick) each other into the ground making two distinct and drag marks.  In loose soil the "V" catches soil and forms a plow ridge.

PICs to follow.


Hope this helps some.

[RdFx]

Pictures are worth a dissertation of a 1000 words or more :wink: . More graphic  explanations would be beneficial for   beggining trappers.  Hey Bog you listening???  Put a disc on of running water or a thunderstorm and you will feel  okay reading these dryland  posts :-D

[Wackyquacker]

Ok here are some PICs"

The Forge




Bending Jig.  The two stuby lugs oppsite the verticle pipe is were I bend the shaft to form the grapple shank.



Bending Jig showing use to bend and offset





Finished drag showing dimensions




Offset detail





Plow detail






Hope this helps some.

[RdFx]

Great depiction of process  Im sure this will help  trappers who want to make  some drags or at least know what properly made drags should look like and the deminsions.  The off set  of the drag points is perfect  and with the cross piece on drag apexes makes points  work to thier maxium... Thanks Wacky.

[Bvtrap]

Wacky
 You said you use 3/16 chain for your drags. I take it thats the thickness of the steel the chain links is made up of. I have to get some drag chains and have a hard time understanding the numbering codes the hardware store uses. They have one sized chain that I was looking at, that reads 3/16 x sumthin' x sumthin', it's a welded straight link chain thats rated at 600 lbs working load. Does that sound about right ?

[Wackyquacker]

I don't think there is much magic in the chain other than weight.  I suppose that the welded link types lay in the bed better than twin loop.

The 3/16 is, as far as I can tell, the stock diameter and 600 lbs sounds familiar.  I believe the style is straight link machine chain as opposed to passing link or twisted link.   Now there are numbers also and I THINK the stuff I have used is #3.  Price is important...the imported stuff is almost 1/2 of brand name.  I get mine from my feed store who order it for me 5 gals (250 ft) at a time.

Now if you have yard sales / garage sales you often can pick up tire chains...one or two cross chains (twisted link) and one perimeter chain makes a nice drag set up. :wink:
Hope this helps some.

[Bvtrap]

I don't think there is much magic in the chain other than weight. I suppose that the welded link types lay in the bed better than twin loop.

I don't bed the drag /chain with the trap. I stretch the chain out in a trench and place the drag behind the set. Since this is the case I guess the "working load limit" would be the most important consideration when selecting chain. What would you consider the minimun safe working load limited for coyotes.  :?
I did the tire chain thing!   The trouble is I have them all bought up that I can find already, and I was starting to cut up my good logging chains. :twisted:

[Wackyquacker]

To fix your immediate problem, simply stop cutting your logging chain :-D  :-D

Minimum working strength, wow!  I guess I never thought of it that way.  I've seen some pretty light chain on trap rigs.  I routinely use the factory chain that comes with Bridger traps which is way lighter than 3/16.  As you well know the weakest link in any trap rig would be the non-welded rivets which attach the various components.

I and many others have use miles of twin loop chain.  The breaking strength of this rather light chain was not the focus of my concern rather it was the lack of weight and to a lesser extent it's "kinkiness".  

A good drag rig hooks things and produces / leaves a readily followed trail.   To some extent then, a "good  rig"  will be defined by the region, critters and habits of its user.  Some fashion "heavy grapples" to insure the best possible drag marks others use lighter  terminal tackle and longer chains., etc., etc.  In my country the classic grapple rig with heavy chain hangs them well.  My worst case scenarios include open, wet hard frozen ground.  In these conditions there is no question that sharp points and terminal weight are critical for the production of trail markers.

Hope this helps some.