Author Topic: Carbon or Aluminum? (Read 886 times)

New Hampshire · « **on:** March 30, 2004, 11:33:31 AM »

I still have not gotten my bow set for me yet, but when I do I figure on getting all the details out of the way right then and there. So Im looking for opinions. Should I set myself up for carbon arrows or Aluminum> Currently the bow is set up to shoot aluminum. I plan on getting a whisker disk rest, so I will need to know in advance what kind of arrow I will be shooting so I can get the proper hole size. I honestly dont know how much of a difference either makes, so maybe y'all could kinda clue me in. I know Carbons are lighter, therfore go faster. But thats about the extant I know about them.
Thanks,
Brian M.

Thomas Krupinski · « **Reply #1 on:** March 30, 2004, 12:01:16 PM »

Brian I think you would be better off with carbons. They are more durable than the aluminum and while they do break, they do not bend like the aluminum. With the aluminum you are wondering if your arrow is stright, with carbon it either is or it's broken and in pieces. There are a lot of other advantages for the carbons, they are stronger and in my opinion take quite a bit of abuse. They are all that I am using anymore, even on my recurves. I used to use aluminum many, many years ago, but the carbons are better. There are places where you can order them very reasonably.

Now as to the wisker biscuits, I have them on both of my compounds and so does everyone I know who hunts with a compond. The only difference in the biscuits for the carbons and the aluminums is the size of the hole for the difference in the hole diameter. You can use carbons with the aluminum size hole.

However when shooting either type of arrow with a biscuit rest there is only contact with the biscuit on one side, that is the bottom. All the other sides have space on them fromt he biscuit fibers. So when you shoot it really makes no difference if there is a big space or small space, as the shaft is only bearing surface is on the bottom. The biscuit around the rest of the shaft is just to keep it from falling off when you are doing other things.

New Hampshire · « **Reply #2 on:** March 30, 2004, 01:38:32 PM »

COOL! Thanks Thomas. I guess Ill just get the aluminum sized whisker bisket. I got a dozen aluminum arrows with the bow. The person who last had them had put his name on the fletching (per our laws,) and I cant get the marker off. I figured I was gonna just use those for practice and get some more arrows for hunting. Now I guess I can hold myself over practicing with the aluminums till I can order me up some carbons. I know Im probably gonna have to re-adjust the sight pins when I switch, but at least I can get some practice in till I can afford a dozen carbons. Now I guess the only thing left to do is pick a broadhead, but I wont start THAT debate here :wink: .
Thanks again,
Brian M.

Thomas Krupinski · « **Reply #3 on:** March 30, 2004, 02:18:26 PM »

Brian, not only will you need to adjust your pins, but you will also need to adjust your rest to tune your arrows to your bow. If you practice with field points, you will need to tune your bow by moving your rest to find the spot where your broadheads and field points are shooting to the same spot. If the wisker biscuit rest you have is the deluxe version where you can move it up and down this helps a bit as otherwise you will need to move your nockpoint.

Bowhunting is very similar to other addictive hobbies for certain personalities (myself is an example) where you can start doing more and more of the stuff yourself. One of the tools you should consider is a fletching jig to replace vanes on your shafts. The one I use is the AZeaasyfletch. They make one for carbon size shafts and one for aluminum size shafts. Replacing vanes, as well as feathers, is something that occurs fairly often as the vanes are easily damaged from hits by other arrows.

Check the catalogs and do some research on this and other tools. Part of the fun is doing it yourself, like casting your own bullets, making your own ammunition and developing your own loads. It's just part of the fun, you don't have to do it, but why miss out.

Redhawk1 · « **Reply #4 on:** March 30, 2004, 05:15:51 PM »

New Hampshire, everyone keeps telling me I need to go to carbon arrows. I have been shooting aluminum arrows for over 25 years and have not had any problems at all. Yea I have bent arrows while practicing, I use new arrows when hunting. I buy a dozen arrows at a time and practice with half a dozen and keep the other half dozen for hunting. I have an arrow spinner to see if arrow is bent. I do not straighten out bent arrows, I just trash them. I keep getting told to switch because they will be faster. I am shooting through deer as of now. I have retrieved all my deer I have shot with aluminum arrows. As fare as the cost, it has no affect on why I don't use them, I just know what works for me. One funny thing about us bow hunters is, if we loose an arrow we will look for it all day. But I think of how much I shoot my 45-70 with 500 to 550 gr. bullets and spend hundreds of dollars a year but don't worry about the cost. It is just something that makes me laugh. But either arrow you choose will work, it is just personal preference.

Daveinthebush · « **Reply #5 on:** March 30, 2004, 06:25:35 PM »

I shot aluminum for years and switched to carbon. With 8" of foam target I tore the fletchings off the first 4 arrows that I shot as the fletchings penetrated the foam. Boy did they penetrate! One shot disposable arrows that cost $10 a piece! :eek:

When I started shooting the deer target I found that unless I hit it straight on the carbon whipped and shattered. If I hit one, it was a gonner. So back to aluminum, can't afford these things. (75 lb. Pearson shooting about 210)

Aluminum has always worked great and I have 2 dozen XX75's for the past 5 years. I keep 6 brand new shafts for hunting only. I only shoot them maybe 5 times a season and one shaft per target.

Now..... My new BowTech is supposed to be arriving tomorrow. I told the dealer I was setting up for grizz and moose and they suggested Easton carbon Axis 340's and 100 grain broadheads. (60 lbs. at I hope 330)

I will have to set it up and see how it shoots. Just hope the principal doesn't walk into the woodshop this weekend as I set her up and shoot! :roll:

WNY_Whitetailer · « **Reply #6 on:** March 31, 2004, 07:46:49 AM »

I shoot carbons on my newer Pearson Spoiler Lite and aluminums on my older Browning wheel bow. The carbons are obviously lighter than the aluminums and therefore make the bow louder when fired. I can attest to this because I shot the carbons out of my older Browning and boy was that thing loud. My Pearson is a quieter bow and the carbons do not affect it as much. But it, too is even quieter with the aluminums...

Thomas Krupinski · « **Reply #7 on:** March 31, 2004, 03:46:58 PM »

Brian, when you have a chance take a look at this outfit. They periodically have specials and some good deals on arrows and shafts.

http://www.mountain-archery.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=17

SingleShotShorty · « **Reply #8 on:** April 20, 2004, 10:46:41 AM »

Let me see Carbon or Aluminum? I would shoot ACC and have the best of both worlds. I have shot them target, 3-D, and hunting for some time know and love the performance plus they allow you to tune your broadheads just like aluminum arrows.

Dutch/AL · « **Reply #9 on:** April 21, 2004, 06:55:18 AM »

Ditto on what Tom has stated!

Carbons use to cost a whole lot more than they do now. Nowdays you can buy a dozen carbon shafts and fletch them yourself as cheap as aluminums.

As for the weight factor, out of a compound you should have no issues with penetration unless you don't have your spine correct. If that were the case, you would have your arrow coming out of the bow sideways, and that would be what caused your penetration problems, not the weight of the arrow.

If however you shoot say a 40 pound selfbow,

and you want to shoot carbons, you can always weight them up heavier to achieve the penetration you need. Gold Tips have internal weights, and there are also weight tubes for sale that will work on almost any brand of carbon.

In my experience, the only negative aspect I can find with carbons is that they last so long, I don't get to make new one's often enough.

My current batch of carbons I have been shooting for a year and a half with the same arrow wraps and fletchings. It's about time to strip them down and refletch them. The feathers are wearing out on me. :grin:

New Hampshire · « **Reply #10 on:** April 21, 2004, 12:01:45 PM »

Well a guy at work gave me a book called "Bowhunting Equipment and Skills" by four authors. I am still looking at carbons, but now I am considering getting an arrow straightener for aluminum. I am curious if it is difficult to learn how to do this? The book says its a great way for aluminum shooters to save money. I looked at the A/C/C prices. Now Im not afraid to spend a little extra for quality, but the prices on these kinda have me cringing. Cabelas had some for about 70 bucks for just 6. I dunno. I guess Ill have to talk with the guys at the sport shop and get their reccomendations since Ill be down there getting the bow worked on anyways. The guy who gave me the book said he would go with me also since he knows the owner of the shop we will be going to.
Thanks.
Brian M.