Need Advice on the Walther PPK

[Original Ken]

I am considering getting a Walther PPK in 380 as a backup carry gun and somethime as a primary carry.  I have been carring a Ruger P95DC in 9mm and it is a horse to tote around after several hours.  My Dan Wesson 357 2" snub or my Smith Model 19 357 is not much better.  I know the Walther's used to have a high reputation but I see that the newer models are now made entirely in the US.  Are they the same quality as the ones made in Germany??  I have found several on Gunsamerica.com and the prices seem to be around the $400.00 mark.  Any advice you can give me on this piece would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks much and you guys are "the best" source of information that I have found in a long time.  

[Mikey]

Hay Mr. Original Ken:  Oh just get one, willya.  The quality of the Walthers made here will be the same if not better than those made in Germany - I really believe.  If S&W makes them they will be of known quality - they've been in cahoots lately.  Carl Walther Waffenfabrik would not relegate the quality of it's design and production cababilities to a lesser standard and I would have absolutely no problem purchasing a new, American made Walther pistol.  And don't forget Ken, if something is not to your satisfaction with the functioning or smoothness of the pistol, you don't have to ship it back to Germany to have it fixed and get all sorts of bilingual in the process.  

I think I mentioned to you that I would love a PP in 380 but they are way more expensive than the PPK or PPK/s, at least the last time I looked.  If you decide to purchase a new Walther, stock up on ammo for it so you can break it in right.  Those things are quality made and tight and a few hundred rounds through it should smooth it out and get it right for you.  By the way, I don't know if anyone ever performed a torture test on those things but I would expect them NOT to fail.

Just make sure you disassemble the piece first, get the packing grease out of it, wipe the rails and barrel with a good quality grease, like the axel greases with the moly disulfide in it or the graphite lube that comes in the cleaning kits, (and then wipe it off 'cause the moly stuff stinks like 80/90 rear axel fluid) and then oil it up with a good motor oil like 20/50, with your fingers - don't let excess oil or grease accumulate during the break in period.  Once you have her properly lubricated, take her out and break her in right.  After that, lubricate only with the motor oil, you shouldn't need anything else.

Use S&B ammo, get a bunch of extra magazines with the finger grip on them and send all the girls over to where I am so I can explain it all to them.

Then, we expect to see a picture of the targets.  I'll send back a picture of the girls.  This is Mikey.

Ya know ol buddy, your dan Wesson and your Model 19 are medium frame revolvers and all steel (not light  in weight).  My Model 38 Airweight Bodyguard and the new Titanium and Scandium revolvers are smaller framed and much lighter.  If you're considering dropping to a 380 from a 9mm or 357, have you thought of one of the lighter weight J-Framed Smiths in 38?????  If you don't like the DAO hammerless design, concealed hammer pieces are available as are grips to enable it to fit your hand better.  Just thinking, that's all.

[Original Ken]

Hey Gatofeo - Thanks for all of the info on the PPK and PPK/S.  It sounds like the gun can be a real workhorse.  I am going to pop for one in the next month or so.  Receiving all of the info from you and Mikey helped me in making my decision.  I reviewed the Kahr's and they looked rather impressive but they are also on the high $$$ side.  Again thanks for the info guys!!!!   :-D

[Mikey]

Hay Gatofeo:  That is some interesting information on your PPK and the one your cousin purchased.  Was his from the same manufacturer as yours????  

I recommended that particular pistol, or the PPK/S to the Original Ken because of their reliability and longevity.  I have seen a few of those pistols put through some very hard use and they are like a Timex watch - they take a licking but still keep on ticking.

Also, I have never heard of a Walther pistol not lasting beyond the 5,000 round mark.  I knew a few fellas in the service who swore by them and also swore that they would never wear out.  

You are correct, it is an all steel gun and a quality product.  Most of them may never see the type of practice and use your cousin put through his but the fact that it has near or more than 8K rounds through it and nothing functional broke should be testimony to the longevity of these pieces.

However, it is not uncommon to have springs lose tension, firing pins break or even extractors break in lots of military sidearms at or around the 5K mark.  I replace my springs in my 45s every 5K rounds just to be safe.  But I have never heard of a Walther kickin' the bucket at 5,000 rounds.  In fact, I have never heard of a Walther pistol kickin' the bucket, period.  I once had an old wartime P-38 that I shot unmercifully.  The top part of the slide that covers the firing pin and chamber indicator even flew off once and after putting the thing back on a couple of times and having it fly back off again I just shot the darn thing without it.  Not a whimper out of it.  If I didn't already have an all steel 380 that I like as much as I like mine, I would Walther myself right up again.

Just my two cents worth.  Mikey.

[Mikey]

Gatofeo:  You are absolutely correct about all those pistols languishing in drawers when they should be out at the ranges and I further agree with your longevity estimates.

I have lately - past 3 or 4 years, been using S&B 380s in mine, only because of the low cost, performance and reloadability.  Never had a problem with the stuff.  The Russian Wolfe ammo gives my old 70S Beretta the fits though.

I haven't squashed any fingers reloading the 380 since I found the S&B ammo but when I did I simply replicated factory loads with cast bullets.  The accuracy and performance was excellent, but I had to wait a week for my fingers to return to shape before I could shoot the stuff.

I really want Ken to get that Walther so I can go visit him and play with it.  I advocated he stockpile about 500 to 1,000 rounds just to break it in - I just didn't tell him that I wanted to shoot all of that ammo myself.  

I can't think of a better way to help a buddy.  This is Mikey. :-D

[Original Ken]

Mikey - I JUST knew there was an alterior motive to you telling me to bang 5,000 rounds through the PPK I am looking at.  Hell man, YOU want to be the one doing the blasting.  Hey that would be fine with me.  With your wealth of knowledge on handguns you are welcome to come and visit anytime you want.  I will even buy all the ammo and targets and get you your lunch too!!!!!!!!!!!  There is a small catch to all of this:  You know the Walther originally came from Germany.  I know a bunch of "dollies" in Frankfurt and Munich and they are coming to see this match that you are going to put on with the 5,000 rounds.  I tried to contact the actual girls I knew when I was across the pond but they reluctantly volunteered their daughters (and sometimes granddaughters) to come to the match.  They are ALL German and at least 5' 7" tall and measure 36-24-38 and they are single.  The girls and I are going to sit in a nice air conditioned area doing what we do naturally while you bust your hump on the range.  If there are any "goodies" left over at the end of your shoot you will be welcome to come and enjoy em.  Thanks for all your info Mikey and how in the hell did you ever become a Moderator?  This be you know who.   :-D

[Mikey]

Original Ken:  You are not just bad, you are really bad.  There I would be out on a blistering hot range working my poor ol butt of trying to get any and all bugs out of that Walther fer ya and where wouldya be at - inna air conditioned room with a bevy of beauties and a beltfull for cold frosty ones.  Would there even be one left to replace the sweat, no!  Would any of those dollies be the least inclined to offer me a cool cloth for my fevered brow, not after you've gotten through with them, I'm sure.

Well, a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do, so we'll swap midway through the break-in.  I'll practice my German and my savior-faire, you can finish the break-in and the girls can tell us what great menchen we are.    I guess I have to go practice with my 380 to get in shape for this match, jawol?  

Mikey. :-D

[L-Roy]

Mikey and other shooters,
The replacement of recoil springs needs to be done when said spring looses tension and becomes out of spec.  I don't think this may be determined by a certain number of rounds.  Think for a moment about whay you may shoot.  Sometimes, you may shoot moderate to light loads.  Then again, you may shoot moderate to heavy loads.  This is to say that more recoil, more stress on the springs; less recoil, less stress on the springs.

With that in mind, I have always used spring length as a guide to replacement.  First, you need to measure your recoil spring upon installation, and make note of its length.  Always use the longest spring possible without coil binding the system, as this gives the best control of recoil and cycling of the pistol.  During cleaning, note length of the spring.  When it looses 1/2" of its original length, it will be said to be out of spec, and will actually contribute to premature wear of the pistol.

This may sound finicky, but I carry in my shooters bag, different springs for my 1911's and choose the correct one for a certain load.  They don't cost that much and will lead to increased life of the pistol and enhanced function of it, too!