If you plan to purchase this rifle in any configuration this information may be of use to you. I have the R1 carbine in 30-06. After firing over 400 rounds of factory ammunition in the gun, one trip back to Benelli, and further experimentation on my part, this is the report.
All ammunition was tested at a measured 100 yard range, from a bench with the forend rested on a sandbag, and the butt rested on a sandbag and pulled tight against my shoulder. This method allows me to shoot 1 inch or better groups with other rifles from the same rest.
The gun has never malfunctioned, it works perfectly with every type of ammunition. The chamber and bolt are hard chromed. I like it's modularity, ease of cleaning, the ability to adjust drop at comb and cast in the stock, as well as ease of LOP adjustment. I also like the reduced felt recoil that the gun produces. It is noticeably less than my bolt action 30-06.
The tightness of the wood forend screw plays a key role in the accuracy and consistency of the gun. The sling swivel is an integral part of the forend screw. To carry the gun by sling swivel can result in forend screw becoming loose. This is my experience, but others have not had a problem with this. I felt that I had to over tighten this screw using a steel rod though the sling swivel hole which is part of the forearm screw to keep it from becoming loose.
When first purchased the gun seemed to be inconsistent, firing 2-3 inch groups with any type of ammunition at various areas of the target. When sent back to the factory, they made a minor adjustment on the gas nut position, and sent it back to me with two targets showing two 1.5 inch groups shot a 100 yards with WW 150 grain power points. My first trip to the range after it's return produced multiple 3 inch or so groups, very roughly centered on the bull using the same ammunition. Calling the factory again and complaining the gun smith began by asking me how tight was I making the forend screw. I told him "very tight" so that it did not come loose while carrying the gun. He suggested using loc-tite and just making it tight enough to hold the forend from moving. This seemed to be a novel approach for a $1000.00 gun, but never the less, off I went, blue loc tite in hand and a box of 165 grain WW power points. Shooting the gun with the forearm screw finger tight but with blue loc-tite to prevent it from moving, produced a couple of 1 inch or better groups when allowing 20 minutes between groups for barrel cooling. Overall after shooting a 3/4 inch group with cheap WW powerpoints purchased at WalMart, that was in the red 1 inch center of the target, I felt that I was on to something. The Benelli gunsmith did tell me that the R1's liked Core locs and Power Points just fine.
Disassembly is not difficult, use a steel rod (drill bit) to loosen the forend screw (be sure to use the right type of loc tite), clean and reassemble. If you want a gun that points and shoots like a good shotgun, this could be your ticket. I did use it to take a small buck last year with ballistic tips (which I have decided I will not use again in any gun) The only Con is the loc tite business and crummy instruction manual. Maybe next year Benelli will put spring detents on this screw like they have on the gas nut. If wish they would make a 358 Win barrel for the gun I would buy it in a heartbeat! Jimmyp
